16' Lacrosse GM 3.6 VVT DI Oil thoughts

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
69
Location
Arlen Texas..... (Houston)
Hello yall!!!

Recently picked up a pre-owned lacrosse with 30k miles.
Important Info:
Vehicle History: Carfax had OCI as 7500 miles (Assuming it's accurate)
Goal: Keep car for +100k miles

I came to understand that these DI engines are quite hard on even the most robust oil. (from reading past threads on here, quite informative)
Think it was fuel dilution being a main concern, leading most users here to simply do more frequent OCI's.
I'm pretty sure this engine is the exact same one that is in the Impala, Traverse, XTS, pretty much most of GM v6's.

Anyways I'm thinking about running this setup & seeing how it goes
-4K mile OCI
-Penzoil Conventional Yellow Bottle 5w-30 (Easily available & $20/6 quarts)
-Fram Ultra oil filter
-Getting a BlackStone analysis done to see exactly where I'm at.

Wkcdhda.jpg




Any thoughts, concerns, comments, suggestions, ideas, random info is greatly appreciated
11.gif
 
Use a dexos1 oil to maintain the warranty. Using a full synthetic version, the best you can do is fighting the chain wear in these things by using Mobil1 Extended Performance 5w30 or Castrol Edge Extended Performance 5w30, and a Fram Ultra oil filter. Then let the OLM figure out exactly how far to go. Those oils are better than what the OLM expects to have in the sump, allowing you to follow the OLM precisely and still have a comfort margin.
 
Last edited:
DO NOT USE CONVENTIONAL OIL.

Car calls for a Dexos oil, these are at minimum a syn blend; most are full-syn.

I do agree with keeping changes short and not using the OLM.
 
Enjoy the car. My wife loves her 2016 LaCrosse.

I am currently using Castro magnatec 5W-30 (Dexos 1), and a AC Deloc PF63 filter. Never did oil analysis, so I can't say whether this is good or bad. It's certainly not causing any problems. I was using Mobil 1 prior to this last OCI. I change it with 25% left on the OLM, which usually ends up being 5-6k miles.

If you grab a jug at Walmart, don't forget the extra quart, as this car has a 6 quart capacity.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I do agree with keeping changes short and not using the OLM.

GM lowered the oil change interval back in 2011 on these. They have been aware of it for a long time now. The OLM has this information and is already programmed to be correct. Old problem at GM.
 
My grandparents had a 2010 LaCrosse that they had to get rid of at 170K due to a timing chain failure. All oil changes were done with M1 5W30 and religiously around 5K OCIs. Hopefully they have resolved these issues. I felt like that car never ran correctly. It always felt gutless. Although, their 2016 does as well until you are well into the throttle.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
DO NOT USE CONVENTIONAL OIL.

Car calls for a Dexos oil, these are at minimum a syn blend; most are full-syn.

I do agree with keeping changes short and not using the OLM.



+1

I would definitely reconsider using PYB and use a Dexos full synthetic of your choice.
 
Nice car. We've owned a couple of GM 3.6 V-6 engines. Use dexos approved full synthetic, you can get Magnatec for $18.00 5qt jug. I would NOT follow the OLM in this application. Run full synthetic oil : change it every 5k. : Fram ultra filter. Btw GM has manufactured numerous versions of this engine. Your V-6 is the LFX version, which is actually less prone to chain issues. But don't press your luck, stick with full synthetic Every 5k. Here's the breakdown on GM HF V-6 engines http://everything.explained.today/GM_High_Feature_engine/. Also, Your trans fluid should be easy to change on that car. 10 or 11mm bolt on bottom of trans. Piece of cake 🎂
 
There have been some stellar reports from Valvoline conventional in this engine if you scour the UOA section. That would be my pick for a conventional oil. For synthetic or a blend anything Dexos should be sufficient for 5k or whatever the OLM calls for. The UOA will shed more light when you get one.
 
my buddy has the 3.6 LFX in a 2013 Impala with 128,xxx miles. Despite me telling him about fuel dilution with this engine and to go no longer than a 4-5k oci, he waits til the OLM hits 0%. Ive been changing it lately with Supertech Dexos 5W30 and a fram ultra. He tells me "I'm going to trust what GM says and go by the OLM and not what you say". not my problem , I just do the oil changes, I know its done right and any problems he has after is for him to deal with, he agreed on that. He hasnt had any trouble with the engine despite the long oil changes.
 
Last edited:
I'd use a full synthetic to the OLM's recommendations, since they have been corrected to more properly account for the DI.
 
We bought a 2006 Lacrosse 3.8l about a month ago . It does not call for Dexos , so , dino oil and 3000 mile OCI ?

Do not know how much different there is between a 3.6l and a 3.8l .

I apologize is this amounts to hijacking the thread .

Thanks , :)
 
Beyond being hard on oil, with the GDI you should be concerned with deposits on the intake valve stems. PYB 5w-30 has a NOACK volatility of 14.4 with the spec showing 15 max, not a good choice for GDI. (source PQIA). For comparison PP shows 9.3, PPP shows 9.1, and QS shows 8.7, all DEXOS. Pennzoil Ultra 10W-30 reportedly has a NOACK under 5.0, seriously considering it for my 4.3 GDI.
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Beyond being hard on oil, with the GDI you should be concerned with deposits on the intake valve stems. PYB 5w-30 has a NOACK volatility of 14.4 with the spec showing 15 max, not a good choice for GDI. (source PQIA). For comparison PP shows 9.3, PPP shows 9.1, and QS shows 8.7, all DEXOS. Pennzoil Ultra 10W-30 reportedly has a NOACK under 5.0, seriously considering it for my 4.3 GDI.


14.4 NOACK is at least one reason (there may be others) that PYB cannot be a Dexos certified oil. I'm almost certain the upper limit for Dexos certification is 13%.

I for one appreciate ultra low NOACK numbers but I certainly don't base my decision around just the NOACK number. Personally I'd prefer a strong HTHS for grade with a reasonable NOACK than a low NOACK with a grade minimum HTHS.

Or just use RedLine and get ultra low NOACK and high for grade HTHS.
 
Thanks , :)

I am guessing our 2006 model 3.8l has the older multi port injection , into the intake runner .
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top