Under a CR-V's valve cover

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I removed the valve cover and checked the valve lash adjustment this morning on our 2008 CR-V. This is the 2.4L K24Z1 engine, and with right at 59,000 miles currently. Oil history: Valvoline white bottle from the dealer at intervals specified by the maintenance minder (about 7-8k miles each), from new until when I bought it with about 45,000 miles. When I bought it, I put in Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20, then Mobil 1 0W-20 at 50,000 miles, and Mobil 1 0W-20 again at 55,000 miles. So the oil you see in it is 4,000 mile old M1.

The camshaft lobes look great. You can see where the rollers roll on the lobes, but there's no real visible "wear" in terms of scarring, grooving, etc. The timing chain and tensioner guides also look like they're still new.

IMAG0373.jpg


IMAG0376.jpg


You can see how the 2-lobe version of VTEC works in this picture. The #1 cylinder (far left) is apparently on its intake stroke. The primary lobe (the big one) operates the right-hand intake valve and the secondary lobe (the skinny one) operates the left-hand intake valve. You can see the primary lobe has depressed its intake valve, but the intake valve under the secondary lobe doesn't appear to be open at all. In truth, it's cracked open slightly, but not hardly enough to even tell. Under 2,200 rpm, the two intake rocker arms are not connected, and the two intake valves operate independently. In essence, it operates like a 12-valve engine (1 intake and 2 exhaust valves). Once 2,200 rpm is reached, a pin within the primary intake rocker arm slides over and engages the secondary rocker arm, and both rocker arms operate off the primary (larger) cam lobe.

This promotes good port velocity at lower engine speeds to maximize torque in those conditions, and still allows for good mid- and high-speed operation with both intake valves operating off the "big" cam. You can also see the camshaft phaser on the intake camshaft just inside the timing chain. On this version of the K-series engine, the cam phaser can advance or retard the camshaft through 25 degrees of rotation in either direction. Some of the performance-oriented K-series engines have 45 or 50 degree phasers, but the economy versions have 25 degree phasers.

There is no phaser on the exhaust cam, and there is no VTEC on the exhaust cam. The exhaust rocker arm is shaped like a Y, and a single roller rides against a single cam lobe (for each cylinder), and the rocker arm depresses both exhaust valves. I assume this was done to reduce friction (only one lobe per pair of valves).

Insides look good for the miles and past oil history. My plan is to continue with 5,000 mile OCIs, but with PYB instead of a synthetic offering.

Larger picture versions here: Picasa
 
OMG where is all the sludge from using dino!!
grin.gif


Nice and clean. That engine will run forever on VWB/PYB while everything else falls apart around it.
 
That is one clean engine. Currently my son purchased a 2000 Lexus ES 300 with 160k on the clock. The oil change history is somewhat clouded but the "Sludge Monster" took over this engine. He dropped the oil pan and the sludge was hard and dry like pine bark. We have pics and have started the remediation process. After cleaning the pan and the oil pick up tube he has 17 psig at idle and 70 psig at 3k RPMs.
The engine is running smooth and we are hoping for the best. He has installed PYB 5w-30 SN/GF5 with a longer Purolator Classic oil filter with 8 oz of Seafoam in the crankcase.
 
Originally Posted By: BigBird57
That is one clean engine. Currently my son purchased a 2000 Lexus ES 300 with 160k on the clock. The oil change history is somewhat clouded but the "Sludge Monster" took over this engine. He dropped the oil pan and the sludge was hard and dry like pine bark. We have pics and have started the remediation process. After cleaning the pan and the oil pick up tube he has 17 psig at idle and 70 psig at 3k RPMs.
The engine is running smooth and we are hoping for the best. He has installed PYB 5w-30 SN/GF5 with a longer Purolator Classic oil filter with 8 oz of Seafoam in the crankcase.



Did he pull the valve covers yet?
 
Does Honda need to have the valves checked at such a low mileage?

I guess I need to check my lash (I think 150k is the number) but am afraid to open it up since its not leaking/seeping at all. Sounds the same as when I bought it and running perfect.

Someday....

Looks good for low miles.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: BigBird57
That is one clean engine. Currently my son purchased a 2000 Lexus ES 300 with 160k on the clock. The oil change history is somewhat clouded but the "Sludge Monster" took over this engine. He dropped the oil pan and the sludge was hard and dry like pine bark. We have pics and have started the remediation process. After cleaning the pan and the oil pick up tube he has 17 psig at idle and 70 psig at 3k RPMs.
The engine is running smooth and we are hoping for the best. He has installed PYB 5w-30 SN/GF5 with a longer Purolator Classic oil filter with 8 oz of Seafoam in the crankcase.



Did he pull the valve covers yet?


Yep...
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Congrats on clean engine, but this disassembly at this low mileage on a functioning unit is not really merited...


It is because with Honda's you have to periodically check the last adjustment on the valves. It is common to crack an engine like this at least especially if you're a car enthusiast (like most BITOG'ers)
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Congrats on clean engine, but this disassembly at this low mileage on a functioning unit is not really merited...


On this car (and most Honda's), it's actually a pretty good idea. Honda spec'd 30K valve adjustments for years. When they first went to 100K intervals, they ended up with a lot of burned valves... The K-series engines are supposedly better, but the one I checked @ 60K needed pretty much all of the exhaust valves adjusted. They had tightened up, so it's not like you're actually going to be able to hear that. I think 60K valve adjustments are a good idea on this engine.
 
Im at 70K on the same V. There was some valve noise with mobil one, switched to Amsoil no more tick. Great suv for sure. OLM is at 10K intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Valvoline dino seems to keep engines really clean.


The last three OCI were SYNTHETIC.....not dino....PP 5w20 and M-1 0w20.

Since we haven't seen the engine with just dino....we could conclude that.... SYNTHETIC seems to keep engines really clean.
 
Clean engines are normal. Especially at under 60k miles.

I note the discoloration/varnish on the oil separator and valve cover in the pics above it's not as clean as you think in there.
And more importantly, the #2 exhaust cam is worn/ grooved. Look at the reflection on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Valvoline dino seems to keep engines really clean.


The last three OCI were SYNTHETIC.....not dino....PP 5w20 and M-1 0w20.

Since we haven't seen the engine with just dino....we could conclude that.... SYNTHETIC seems to keep engines really clean.





**Oil history: Valvoline white bottle from the dealer at intervals specified by the maintenance minder (about 7-8k miles each), from new until when I bought it with about 45,000 miles*

^^From the op`s first post. Re-read it in it`s entirety please,unless you`re suggesting that 10,000 miles of pseudo-syn and syn cleaned up his severely sludged-ruined by VWB dino engine?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
And more importantly, the #2 exhaust cam is worn/ grooved. Look at the reflection on it.


There is no real "wear" on it, though it may appear so in the one photo. Unfortunately, low-light photography is only so good. I said this in the first post:

Quote:
You can see where the rollers roll on the lobes, but there's no real visible "wear" in terms of scarring, grooving, etc.


There really is no grooving there...nothing you can feel with your fingernail anyway. What you see is the track where the rocker arm roller follows the cam. But the lobe itself is not scarred or grooved. Here is a different angle on it, with different light. Also, what you're looking at is the direct peak of the lobe, so the wear pattern is slightly different there (as it is on all of them) where the roller tops the peak of the lobe.

IMAG0375.jpg


Opening the valve cover this early probably wasn't necessary, but Honda did used to specify 30k mile valve lash adjustments, and they all of a sudden jumped to 100k, so I figured it would be good to check. Plus, this engine does put out some "clackity" noises when colder, so I wanted to rule out valve adjustment. And it's definitely ruled out...all of the valves were within tolerance except for the #1 exhaust valves. They were slightly tight. The other exhaust valves were perfect (.011"). #2 and #3 intake valves were within spec at .009", but I wanted all the intake valves at .008", so I adjusted those.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Valvoline dino seems to keep engines really clean.


The last three OCI were SYNTHETIC.....not dino....PP 5w20 and M-1 0w20.

Since we haven't seen the engine with just dino....we could conclude that.... SYNTHETIC seems to keep engines really clean.





**Oil history: Valvoline white bottle from the dealer at intervals specified by the maintenance minder (about 7-8k miles each), from new until when I bought it with about 45,000 miles*

^^From the op`s first post. Re-read it in it`s entirety please,unless you`re suggesting that 10,000 miles of pseudo-syn and syn cleaned up his severely sludged-ruined by VWB dino engine?


Not suggesting that at all! But....it started with dino....but for the last 10K +/- has been with some of the best synthetics available (PP and M1) both of which have great reputations as oils that 'clean'. Based on those facts, that engine might have had issues with dino (especially at 7K to 8K OCI's)....but the use of high quality synthetics....might have cleaned it up. Just my opinion.
 
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