"Cleaning" differential

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never use any solvent that might be left behind in the new oil. wipe clean the magnet, wipe clean the lid before reassembly (if removal was needed). Some flush out with lighter oils. Most just drain, wipe, fill. Avoid chemical solvents.
 
I just did my Jeep's two diffs today. I Used the mighty vac to suck out the old oil. Cherokees don't have drains, only fill plugs. Taking off the cover is too time consuming for me, so I just do a drain and fill. I used Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic.
 
Nothing but a drain/refill or siphon/refill is needed.

Simple shorten your interval and use a better fluid if you fear that it is dirty.

The only diffs that I've seen that needed flushing were the ones that went 'swimming'.
 
I agree, don't use any chemical solvents to clean out the differential. Its not needed. If you want to flush it, fill with the same lube you plan to use, drive to it warms up completely (25 miles or so) and drain it out, add new. That is the safest method.
 
Ditto on the just drain/fill.

I wouldn`t want to introduce any solvents into the differential gears. When I did mine,I just unscrewed the drain plug (always unscrew the fill plug first,to make sure you can get it off before you drain the existing fluid),cleaned off the magnet that`s built onto the drain plug,put the plug back in,and then filled the differential with one of those hand pumps that screws on top of the gear oil bottle (I bought mine at Oreillys for about $4). Probably one of the easiest DIY`s on a car (a bit of dirty work,but very easy nonetheless).
 
Agreed on NOT using solvents when cleaning the diff- I'll take my chances with whatever was left in there and add new oil. Solvent left over will change the lubricating abilities of the oil
 
I almost never use any type of solvent on them. Usualy a lint free rag is all you need. If you have to clean it with solvent then coat all the part's you stick a finger on with moly EP grease before you reseal the rear end adn fill with geaqr lube. If I was wanting to clean on out I would put about 3 onces of Auto-Rx about 1500 miles before change it out today. In the old day's if it was really bad I would put 2-3 onces of engine flush,B12,Seafoam etc.. and drive it 500 miles and drop and refill. A little bit of solvent goes a long way in a rear end.
 
Speaking from at least the industrial sector, a solvent "flush" is a no-no. You can never get out all traces of solvent, which will cause the gear oil to foam.

There is also concern for the oil seals, they may be damaged and leak due to solvent exposure.

There are dedicated flushing agents one can safely use in combination with something like an R&O oil. The best way to remove sludge is to peel off the sheet metal cover and do it the old fashioned way, with many rags.

That option is not possible on something like a Toyota rear end, or a Ford 9 inch rear end, unless major disassembly is involved
 
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