G-05 vs. Dex-Cool

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Messages
2,724
Location
Herndon, Virginia
Speaking of the Dex-Cool, it's a curious thing. Pre-Bitog and the Dex-Cool lowdown, I used orange Prestone DexCool in my 92 Hyundai for 190,000 miles and over that time, I probably changed it 4 or five times in ten years. The first water pump that was in the car when I bought it had 180,000 miles on it (I bought the car with 88K on it, traded it with 288K). It never failed, but at the timing belt change around that time, they suggested changing it as a measure of prudence, which I agreed to. I drained the green syrup they put in it then and flushed and refilled with DexCool again (using tap water, no less, for me, pre-BITOG, distilled was for batteries). That pump stayed in the car til I traded it on this 05 Accent GT. From the time I bought the 92 Elantra, I changed it out to DexCool, and never had a problem for all those miles. I never heard of sludge issues until I started reading here (I never did change away from DexCool even after that). What struck me about the DexCool over the green stuff of old was how clear it was, how steady was the temp gauge, and no matter how hot out, no matter the temps outside, no matter what conditions, the temp never budged off the center of the gauge. My hoses lasted forever, the thermostat looked like new when I changed it, the DexCool just never gave me trouble.

When I traded for the AccentGT the green coolant from the factory was a thick, snotty green syrup that was clearly not holding together, even if the car was a year and a half sitting around until I bought it. The puke tank was scaled with silicone at the fluid line, too. So I changed it out, did the 7-gallon distilled water fill and drain to get the old syrup out and installed a 60/40 blend of distilled water and G-05. Now, a year and a half later, and 44,000 miles on the coolant, I had to have the water pump replaced for a leak. Needless to say, my G-05 is gone, and they installed some kind of fluorescent-green coolant in it. They over-filled the puke tank, I got a baster and a water glass to suck the extra half a pint out of there. It was sunny, and while the sun shined through the green, examining the glass up close, you can see the stuff suspended in it, real fine stuff. dissolved, suspended, nothing settled out overnight, but what's in there? Is that the silicate, phosphate, or what? When the car went back the next day for another CEL, I asked the guy what kind of coolant they put in it, he pointed to the big tank in the corner and shrugged. So they get theirs in bulk just like the GTX 10W30, except the delivery guy doesn't hang a label saying what's in there at delivery time.

So my question then becomes, DexCool vs. G-05. Did the G-05 cause the water pump failure, or just coincidence?

My other question is, what would you all suppose they put in the car for replacement coolant? Recycled? Phosphates? Low silicate? Plain old green with lots of silicate? The owner's manual says to install a "good quality ethylene-glycol antifreeze". THAT could be anything.

I dunno whether to drain the old syrup and replace it with DexCool (RayH has had excellent service in his Hyundai with ST's Dex-Cool clone over the years, as did I with Prestone's DexCool), should I replace the dealer stuff with G-05 again, or just leave what's in it be and forget about it? I can't get past the idea of the fine particle component to the green stuff the dealer put in the car after the repair causing trouble.
dunno.gif
 
I am no expert by any means but I will give you my personal experience with Dex-Cool. I purchased my 1996 explorer new. After owning it 2 years I switched to the Havoline brand of Dex-cool. I replaced it 5 years later with the same. My car is still on the original waterpump with 190k on it. Never had an issue. I also swithched 2 other cars over, but neither has nearly as many miles. No issues in any car
 
My opinion - change the Dex out every 3 years, keep a good cap on the radiator, and maintain the rest of the cooling system. It should be good to go.
 
G05 is light years better than the old conventional green snot of death that it replaced.

I have one car with Dex in it. I swapped it over when it had 30,000 miles on it and was one year old. It took a lot of flushing to get the old green out. I change it every year or two because I practice aggressive maintenance. It is now 10 years old and has 230,000 miles on it with no cooling system problems. I wouldn't dream of changing from something that works so well.

I have another car that came with G05. I also changed it out when it was a year old. Drain and refill only as I continued with G05. It is four years old and has less than 40,000 miles on it. G05 works great in it and I wouldn't dream of changing it either.
 
I like the theory of the G-05 but the experience of water pump replacement on a new car at only 43K on G-05 makes me nervous to go back to it. Probably just coincidence, but who knows?

There are no absolutes with this coolant stuff, on a lot of levels, it's as complicated as oil with the varying ramifications.
 
For what it's worth, my 2001 Chrysler uses G-05 (Mopar factory equivalent); I replaced it all last year for the first time. Approaching 198K on the original water pump.
 
Honda states that any silicated coolant will destroy the seal on their water pumps, and my dad had a 1995 Accord that had that happen, because he did his own coolant change with what he thought was the same as Honda's stuff.

I don't know if Hyundai has the same type of coolant as Honda, but it is dyed green, and nobody ever said what additives it contained.
 
I used Dexcool (Texaco Havoline) in both my old 1987 Honda Accord and my 95 Ford Ranger 2.3. Both had zero problems. Flushed out all the old stuff. Made sure all the air was out and checked the level once and while.

The Honda went to 305k (Mobil1 5W-30 & Purolator PureOnes) and then I sold it due to rust.

The Ford I still have, but the water pump started leaking not internally, but from the tensioner going and killing the bearing at 100k. I switched to Peak global formula after hearing about the seal issues. No problems at 150k.

I think Dexcool works great, as long you have no air to cause cavitation.
 
How many years did you keep the dexcool in? Most of the cars I see with dexcool issues happen when the owner really does keep the stuff in for 5 years.
 
From what I know after my Caprice radiator fiasco...Dex-Cool only causes problems when:

1. It is mixed with another non-Dex Cool coolant.

2. Air gets into the system.

3. Its put into a model year that was never meant to use Dex Cool. (This goes for vehicles that have brass copper heater core and radiators.)

Feel free to add more if necessary....
 
I've had Peak Long Life in my 1988 Mustang 5.0 since Dec 2005 with no problems.

Peak Long Life is a non-licensed "clone" of Dexcool, as far as I can determine. It contains 2EHA, which is the main ingredient that makes Dexcool, Dexcool. It is also a non-silicated coolant, another attribute of Dexcool.

Incidentally..I believe this Mustang has the original heater core..I sure haven't replaced it in the almost 70,000 miles I've owned it. The radiator rotted out (long before I used Peak Long Life) due to external corrosion, the fins were literally crumbling to dust.
 
Hi

Dex is ok ( zero tolerance for air) ..except for the plastic gaskets issue / 2-eha.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top