Which oil viscosity for my rebuilt engine?

[Glockycharms]

I am having an ATK engine (22 RE) installed in my toyota 4x4 truck and wanted to know what viscocity to use?

A call to the company only revealed to me to use whatever the manufacturer would have stated?

The original engine lasted almost 17 years (165,000)and believe it or not the engine basically fell apart?

It started making an awful noise and there was metal shavings in the oil so i decided to go with a rebuilt engine.

I changed the oil and filter and treated it good but oh well i guess?

I may change over to synthetic on it once it is broken in, the truck is used to go from point a to point b and is not used offroad or for pulling.

 

[mikeg5]

thats odd the yota did that.. very very very odd.. most yotas use 5w30 or 10w30.. i would do either in dino (penzoil or gtx) for the "break in" period and use whatever you want from there after.

 

[blackdiamond]

I'm running a 100% rebuilt 22RE in my 1989 4Runner and I ran 5w-30 Mobil Clean 5000 for the first 1,000 miles, then ran 5w-30 Castrol Syntec Blend for the next 1,000 miles and am now running 10w-30 Pennzoil Platinum. I think you can run anything in the engine without doing any harm. I chose 10w-30 over 5w-30 because it is more stable to shear and the Pennzoil Platinum because it comes highely recommended and seems to run really smooth. My 4Runner is my daily driver, but since I take the bus to work mileage is limited, so I wanted the added protection of the synthetic and the cost difference is minimal since I will only have to do 1 or 2 oil changes per year.

 

[blackdiamond]

p.s. I am running an Amsoil Eao oil filter that I plan to change once a year minimum. I will be lucky to run a full 3,000 miles in a years time so a one year OCI is good option.

 

[Glockycharms]

I guess the only bad thing i can say is that i have a bunch of oil i bought for the truck when it was burning oil and it is 20w50 dino mostly so i guess i willl use it up first.

I can probably exchange the 20w50 dino for some 10w30 dino till i use it up.

Did i mention i have about 4-5 cases of dino oil i got at a good price?

Maybe it will be a while till i change over to synthetic then?

 

[GMGuy]

If ATK is saying use the manufacturers recommened viscosity, go with that. If they built them loose and needed heavier oil I'd hope they would tell you so.

Alex.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I would run a good 15W40 like Delo 400,Delvac,or Rotella for the first 5000-10,000 miles.After that I would run a 5W40 like Rotella-T year round and change it every 6 months. The only reason for not useing the 5W40 right off the bat is becuase it cost's a little more and you normaly do the first oil changes preety soon like 500 miles then 1500 miles then 3000 miles OCI until you are ready to go to a more normal OCI.No sense tossing good oil away eraly just becuase the engine is breaking in.

When I lived in Gerogia we owned a 1986 4Runner with 22RE a two wheel drive Toyota Hilux pickupwith 22RE and a 4X4 Toyota Hilux DX SR5 V6 pickup truck.We ran Castrol GTX 20W50 in them year round until we went over to M1 15W50 year round in them. The 1986 4Runner was just sold a little more then a year ago and is still going strong. To date their have 9 Toyota Pickup trucks in my imediate family that were bought new and never had any problems. So I feel preety safe with my recomendations. You could run 15W40 year round if you wanted to as well but the 5W40 would save you a little gas money and would extend the drain performance as well if you wanted to.

 

[JohnBrowning]

For all those people that have not owned 9 or more Toyota pickups the "Go with what the factory recomends" recomendation is not going to help him much. Toyota for almost all of the 22RE's life cycle placed an SAE Temp. Viscosity Chart in the owners manual. It gives the owner freedom to use 5W30 up to 20W50 some of them also included SAE 40,50 and 60 in their chart's. The only caution for many years was not to run 5W30 if the vechile did a lot of high speed driveing (55MPH or faster)or if the tepature's were consistently above I think 0°F or maybe it was 32°F. The 22RE does not like thin dino 5W30. These engine's do best on thicker viscosity oil's then what is on most shelf's. If you do decide to go with a 30wt. it had better be fairly thick or an incrediably well built synthetic like Redline or Amsoil S3K. The 22RE will consume way too much oil if a thin 30Wt. is put in it and driven on the HWY or at high power levels and low speed levels.So if you decide to try a 30Wt. make it Rotella 10W30, Schaffer's 10W30, Valvolin SAE30,Havoline 30HD etc......

P.S. i will admit though that today's 5W30's are much better then they were when I lived down south. I just cannot imagine a rebuilt 22RE likeing them though no the less!

 

[JohnBrowning]

I also wanted to add that I highly recomend you use only Geniune Toyota airfilter, cap and rotor and fuel filter on the truck everything else is fair game!

 

[Max_Wander]

for that engine I'd run a 15w40 or 10w30. I've heard those engines have chain problems

 

[Merkava_4]

I'd break it in on Valvoline SAE 30 for the first 1000 miles.

 

[Chris142]

I bet that the timing chain runners broke and the chain was eating into the timing cover. Very common and an Easy fix.

I always use thin like 5w-30 for the 1st hour or so. I feel that the oil needs to pump fast to the places it needs to go and that thin oil is better than no oil.

Drain it after the 1st hour and put in 10/15w40.

 

[Mokanic]

Quote:

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I am having an ATK engine (22 RE) installed in my toyota 4x4 truck and wanted to know what viscocity to use?

A call to the company only revealed to me to use whatever the manufacturer would have stated?

The original engine lasted almost 17 years (165,000)and believe it or not the engine basically fell apart?

It started making an awful noise and there was metal shavings in the oil so i decided to go with a rebuilt engine.

I changed the oil and filter and treated it good but oh well i guess?

I may change over to synthetic on it once it is broken in, the truck is used to go from point a to point b and is not used offroad or for pulling.

---

You bought an ATK engine and all you needed was a timing chain in the original engine. The metal you saw was where the worn chain was rubbing against the aluminium chain cover. 22R engines did not have chain issues as long as the oil services and a good filter was installed. Most single-row chain models would run 150-200K on the factory chain. My truck with the factory double-row chain has never needed replacement.
Mickey-Mouse orange oil filters and neglecting to keep the oil changed properly would kill them very prematurely. That's true for any chain that relies on oil pressure to keep tension on the chain.
Anyway, ATK rebuilds alot of engines and i've dealt with them alot for the sake of my customers. Make certain you keep all receipts for oil&filters and other maintenance. They will fight a warranty claim in a heart-beat looking for any excuse to reject your claim. I have spent hours on the phone with some "expert" of theirs that was trying to fight the claim and they hadn't even sent a rep out to look at the engine in question. ATK used to be the finest reman company around on Japanese engines but when they shipped their whole operation from Japan to Mexico it went in the toilet.
If their rebuild is as it should be your 22R should run most any 5W30 or 10W30 without any problems at all. Keep all your receipts of all the service work you perform and use a top quality filter on it. Hopefully, you will not have to deal with ATK on any issues.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

Let's see you are in Miami...I would think you could get away with Valvoline or any brand name straight 30w all year long...what is the coldest temp this engine will see 55 degrees...

Brad Penn also makes a special break in oil for rebuilt and new engines...might be worth a look...
I would think you could get away with running the 20w50 you have if you can't trade it for 30w or 10w30...Also read Mokanics post a couple times until it sinks in...You better keep reciepts for everything...to show you maintained this engine...And if what John Browning said is true about Toyota oil recommendations in the manual I would copy this and study it...if it says you can use 30w or 20w50 then go for it...also keep it to show ATK why you used the oil visc you did if they ever question your actions...You will probably have no problems at all if you maintain the fabulous little 22R...

 

[JohnBrowning]

I have an uncle that has around 500,000 miles on his 1987 Toyota 4X4. I gave him a timeing chain set from with followers,sprocket's and chain etc....from my personel stash of 22RE part's.He still has not replaced it. The only think that has had to be done to his that I would consider major is about 2 year's ago he had to have a new main bearing pressed onto the mainshaftof his 5 SPD. The vechile is all origanal under the hood. OEM clutch,pressure plate,starter,water pump, rad houses etc... He did have to replace his alternator also with one from my private stash of 222RE part's. We just put new rear shoe's on it and front pads'. My cousin was driveing it and it barley stoped so wepulled it in the pole barn for a look see. The origanal lining were as thin a sheet of wax paper or parchment paper.This has been my uncles main work truck he is a Union Carpenter. The body looks awful and the box is a hand built wooden on to replace the old rusty OEM box. The think has just kept going and going. He use's the cheapest oil he can find on sale from Valoline to AC/Delco and he normaly buy's up to whatever case limit they have. So he has a little bit of each brand out their. It is usualy 10W30. Everything other then his Quad's get's 10W30 the Pontiac,Z71,Toyota,S-10,Camro,Duster,Road Runner,Challenger and all the lawn and garden equipment.

 

[Crusader]

My 22r is the original engine never been overhauled. I ran Mobil 1 15w-50 few years ago and it was noticeably more sluggish - at around 110,000 miles. I would not run an upper viscosity beyond 40wt. in a 22r. I'm currently running Shell Rotella 5w-40 now and that is working fine. Personally I'd break it in with 5w-30 winter or 10w-30 if you live in a warmer climate.

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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Mickey-Mouse orange oil filters and neglecting to keep the oil changed properly would kill them very prematurely. That's true for any chain that relies on oil pressure to keep tension on the chain.

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That sums it up quite nicely!

 

[Steelhead]

any of the brand name on sale 15w40 HDEOs year around in that Florida Yota PU that will see 70 mph+ freeway runs in the heat

it probably turns and burns at 3200 rpm+ on the freeway at 70 mph with the high gear ratio Yota diffs. not the place for weak 5w30s to be sheared into oblivion in an expensive rebuild

 

[Glockycharms]

Thanks for the suggestions folks i will hopefully be driving by next week.

I will change the oil plenty during the break in and i plan on using bigger oil filters from Wix which is the same oil filter used on the 302 Ford engines.