10W30 in a TWO stroke?!

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I sent an email to a bikcycle moped converting kit manufacturing company, because of a question regarding their instructions. Here is the reply

"Yes, the engine included with the package is a 2 stroke unit. It
requires a combination and mixture of regular oil and unleaded gas with
a ratio of 16:1 gas to oil for the first month or first 500Km of riding,
and 20:1 once the engine has been broken in. Regular 10w30 oil can be
used and mixed with the gas, or 2 stroke oil can also be used with the
engine.

If you do have any further questions, please feel free to get in touch
Regards,

Rob"

crazy.gif
Am I dumb and don't know that motor oil can be mixed with gas, or is there something really weird going on here?
 
Sure you can use 10w30 in place of 2 stroke oil. Be prepared for more smoke and build up on the exhaust port. In short it's not such a great idea when two stroke oil is readily available. Furthermore I would recommend Mobil 1 Racing 2T if you can find it.
 
NO!! Don't do it. I have alot of 2 stroke exp. 2 stroke oil is designed to burn and designed to be mixed in gas.
 
When I was a kid we used we used 1qt of 40w to 5gal in our bikes, it worked but fouled plugs, smoked, drooled oil out the pipe etc. Today with all the good 2 cycle oils there is no reason to use motor oil.

There is plenty lost in translations on those chinese engine manuals, and just plain not knowing with the distributors. Bud has Lifan motorcycle, 4stroke, and the manual has you pulling the head off every so many miles to de-carbon the piston. A copy from their 2 stroke bike manual,using 10w30, I suspect. Whoever translated the manaul didn't know the difference, LOL. They cast CDI on the cam cover and OHC on the timing cover, dumb. And when you take the head cover off you find its a OHV motor with cam in block.
 
I agree with all prior posts, personally I would use some sort of 2 cycle oil in it but it probably doesn't matter if it's TC or TC-W3.
I don't mean this to be negative, but it's a 3rd world engine designed for the 3rd world. They use whatever they have on hand because that's all they can get. At 20:1 I suspect just about anything would prevent a lubrication failure. Pollution is not a high priority where these engines are made and high maintenance is a way of life when scooters live in the rain and are beaten down dirt paths.

With a little "Up-Town" living that engine may last forever.
 
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Pablo, what exactly are you saying?




Off Topic.... He is talking about Chinese made junk. I have to say I agree with his view, but unfortunately you have to buy at least some of their junk or do without on certain items.
 
recomending a 4 stroke engine oil for a 2 stroke went out with the 70's. i had a 74 honda 2 stroke street bike that said to use 10w40 as a substitute for 2 stroke oil for the oil injection.

i havent seen anyone actually recomend engine oil for a 2 stroke in a long time.
 
2 stroke engines that specifically recommend engine oil in heavy ratios usually have bronze bushes for main bearings - Seagull outboards and early Johnson Iron horse.That's got to be a real cheap engine if it has bronze bushes.I'd go for a translation hiccup.
 
hey i had an old 12:1 seagull. is that why it wanted to be run so rich? i figured it was because of junk oils and the 2 stroke being in its infancy back then. but bronze bearings makes more sence.
 
What is the problem with bronze bearings, wear to easily?
They are easy enough to replace..
 
You probably need to tear the engine all the way down and split the case to replace them. Not that simple, especially if gaskets and parts aren't available...
 
it has a side plate that un bolts
gives direct access to the beating/crankshaft area
 
Quote:


Quote:


Pablo, what exactly are you saying?




Off Topic.... He is talking about Chinese made junk. I have to say I agree with his view, but unfortunately you have to buy at least some of their junk or do without on certain items.




Exactry. Sorry for disrupting a good thread.

As stated, use a good 2-stroke oil and don't sweat it.
 
Quote:


it has a side plate that un bolts
gives direct access to the beating/crankshaft area




That would make it easier provided you can pull the bearing with the engine assembled. I can't see it as a big worry though. When you do get to that point there will be plenty of other things that need replaced at the same time.

Using a good 2 cycle oil it'll probably last a while. And if the whole thing ends up worn out so what. It's a toy, not your primary means of transportation...
 
Quote:


it has a side plate that un bolts
gives direct access to the beating/crankshaft area




you still have to pull the cylinder so you can remove the piston and rod. you cant replace a bronze rod bearing while its on the crank because it needs to be pressed out. and this is assuming its got one of those cheapo single sided cranks. its its a normal double ended crank then you would have to seperate the crank in half, pull the rod, press the bearing. replace the rod, then take the crank to a machine shop to have it aligned.
 
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