hi, i was looking for a little help picking out a good oil and filter combo for my 2002 silverado. it has the 6.0 and 45,000 miles on it. i do a lot of interstate driving for long trips at high speed. and thisthing has 4.10 gears. it may run 3000rpm for 400 miles at a time. i just got rid of a 2000 with the 5.3 and it developed piston slap after a long trip out west. it was always serviced with penz 5w30 and ac delco filter.every 3000 miles. it went from never making a noise to slapping for 2 minutes in 1 day! i feel a 90mile per hour trip across south dakota did it in. i stareted it the next morning and it sounded like i had no oil in it. but oil was full. and it made noise every morning from there on. anyway in the 02 i was thinking of the GC and a k&n oil filter.do you think the 0w30 is ok. it says 5w30 in the ownwers manual. and i don't know what is in it now, but it does not have piston slap or any other noises.(yet). and yes i have a store that has the real GC in my area.
oil and filter for silverado 2500hd 6.0 ?
- Thread starter eddyzima
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You have several choices.
Start out with something like GC 0w-30 or M1 0w-40 and see how it does (consumption, sound, feel, etc...)
M1 15w-50 also works very well in these GM engines and as long as it doesn't get too cold in your area...
As long as you don't mind paying a little more for the K&N, it'd be a great filter to use.
Start out with something like GC 0w-30 or M1 0w-40 and see how it does (consumption, sound, feel, etc...)
M1 15w-50 also works very well in these GM engines and as long as it doesn't get too cold in your area...
As long as you don't mind paying a little more for the K&N, it'd be a great filter to use.
e-z-,
If you can find it, I think SLX (GC) will suit you fine in PA. I think the viscosity will be to the liking of your engine and I think it will hold up really well. I have punished it pretty hard in a twin turbo motor in high temps and long high speed runs in demanding terrain. I cannot see why you wouldn't be happy with it unless there is something about your engine that some of the other guys know about that would discount what I am telling you. I always like to caveat by talking about the exceptions, not because I don't believe in any oil I recommend but because I take seriously giving someone advice about what to put in an expensive motor.
is the 0w30 weight ok? how does it compare to 0w40 m1? i called castrol about the gc and they are no help at all. the lady i talked to almost would not admit it was different than regular syntec.i suspect it is really a bp product. has anyone ever seen the bp viscus 5000? is it green? does it have the a3 rating?
yes, i found out to late. i put gc and a k&n filter on it and it sounds like a diesel! i have valve train noise at idle! even after i drive it. this is not the oil for this truck for sure. any other suggestions?
it is true! i have good oil pressure but my lifters just pitter patter. i went through the drive through at mc d's and was embarresed. i don't now whats going on but i don't like it. my friend put mobil 1 5-30 in his 6.0 gm truck with simmiler resaults. but not as noisey as mine. i just went to get another filter now what oil?
i just bought this truck. the dealer serviced it with what ever they use? i drove 1500 miles with out a noise. not in morning or after warm up or anything. changed the oil and drove 105 miles today and it is making lifter niose at idle. no piston slap or anything like that. and not 1 lifter. 16 of them. this oil and this truck do not mix. i am going after some 10w30 chevron and i will report back. i have found another post were someone else had similer resaults in a silverado truck with a 5.3.
e-z,
In my lifetime, I've learned never to say never...BUT...stop and think...what would it be about the SLX that would all of a sudden cause this noise? Magical elixer that it is
what possible physical or chemical properties would it have that would make it cause your engine to behave in the way you are describing ALL OF A SUDDEN. In ALLLLLLLLL my years of driving and association with automobiles and in ALLLLLLLLL my years of checking out motor oils in more detail than the majority of the rest of the citizens of some large cities combined, I have never heard of a DOCUMENTED AND TECHNICALLY substantiated case of an engine doing this in response to a change of name brand oil. Something else is going on.
In my lifetime, I've learned never to say never...BUT...stop and think...what would it be about the SLX that would all of a sudden cause this noise? Magical elixer that it is
I just went 10,733 miles on my OCI with Mobil 1 15/50 and it held up great in my 4.8 Silverado. Some of the board members have seen good results with a 10/30 + 15/50 mix of Mobil 1.That is what I`m using on this OCI. What everyone has said about the L.S.1 motors liking it a little heavier seems to be true.
just got 10w30 casrol start up and another k&n oil filter installed. drove for aprox 5 miles and all lifter noise is gone. my neighbor is a machanic and he thinks these engines have trouble keeping the thinner synthetic in the lifters when at idle for any period of time. as far as the deposits on the pistons. yo have read to many gm tsbs. my 2000 silverado got piston slap at about 60,000 miles and became severe at 75,000 miles. gm tried to tell me it was carbon. carbon may cause light piston slap. but not the severe stuff i developed. they tried to decarbon my engine twice. it did no good at all. and i used gallons of techtron. and i put techtron in this truck the day i fueled it up. i think if you whant to run light weight sythetic in a 6.0 you may need to put pipe cleaners in the push rods to keep the oil in the lifters longer, like racers used to do in the small blocks. i called my boss, he has a 2003 3500 dump truck with the same 6.0. he states that every time he gets the oil changed(penz. 5w30) he has light ticking in the engine after warm up at idle for the fist 300 to 500 miles. and then it goes away until his next oil change. very wierd indeed. i wished i could run a synthetic and not have this problem. as i feel i could make my trucks engine live longer and run cleaner. i maybe should have uses the delvac 5-40? i am just a little scared off the diesel oil in a gas engine. years ago when 15-40 first became the stuff for the big diesels there were a lot of gas engine trucks with engine bearing falure.
I`m glad I didn`t try the GC,would really hate to dump out 6 quarts of expensive oil,OUCH!
Patman
Staff member
But it's not thinner. The viscosity of GC 0w30 at 40C is actually a bit thicker than most 10w30 oils, so in the summertime that oil is not any thinner on startup. And it's viscosity at 100C puts it at almost a 40 weight oil so it's actually thicker than most 10w30s at operating temperature too.
People keep thinking of GC as being a thin oil, but it's not. It is rated as a 0w oil simply because it flows incredibly well in extreme cold.
yes the oil is thiker at temp, but this truck has a big oil cooler. and it only did it when warm af idle for about 2to3 minutes.i think that when the oil is not real hot it is not nearly as thik as most 5 or 10w30's. also on the carbon-piston slap deal with my old truck thinner oil seamed to help somewhat. also i have seen 2 of the 5.3 slappers torn down at ben bisset chevy in mercer pa. and they both had oversized and eg or bell shaped cylinders and wear on the piston skirts. i don't think carbon would have been an issue if these engines would have had better tolerences. anybody that has a piston slapper will tell you its only 1 or 2 cylinders. and carbon should be close to equal in all cylinders.
WWW. Pistonslap.Com has the whole ugly story on it.
Here is my take on the GM 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 liter Vortec engine noise:
If the diesel style "clatter" or "rattle" noise is present at all times, then it is indeed a piston slap issue & you probably should notify GM & follow the advice at the website.
Cold start knock is from combustion chamber deposits and the clatter noise goes away as the engine warms up & the deposits soften due to higher temperatures.
My experience is that if these deposits are formed using dino oil, switching to synthetic only makes the noise louder. My speculation is that just as the rubber compounds in engine seals react differently to PAO synthetic oil than dino oil, so due the deposits that are initially formed in the presence of dino oil.
The quick fix for the cold start knock is a Motorvac or similar treatment offered by your local GM dealer.
A Motorvac treatment cleared up my 5.3L Vortec cold start noise problems. It now starts & runs very quietly on a 50/50 blend of 10W-30/10W-40 dino oil.
If the diesel style "clatter" or "rattle" noise is present at all times, then it is indeed a piston slap issue & you probably should notify GM & follow the advice at the website.
Cold start knock is from combustion chamber deposits and the clatter noise goes away as the engine warms up & the deposits soften due to higher temperatures.
My experience is that if these deposits are formed using dino oil, switching to synthetic only makes the noise louder. My speculation is that just as the rubber compounds in engine seals react differently to PAO synthetic oil than dino oil, so due the deposits that are initially formed in the presence of dino oil.
The quick fix for the cold start knock is a Motorvac or similar treatment offered by your local GM dealer.
A Motorvac treatment cleared up my 5.3L Vortec cold start noise problems. It now starts & runs very quietly on a 50/50 blend of 10W-30/10W-40 dino oil.
I have the 5.3L Vortec in my 99 Silverado, 88k miles, and am happy with both the truck & engine.
The biggest issue for me is combustion chamber deposits generated from the use of reformulated gasoline without adequate detergent adds. These deposits cause the cold start knocking noise.
GM changed the engine design sometime in 2002 to deal with the piston slap/cold start knock issues.
A good dino oil choice for this engine is 10W-30 Chevron, Havoline, Pennzoil, etc. My experience is that if the engine noise problem is present, heavier viscosities are not a cure and switching from dino to synthetic will only make it worse.
The real solution is to get the deposits cleaned & use Techron or Fuel Power applications to keep it clean.
The biggest issue for me is combustion chamber deposits generated from the use of reformulated gasoline without adequate detergent adds. These deposits cause the cold start knocking noise.
GM changed the engine design sometime in 2002 to deal with the piston slap/cold start knock issues.
A good dino oil choice for this engine is 10W-30 Chevron, Havoline, Pennzoil, etc. My experience is that if the engine noise problem is present, heavier viscosities are not a cure and switching from dino to synthetic will only make it worse.
The real solution is to get the deposits cleaned & use Techron or Fuel Power applications to keep it clean.
I have the 2003 Chevy 1500HD with the 6.0
I am using M1 5w30 with acdelco ultragold UPF-44
I do get about 20-30 seconds of "piston slap" on cold start up, but afterthat, no more noise.
I am using M1 5w30 with acdelco ultragold UPF-44
I do get about 20-30 seconds of "piston slap" on cold start up, but afterthat, no more noise.
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