Oil Drain bolt - too tight! help!

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I think I stripped the drain bolt which is so @#!@*& tight. Any ideas? Hope I didnt screw it up so bad that no one can take it out. Then I'm screwed.

Any ideas as to what to spray (WD40?) and how to remove it. Or should I just bite the bullet and take it to a shop. I'm thinking once they have it out, I'll install a fumoto valve. Anyone knows what fumotovalve/adapter is needed for 2007 mitsubishi outlander?
 
Some penetrating spray would work better than WD40.

Do you still have enough bolt left for a six-point socket? If so, get a breaker bar on there (or a long pipe + lifetime warranty ratchet) and see if you can't get it off.

If you can't get a socket on, even after a little grinding, grab the biggest vice grip you can find, clamp it on tight, and one thing I've done in the past is to use a small hydraulic jack to push up on the handle to rotate the bolt.
 
I don't think that spraying a bolt thats soaking in oil on the other side will accomplish anything.

I 2nd the good pair of Vicegrips and not the Harbor Freight ones that twist and bend. Or a good pipewrench.

Another option is Iffy lube or another place that does oil changes. They see this alot and are set up to deal with it plus being able to easily access the underside of the car is 1/2 the battle.
 
There's a tool called a bolt remover that could work. It's basically a socket with some sort of reverse threading that digs into the rounded off bolt head as you turn it. Sears sells them in sets.

And yes, try some actual penetrating lubricant (liquid wrench, etc) and get a long wrench. An el cheapo 2', 1/2" drive breaker bar is a great tool to have.

jeff
 
Any of the mentioned methods should work. Bolt-outs like those from Sears work pretty good. The pipe wrench will probably work. Get a replacement plug or the fumoto first. What kind of wrench were you using? With the right size SAE or metric 6pt wrench on a 6pt bolt it should be nearly impossible to round it off.

If you do any offroading, quick drain devices such as fumoto are not suggsted.
 
If you don't get the valve, as least have a replacement bolt handy. Auto parts store might have one, but the dealer certainly should.
BTDT; not overtight, but bunged up hex, new bolt was cheap and in stock, it even had a magnet.
 
Went to E-Z Lube. Hate that place with all my guts. But they got it done and had a replacement bolt too. But the size on the head changed with replacement. My brand new ratchet wrench wont work anymore on the new bolt. Oh well.. I'll keep it and buy the original size one from dealership.


Thanks all for your help. I've learned one or two new things today. DIY is not as easy as it sounds.
 
I don't think you ever stop learning those little DIY tricks.

It'd be a good idea to go to Canadian Tire and pick up some Releaseall or PB Blaster - stuck bolts are going to be a fairly common occurance when you really get into DIY. NLS Fluid Film lubes better than the usual penetrants, but doesn't penetrate as well (and it's mucho expensive); I keep a can of that along with Releaseall in the garage.
 
Seth,

As a auto service professional, can't help but find selfrighteous diy'ers humorous when they step on their d-i- c-k !
laugh.gif


Srtipped dran plug removal in order of personal preference after 30+ years;
1. Spline type socket as sold by SnapOn and Erwin(somebody called Sears version "Bolt Out", no personal experience, but I'm sure it's the same thing.

2. Undersized 6pt socket, if original size is 15mm DRIVE on a 9/16, original is 3/4 Drive on a 18mm, etc.

3. Small semi-sharp cold chisel to hammer into lip of drainplug in ccw direction till it breaks loose (not for the faint of heart),,,LOVE watching customers turn green while watching me do this!!!!!!!

4. Dead last, a pair of visegrips (AKA Mr. Goodpliers). Usually if it's too tight for correct wrench size, all grips are gonna do is round it down another size or two. If you must use v. grips, at least tap sharply with a small hammer instead of attempting hand pressure to loosen.

Spraying any product on a drainplug (with the possible exception of a super coolant to cause thermal shrinkage) is just about the silliest thing I've ever heard! Threads are SATURATED in oil, just trying to get out! Only thing keeping it in is the gasket on drain plug. Overtightened plug has either threads seized or gasket seized NO amount of PB Blaster (one of the finest products in the world when used in context) is gonna do squat.

Bob
 
A penetrant won't help if the threads are seized, but when the gasket's seized, any loss of friction will help. Motor oil won't penetrate like PB Blaster or a similar product. I've used Releaseall + vice grip + hydraulic jack before on the Escort, where the drain bolt is right in front of the transmission crossmember and the only thing I could get on was a crow's foot w/ breaker bar - which stripped it. Just using the vice grips only rounded it down more, but it came off easily after two hours of Releaseall.

I haven't seen the "Bolt-Outs" this side of the border; in fact I didn't even know of their existence other than the "bolt extractor" drill bits, which is why I didn't present them as a solution.
 
three raps on a hand impact wrench and it'll be out no problem....did it tonight on a seized caliper nipple.
 
Seth said: "Went to E-Z Lube. Hate that place with all my guts. But they got it done and had a replacement bolt too. But the size on the head changed with replacement."

Could happen with a factory replacement too. A while back on my old '97 Escort a shop screwed up with a hydraulic jack and knocked a hole in the oil pan. The old drain plug had a 15 mm hex, and as Squishy notes, a crossmember is right behind it, requiring you to use a conventional wrench or a GearWrench (ratchet built into the box end). The replacement pan was new from Ford, as the shop could not find a local salvage unit, and the new drain plug included with the new pan had a 13 mm hex. Needless to say, it was a bit of a surprise when I got under the car for the first time after replacement to change oil with my 15 mm GearWrench in my hand. Did I mention that I hate crawling under vehicles?
smile.gif
 
Quote:


forget the wd-40..

get a can of PB blaster!!! it kicks butt! and will loosen anything!




if that's the route we're going, Aero-Kroil by www.kanolabs.com

initial can may seem expensive, but i've received several coupons that put it at about 50% off....so i keep buying LOL (guess that's the idea)
 
Have a new one handy.
Use a 6 point FLANK DRIVE socket.
If it's really rounded, hammer on a smaller size, or file it a bit for the smaller size to be able to be hammered on.
 
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