try 2 quarts of BIO Diesel for 1,000 and LOOK again
bruce
bruce
3 ARX cycles, didn't do much, bummer..
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ment to say 1/2 quart
sorry
sorry
With this engine try the pre-Auto-RX treatment. Dump an entire bottle of Nutrea 131 and fresh oil and filter in the engine and drive it for 800-1200 miles and repeat. In this engine do not bother with the 1 once per quart of N131 use the entire bottle. It will not hurt anything Bob ran an entire bottle of N131 for 10,000 miles on dino Schaffers oil in his Escort and it was fine.
Does your engine run decent temperature? For my current clean I have half the radiator blocked off with a pizza box and the results so far halfway into this clean are much better.
For about $100 into this, you don’t seem too worried that not much is happening. Maybe you should buy about 10 bottles of ARX, pour it in, then top off with a dino of your choice and see what happens. I would try to plug some drain holes on the head and soak the thing in kerosene for a day, then go to work with an oversized toothbrush.
Great results ?? Those are NO results. C'mon, call a spade a spade.
The lack of results in those pictures fall a long way short of the product claims. This mess is exactly what the product is targeted for, except the mess is still there.
Why this stuff works well on some engines and seems to fail on others is a mystery to me.
I've never been afraid to throw some money at something if I have a chance to learn something and share what I have learned. I can replace 3 parts for the price of having a shop diagnose and replace 1 part, I get 3 new parts instead of 1 out of the deal, and learn how to install all 3. I always try to look at the positive. We can say, from my experience, that if you come across a sludged 1.3L SOHC swift/metro, that ARX will probably not clean it up real well. I think ARX probably works better in cars that work the oil harder. The 1.3L in this car probably had the factory fill in for 50,000 miles, and probably didn't even start making sludge out of it till ~25-30k. From what I have read, these engines are easy on oil, and nobody had ever heard of one with sludge until mine comes along, suggesting that even with really poor oil change practices, these engines would ordinarily stay clean.
I've got lots of ideas to try. for 1, I would really like to try some synthetic 0W20 in it. I think thin oil would give more splash and flow up top, worth a try IMO, I'd also like to try the Nuetra, and maybe just grab a few other random additives from the snake oil section and give em a whirl.
What's the latest on the "new" Rislone, do anything? Doesn't cost more than buying a half decent qt of oil anyways, might be worth a try eh? Has anyone tried filling their whole crank case with rislone? I've heard it is basically a straight weight oil with some weak add pack and MAYBE something in it that wouldn't show up in a VOA without more sophisticated methods.
No it won't do much to splash only fed areas. My mazda doesnt' look that much better than that with valve cover off but now totally silent and smooth halfway into this cleaning. 5W/15W50 on a very cold running engine for 16mths sure has made a mess. I had even stopped using my normal maint dose. Big lesson learnt.
When you're starting with that much sludge, it's going to take more than three treatments of anything to get it all out. The ARX made some difference. It's not a miracle worker. Don't overlook the reality that the bottom end of that engine was likely just as bad. Any non-solvent cleanser can only remove so much debris per dose. If the ARX had worked any faster on that quantity, I would have serious concerns of filter overloading. Did you open up the filters to see what was being lifted?
If you've come this far, I would give it one more ARX treatment, and then follow up with several short changes on an HDEO. The top end will only get better, barring a continuing PCV system malfunction.
A solvent flush would have oil starved and killed that engine. The only other safe alternative would have been a teardown, which is far more expensive than four bottles of ARX.
BTW, ARX doesn't work any better if you overdose it. It's just wasting money at that point.
If you've come this far, I would give it one more ARX treatment, and then follow up with several short changes on an HDEO. The top end will only get better, barring a continuing PCV system malfunction.
A solvent flush would have oil starved and killed that engine. The only other safe alternative would have been a teardown, which is far more expensive than four bottles of ARX.
BTW, ARX doesn't work any better if you overdose it. It's just wasting money at that point.
seriously, i would go to Advance Auto Parts (or your version near you) and buy a few cases of the Penzoil Platinum synthetic oil and run that for THREE thousand mile OCI's.....then check it out.
and i'd continue running synthetic in a pizza delivery vehicle.
and i'd continue running synthetic in a pizza delivery vehicle.
wipe as much of that crud off as you can. plug the oil return galleys with a clean towel. then squirt some LC20 directly onto the remaining areas, let it set, then flush it down with more LC20 - that will dissolve it. then take a wet/dry vac and suck up the run-off. then drain your oil, do a short rinse OCI, and continue to use LC20 at the prescribed dosage. a little LC20 in the oil will prevent further build up.
I did two treatments on my suzuki sidekick.I followed the directions and have had no luck with the product as my seals are still leaking.Also do not use synthetic in your engine that is what caused my front and rear main and cam seal to start leaking.
I am a real skeptic about this stuff but I would say it worked somewhat. I would try a heavier solvent flush like the amsoil flush or berrymans or some of the others they list on here one time then go back to arx to clean it 2-3 more times. It does show some improvement but with all that gunk I think it will cost you $200 to clean it up. Which is another incentive to follow the 3000 OCI on some vehicles. You might try going to maxlife after you get that thing desludged. I say keep going
yes, most of the filters throughout the cycles were opened up, none of the filters showed significant signs of sludge deposited, pleats were about 10% loaded with stuff, compared to oil changes from before that had what appeared to be about 5% loading of "stuff." If the ARX had moved much, there would have been more in the filter, I have no intention of more ARX doses at this point on this engine.
I see pretty good progess going on from the pics. I would also think that more sludge is there for the taking with the next couple of oil changes. Call this additional rinsing. I would bet that the existing deposits have been infiltrated somewhat and are much softer and ready for the taking. I would also bet the deposits were rock hard to start with.
Any improved runability noticed through the last treatments?
Any improved runability noticed through the last treatments?
Quote"...The 1.3L in this car probably had the factory fill in for 50,000 miles, and probably didn't even start making sludge out of it till ~25-30k. From what I have read, these engines are easy on oil, and nobody had ever heard of one with sludge until mine comes along, suggesting that even with really poor oil change practices, these engines would ordinarily stay clean...."
Yes, while these engines are quite easy on oil, one shouldn't neglect (still) proper OCIs. 50,000miles per oil change? That's nuts! I wouldn't go past 6,000miles (or 8,000kms) OCI if I use factory fill/bulk dino or similar.
Suzuki engines are typically reliable unless you neglect OCI, thermostat failure and PCV clogging (their PCV venting/metering is a bit "archaic" by design).
IMHO at this stage the damage is somewhat done. Unless you sacrifice some serious elbow grease to rid of it, IMHO it will take another 200,000kms or more of regular OCI, additive changes, etc. to dissolve most of the visible deposits.
Yes, while these engines are quite easy on oil, one shouldn't neglect (still) proper OCIs. 50,000miles per oil change? That's nuts! I wouldn't go past 6,000miles (or 8,000kms) OCI if I use factory fill/bulk dino or similar.
Suzuki engines are typically reliable unless you neglect OCI, thermostat failure and PCV clogging (their PCV venting/metering is a bit "archaic" by design).
IMHO at this stage the damage is somewhat done. Unless you sacrifice some serious elbow grease to rid of it, IMHO it will take another 200,000kms or more of regular OCI, additive changes, etc. to dissolve most of the visible deposits.
mdocod,
Question did you recently purchase this vehicle? If not why has it been neglected on oil changes?
Question did you recently purchase this vehicle? If not why has it been neglected on oil changes?
Auto-RX has worked for my applications, from the pictures I do see improvements from each clean/rinse cycles, from the pictures it looks like the places where oil does not move as much may see less cleaning than others. I wonder how hardened the carbon must have been for auto-rx to dig into it and start dissolving it at a slow rate. Many here have stated that after a complete clean/rinse cycle it is a good idea to run DINO for a shorter OCI as the sludge that gets loosened is washed away by the oil.
All that I am wondering is how good say LC would be at their prescribed flush dose? Use a cheap rinse oil, put in say 3-4 oz of LC per quart of oil, drive 500-1000 miles although the LC flush procedures do not recommend this and see if anything drastic changes.
In the end it all depends on each owner’s love affair with their car. I have several older cars that I am treating with both ARX and LC just to experiment. This is what I like to do on the weekends, some may not and hence the frustration that ARX is not an over the night solution to all of their engine problems. Both have given me outstanding results, with both patience is the key, as long as I see improvement I am a happy customer.
All that I am wondering is how good say LC would be at their prescribed flush dose? Use a cheap rinse oil, put in say 3-4 oz of LC per quart of oil, drive 500-1000 miles although the LC flush procedures do not recommend this and see if anything drastic changes.
In the end it all depends on each owner’s love affair with their car. I have several older cars that I am treating with both ARX and LC just to experiment. This is what I like to do on the weekends, some may not and hence the frustration that ARX is not an over the night solution to all of their engine problems. Both have given me outstanding results, with both patience is the key, as long as I see improvement I am a happy customer.
Buy a gallon or two of Lube COntrol and see what it looks like after you finish the gallon. In that engine I would use 4 onces per quart of oil as initial fill. Then add 2 onces per quart every 1000 miles until it is time to change the oil. I would run 10W30 Rotella-T conventional or Havoline 5W30 or TropArtic 5W30. All of these oils can be had at Walmart. If you are running the LC I would not worry about doing an oil change any more often then every six months but I would change the oil filter every three. I would use a cheap filter like Walmarts brand or Advanced Auto Parts Total grip. If you chose to do oil changes more often then that it will only speed things up. I think that buy the time one gallon of LC has flowed through this engine it will be much much cleaner inside!
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