Synthetic oil in new motorcycles?

[rapidrob]

Anyone ever been told not to use synthetic oil in a new motorcycle?

 

[TimVipond]

When I checked a year or so ago, BMW recommends waiting 6,000 miles before using synthetic in their motorcycles.
Many Harleys come from the factory with synthetic oil.
Suzuki (like Harley) has said for years not to use synthetic until last year when they came out with a Suzuki brand synthetic oil.
Amsoil says you can start as soon as you want with synthetic oil.

 

[PT1]

I'd wait 200-500 miles as long as you don't use redline because they specifically tell you to wait 3000 miles.

 

[arkainzeye]

every bike i have owned i waited until 600 miles and changed the break in oil and put in amsoil motorcycle oil in. I never ever had a problem putting synth oil in at 600 miles.

 

[wileyE]

A few frequent oil changes on new bikes (especially shared clutch trans bikes) is the best route IMO. No reason to be throwing away expen$sive oils during break in. And starting off with synthetic wouldn't be license to skip those 1st few break in changes. I'd say the whole "it won't break-in on synthetic" is about 1/2 marketing myth. Makes it sound "so good the motor won't wear in". If it was that good the motor would last forever.

 

[Jaybird]

With better machining techniques, and improved metals, there should be little need for the extended "breakin" period that conventional wisdom is hung up on. That being said, there are few production motors that are held to the close machining tolerences and techniques that the aftermarket speed shops might employ.

If there are asperities at any friction point that radically violate each others space, there will be a removal of material, no matter what oil is used.
Besides, the lubrication regime that is concerned with this type of wear is hardly dependent on the base oil. The additives are responsible for the results of this sort of mis-match, and what happens to the surfaces when it occurs.
I don't think even a very polar ester is going to provide the surfaces the barrier protection that is required for the radical removal of metals in a mismatched part.

Now, I think we can provide fluids that will prepare the surfaces after such brutal metal removals occur. But this sort of preparation would be much more dependant on an intial coating of a quality rebuild fluid, that is desinged to help prepare the surface within the first few RPM's, rather than the choice of oil.

 

[rapidrob]

Just wanted to see if anyone else thought this was "marketing" hype!! I've heard so many people in cycle shops say: "synthetic oil is too slippery to break in the engine" What a crock!! Don't people know that synthetic oil no more "slippery" than conventional oil? Well, just shows even the engineers don't always know their stuff either if BMW recommends not using synthetic oil for break-in

 

[Reg# 43897]

I do very quick oil changes when breaking in a new machine so it only stands to reason that I use a cheaper HDEO like Delo or something. Why spend a fortune on a synthetic that is going to get drained early? Makes no sense to me. Of course, most liquid cooled bikes are very well served with regular Rotella T, Delvac, XD-3 & Delo anyways and I am not too certain about the need to be running synthetic HDEO's even though I have RTS in mine right now. Perhaps RTS is the exception due to it's low cost for such a strong Grp. lll oil. But as long as we stay on topic and consider a break-in oil, non-synthetic HDEO all the way.

John.

 

[wileyE]

I know builders who don't want VII's in the oil during break in and advise straight weight oil.

With the synthetics most oils don't disclose their base stock or additive formulation. In the case of many "race oils" I've know builders who want to be guaranteed the engine is broke in with oil with plenty of detergency to keep the wear metals suspended. If a synthetic oil left these out because of the solvency of the synthetic basestock they used than it may not be their best choice. Not all synthetics would be like this, but it's easier to just say use a hd mineral oil and not have to worry about it.

 

[mppzx12]

mototuneusa.com

I have brake in, several bikes and cars, I wait until first 1000 miles with a good dyno, then synt oil.

Always riding like I stole it.

 

[Steve S]

Quote:

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I'd wait 200-500 miles as long as you don't use redline because they specifically tell you to wait 3000 miles.

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That is so if the engine blows up it won't be Redlines problem. I am into a couple of oil changes to flush out the crun then use syn if you like to.

 

[Jack Hester]

I restore/rebuild antique H-D engines, and their first time running is on Amsoil 20W-50. What the customer uses afterwards is up to them. But, I can find no reason to use anything else. It's a lubricant. I want the slickest I can find for break-in. Parts burnish to a smooth fit, with the proper lubricant. If you want to race, build it loose, and turn it loose. If you want it to last, take your time.

Jack

 

[MULESKINNER]

All of the M/C manufacturers run thier bikes on a rear wheel dyno wide open in each gear range to test the engine and transmission. Amazing they then ask YOU to take it easy on your new bike engine for the first 500 to 1000 miles. I believe this debunks the break in myth.

 

[TimVipond]

I think the manufacturers want you to take it easy the first 500 to 1000 miles is to break in the bike and rider, not the engine. The tires are slick and the brake pads not bedded in for optimum performance. Also the new rider might be overly surprised when he grabs a handfull of throttle or brakes. "No one ever told me to take it easy!" he might say as he picks up his bike off the pavement (or worse).

 

[Jaybird]

I think only a percentage of production street bikes will be roll tested before ship. And not all motorcycles are driven off the assembly line in the first place. Many ship in a crate.

The mfg quality control is more concerned with finding major flaws during a production run, than he is violating engine break-in rules.

Even with the most precision of work, and the finest of bearings, there is still a small amount of parts mating that has to happen, and any eng. worth his salt knows this. So the break-in recommendation can never be removed, but rather updated to be consistant with current machining pratices, tolerences, and available materials used.

 

[wileyE]

Some engines are run in or spun with electric motors mainly to verify oil pressure and compression. Some are run on natural gas. Don't believe either procedure is meant to break the engine in but is more for quality inspection, and it's probably not every bike coming off the line.

 

[PT1]

Quote:

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I think only a percentage of production street bikes will be roll tested before ship. And not all motorcycles are driven off the assembly line in the first place. Many ship in a crate.

The mfg quality control is more concerned with finding major flaws during a production run, than he is violating engine break-in rules.

Even with the most precision of work, and the finest of bearings, there is still a small amount of parts mating that has to happen, and any eng. worth his salt knows this. So the break-in recommendation can never be removed, but rather updated to be consistant with current machining pratices, tolerences, and available materials used.

---

This is very true. Evidence for bearing break in on any machine is best illustrated on gas turbine engines where the bearings are fit up and then "run in" for precise parts mating. Correct mating & initial lube gets you thousands and thousands of hours of perfect life. Any off tolerance turns your bearings to scrap in very short order and then it's a short period of time before the failure ruins all the parts associated with that bearing. But I have to concur with Jack Hester as well......long easy break-ins with multiple oil changes have always served me well.

 

[hayabusa43]

My brother bought a new 07 saturn skyline redline roadster which comes with mobil one from the factory. I heard corvettes also come with mobil one when new.