Anti-squeal grease for brake pads

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I just bought CRC synthetic brake & caliper grease tonight. Also saw the permatex caliper lube in the green bottle. Would have to say the crc is better. It's a PAO with esters, has silica, graphite, and molydisulfide in it. It's a much thicker tackier grease than the permatex stuff which was more smooth and less viscous. So I foresee the crc lubing guide pins better in the long run. The crc says good to 600F whereas permatex stuff says 400F. And the CRC i bought, same as in the picture, 8oz bottle, was $10. The permatex cost more.
 
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Silicone-based brake grease is designed for caliper and wheel cylinder assembly work because silicone is an excellent lubricant for rubber and plastic. It is compatible with all rubber compounds including nitrile, Teflon, nylon and other synthetic rubbers. Silcone's normal working range is -40� F to 400� F. But it does not have the high-temperature staying power of a high solids synthetic lubricant, and it is a "wet" lubricant that can attract and hold dirt, making it less suitable for lubricating external metal-to-metal contact points such as caliper mounts and shoe pads. This type of product is best suited for assembling calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinders.

Another synthetic-based brake lubricant uses polyalphaolefin (PAO) as its main ingredient. PAO-based brake lubricants are also excellent for assembly work and lubricating seals and boots. PAO offers superior rust protection, making it well-suited for brake systems operated in wet environments. PAO brake lubricant may also include various amounts of moly, graphite and Teflon to enhance its lubricating properties. This type of product can withstand intermittent temperatures of up to 600� F, and can be used for both assembly and external lubrication.




From: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

If sylglide is silicone-based and CRC's product is PAO based, then I'd use the CRC product.

Now, it's time for me to get my buddy BOB to do some field testing of the CRC product especially in terms of noise reduction.
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I just bought CRC synthetic brake & caliper grease tonight. Also saw the permatex caliper lube in the green bottle. Would have to say the crc is better. It's a PAO with esters, has silica, graphite, and molydisulfide in it. It's a much thicker tackier grease than the permatex stuff which was more smooth and less viscous. So I foresee the crc lubing guide pins better in the long run. The crc says good to 600F whereas permatex stuff says 400F. And the CRC i bought, same as in the picture, 8oz bottle, was $10. The permatex cost more.




you apparently went more on price than anything else.
have you ever opened a bottle of the Permatex green? must not, because that stuff is thicker than any "grease" I've ever used.

HMCS(FMF/AW) R.A.S.
 
You guys are still disecting brake lubes? Everyone with OCD please raise your hand.....mine's up first.

My opinion(worth everything you pay me for them), the fact that you are seeking out a brake specific lube puts you way ahead of the game (vs. petroleum lube).

Which is best, CRC/STA Lube, Permatex, Silglide, or Dow 111?
My guess is they all get the job done well for the enclosed metal/rubber guide pins. Exterior sliding parts - I think the high solids pastes I mentioned in earlier posts work better. Before internet education, many of us successfully used anti-seize sparingly on exterior parts.

Notes of interest:

The CRC has less than 2% of those moly/graphite/teflon thingies. Barely just enough to make any difference, but maybe good marketing ingredients to edge it above the Permatex.

Silglide's MSDS barely mentions silicone and is cryptic. Unlike the 111, Silglide turns from clear to yellow when exposed to air - it "seems" different than pure silicone. Yet, Silglide has been a brake mainstay in many shops for eons and is a proven performer.

Ford OEM specs. silicone dielectric grease for all caliper applications (in and out). That's opposite of the info presented in Critic's link to that excellent Carley brake lube article. Guess we can't believe everything/anything!

I was surprised the Permatex was only rated to 400 degrees. It IS a synthetic (not silicone).

Permatex just introduced a purple ceramic brake lube good for 2800 degrees. I suspect it is the SAME product Bendix gets from Ceramlube (also 2800 deg., purple):
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/24125.pdf

So, while there are excellent over the counter brake lubes, there are also "Gold Castrol" type brake lubes for BITOG members.
 
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Hmm. The new Permatex stuff looks interesting. I have two pouches of the green synthetic disc brake caliper lube that I'm going to return. The new stuff hasn't reached here yet, so I'm going to wait for the new stuff to come out and then buy a bottle! Looks like its the new flagship brake lube of the industry, bar none. Thanks, wouldn't have known about this had you not posted it.
 
CRC is also marketed as Sta lube (NAPA), not to be confused with products designed to enhance love making sessions.

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Looks like its the new flagship brake lube of the industry, bar none.




New, yes. Different, yes. Fun to try, definitely. Better??????? I guess the old products of the past two dozen years are why all of our vehicles have been crashing into trees.

I just finished painting my living room with ceramic enhanced paint (not the insulating type). Supposed to make it kid (crayon) proof. Ceramic (as in brakes also) seems to be the newest marketing hype.
 
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Ok, stop whining about being too lazy to call the tech line. I wanted this guy to call because there is alot to explain, here is the cliff notes version-all brake squeal is caused by the pads vibrating. One reason they can vibrate on intrepids is because the anchor bracket area the pad rides on wears very quickly. This is due to the fact that the steel backing plate of the brake pad is harder than the anchor. On many vehicles this would be an easy fix, just replace the anchor bracket with a new one. Chrysler in thier infinite wisdom made the anchor part of the spindle assembly, effectively making for no easy fix. Smart brake technicians weld up the divots in the anchor, then grind them flat. This is a permanent fix, the weld is harder than the steal backing plate of the brake pad. And now a word about "adhesive type disc brake quiet stuff" (insert your favorite brand here) They are made for pads that do not have noise suppressing shims only! In other words-If the back of the pad is bare metal, you should apply several coats of "disc brake quiet"-I like permatex brand to the back of the pad. If there is a noise suppressing shim on the back of the pad-you need to apply a synthetic high temperature brake grease to the inside of the caliper fingers, the lip of the piston and to the anchor slide areas as well as the caliper slide bushings. Use Bendix Ceramlub for best results (We do have dyno data to prove we are superior in the noise reduction area) It is also rated to 2800 degrees for all you autocrossers out there. Silicone based greases run off at around 400-500 degrees, and antisieze, weatherstrip adhesive, RTV silicone ect-have no place in a brake system. Period, now....the tech line is open dudes!!!!!!!!!




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One more thing, anyone who does call the tech line for advice on how to quiet these cars down...I will send you a free sample of our grease......YES,, FREE, we have that much confidence in it, and I have that much passion for helping people solve brake issues with science, not myths and old wives tales



From: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-64193.html

I think I'm going to call them on Monday to get my free sample.
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This place will send sample tubs of Paste Lube and Ceramlub for about $4.00. He caters mostly to shops, so if he asks, just say you have a "shop":

http://www.gwrauto.com/

And my final post on this thread, I promise. Regarding "science, not myths and old wives tales". After 30 years mariage, I prefer the old wife's tail!
 
Squeaking brakes let my wife know I'm home. No point getting all stealthy on her now. LOL, just kidding.

So far I use the grease AutoZone gives me for 99 cents (I think it's actually 1.19 now) with every set of pads I buy from them. I never hear from the brakes after that until the wear indicators start scraping. Or after those snap off and it grinds. Or later on when the rivets start catching burrs of metal.

I try real hard to change pads before the wear indicators hit the rotor. But if I hear the slightest grinding sound I know I need to buy new rotors and I'll just keep going until the brakes are no longer effective, drive home using the parking brake, and spend the rest of the evening getting it all changed out.

As for squeaking rear brakes, I've never done a set of rears but since the drums on the wife's Taurus are getting talkative, I may be experiencing that soon.
 
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