Best fully synthetic oil for my ATV

[Enigma]

I posted this in the automotive section because I have a 05 Kawasaki KFX 700 ATV. It is a CVT clutched bike and therefore does not utilize a wet clutch setup.

I would like a very high quality true synthetic automotive spec oil. Crank case only holds 2qts so price is not an issue. I want the good stuff.

I have a Kawasaki technicians shop manual and it calls for SAE 10w-40 API SF or SG
API SH or SJ with JASO MA class

Of course the bike gets extreme use conditions. Very dusty and ran very hard and long at high speeds.

 

[dave1251]

Mobile one motor cycle oil would be my recommendation.

 

[boxcartommie22]

redline 10w40
motul chrono 300v 10w 40(perfect oil forthat atv)
torco sr-5 5w40

are my choices

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Amsoil 0-40 or 10-40!

 

[mrsilv04]

I'd use Amsoil MCF (Motorcycle formula) 10w-40.

Full synthetic and has JASO MA approval. Everything you need.

This is what I run in my Goldwing at a 5,000 mile OCI. I run my Wing like a sportbike, not like a Wing.

 

[Don Stefanik]

There are a lot of good oil's out there....best...opinions you will get.
Here is one that alot consider very good.

 

[Enigma]

I dont want any of the additives that are used with a shifter bike / Wet clutch.

 

[Enigma]

Whats all this stuff mean anyhow?

API SF or SG
API SH or SJ with JASO MA class

 

[62chevy]

JASO MA is Wet clutch rating which is what your spec is from your first post. MA will work in regular applications but is also rated for a wet clutches, won't hurt a thing.

 

[wileyE]

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I dont want any of the additives that are used with a shifter bike / Wet clutch.

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Not so much what they add, it's what they leave out. Mainly friction reducing additives and thin viscosity that combine to make a friction modified oil.

 

[fastbear]

We have two Kaw 700's that have Shell Rotella Synthetic 5-40 in the crankcases since they arrived home from the dealership. The 700's are mostly used on county roads with some asphalt at speeds in the 60's. Have been using Rotella in our motorcycles for several years with excellent results.

 

[wileyE]

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Of course the bike gets extreme use conditions. Very dusty and ran very hard and long at high speeds.

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fwiw, I used to build xr honda motors that got raced in the desert. Guys tried all kinds of oils and in the end it didn't make much difference, the dust is what got em. Air filteration will be your best bet for longevity on your atv. Don't use a k&n if your in the dust, and keep tabs on the filter to box seal. Plastic can look good, but warp when hot and bouncing around letting dust in.

 

[SWD6]

Dust is exactly why I usa the Rotella 5w40. It's priced the same as the Yamaha 20w40 but I don't have to change it when winter comes. Use same interval as dino to keep clean oil in it and it shifts better to

 

[Enigma]

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Of course the bike gets extreme use conditions. Very dusty and ran very hard and long at high speeds.

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fwiw, I used to build xr honda motors that got raced in the desert. Guys tried all kinds of oils and in the end it didn't make much difference, the dust is what got em. Air filteration will be your best bet for longevity on your atv. Don't use a k&n if your in the dust, and keep tabs on the filter to box seal. Plastic can look good, but warp when hot and bouncing around letting dust in.

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I run twin air foam filters exclusively. You being from Kitsap county know the dust/silt in the Central Oregon Desert. Foam is the media of choice down here.

 

[Enigma]

How about Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40?

wileyE, As a engine builder I am asking about great oil cause I am going to a hi-performance kit. Four stroke tech or fundy performance in Canada. 730cc 11.5/1 forged pistons JE or Wiesco. HD valve springs and stage 2 cams. Prob mild head porting just clean things up. Maybe a 20-30 shot of NOS for drags. Gotta find somebody good to install it..Recommendations??? Will need cylinders bored no sleeve or nikasil needed

 

[wileyE]

Might shoot this guy (Dan) an email about your engine build, not sure if he's taking on any work but may offer some good advice. http://www.patriotracing.net/

My other advise is work with a proven combination of parts and head work, carburation etc. Piece mealing this compression with that cam with these ports with those valve sizes etc ,out of a speed parts catalog rarely works well. The "good" engines always take some trial and error development, something that can be expensive and time consuming for the individual to take on. Be prepared to buy race fuel or at least av it you want it too survive.

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

I don't ride 4 strokes, so I won't make an oil recommendation (If I wanted to ride a 4 stroke I'd buy a John Deere

). However, I would second wileyE's suggestion. Dan is taking on much new work (but some), but if you get a hold of him he will gladly help you out. Dan is a great guy to deal with and does top notch work. He assisted me greatly building my Banshee and Honda engines. His Snowmobile engines are also second to none.

 

[jonny-b]

If you put Auto-Rx ( www.auto-rx.com ) in together with your synthetic oil, I guess this would be about the best protection you can get, since money isn't a problem.

 

[jonny-b]

For motorcycles, they call it Cycle-Rx, but it is the same stuff, just different wrapping.

 

[Enigma]

WileyE, Both companies I mentioned have Kits for my bike and have parts engineered to work together.In fact they only sell "kits" for the very reason you mention. They dont want missmatched parts to sour their name. Four Stroke Tech fields a GNCC team that runs pretty much the entire race calendar which is co sponsored by maxxis, Elka,Wiesco & douglas wheel to name a few. They have done a ton of real world track testing on my V-Twin motor and have in house machine services and a full flow bench setup.Owner Mickey Dunlap is constantly looking & testing new piston designs, cam profiles and the like to update his kits and keep them current. In fact he just developed a new lightweight piston in cooperation with Wiesco and a new pipe in cooperation with Muzzys exhaust for their upcoming 07 GNCC campaign.

http://fourstroketech.net/



[quote}
My other advise is work with a proven combination of parts and head work, carburation etc. Piece mealing this compression with that cam with these ports with those valve sizes etc ,out of a speed parts catalog rarely works well. The "good" engines always take some trial and error development, something that can be expensive and time consuming for the individual to take on. Be prepared to buy race fuel or at least av it you want it too survive.

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