Delo 400 15w40, 1000miles on it, 1968 chevelle.

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Here's what my oil test said. Its a 355 in a 68 chevelle, its driven pretty hard most of the time.

iron 58
chromium 4
lead 37
copper 12
tin 0
aluminum 9
nickel 0
silicon 49
boron 19
sodium 154
magnesium 18
calcium 2967
barium 0
phosphorus 1260
zinc 1502
moly 83
titanium 0
vanadium 0
potassium 210

I know i have a coolent problem, i'm taking the intake and heads off to replace the gaskets. My main concern was i thought i had a cam going bad and it looks like it isn't what i can read from the test. This is my first oil test done. I would really like to find out what the average numbers are for each one.

thanks,
 
Is the 1000 miles the distance on the oil, engine, or both? When was the last rebuild?
What lab did the analysis?
Does it get cold where you are?
 
I was rebuilt about 6yrs ago, it has probly 8000miles on it. I don't run it when its cold out. 1000miles was on the oil and filter. I sent it in through napa's carrier.
 
You have a major internal coolent leak. Rip it all down, install new intake and head gaskets, seal the front/back of the intake with a healthy bead of RTV and git r done right! That's all I can say.
 
Good to see this made it here. I think the low feed back is due to the fact the coolant and dirt are so obvious and severe they need to be addressed before anything else can be evaluated.
 
LargeCarManX2 his silicone is not anywhere near normal! Anything higher then about 23ppm's will always get flagged around here unless the oil you are useing use's a lot of silicone an an antifoam agent. Most UOA on vechiles with a properly functioning OEM paper airfilter are in the 8-20 ppm range if the milage is 7500 or less ont he OCI. If they go past about 7500 miles then it is usualy in the 15- low 20's. His iron and lead are also sky high but those are proably a combination of high silicone and coolant leak. Once he fix's the coolant leak we will be able to get a better look at his filtration and wear numbers.
 
Whoops..........I had 20 on my mind and his was 49. Correcto, and thanks for bringing that to my attention
cheers.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223

Just trash it and get a regular paper one...not worth the damage it will due.


I agree, but save the K&N for the track. Those K&N air filters let in a lot of dirty air.
 
Wear metals will go nuts with coolant in the oil. Get the coolant leak fixed, give the car one or two short oil changes to get the residual coolant out, and then refill with an oil of your choice. I think your current choice of 15w40 is fine, but you need to let things settle down before you try another UOA.
 
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