M1 15w50 vs. M1 V-Twin 20w50...one more time!

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I have it narrowed down to these 2 oils to use in my 2006 1200 Harley Sportster. I ride the bike all winter and these cold starts I have been doing with the 20w50 dino "360" oil sound horrible. The engine clanks a bunch on start up and does not want to run. I'm going to change the oil to eather M1 15w50 or M1 20w50 V-Twin. Which would be the better oil for very cold starts? I keep thinking the V-Twin is the better Motorcycle oil because it is made specificly for them while the M1 15w50 is more for cars. Will it make much difference what I put in the engine? I want good wear protection and good start up flow/protection in cold weather. Thanks again!!!!
 
well let me ask you this. Does your engine share the oil with the trany like metric bikes do? if not i wouldnt think the (m/c oil) would make a difference since the main marketing point of the m/c oil is for shared sump motorcycle cycles. i couldnt be wrong, but that was my first impression when you mentioned you had a sportster. you mentioned clanking noise when you start up. My friend 2003 883C does the samething. sounds real bad when you first start up.

chris http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/arkainzeye
 
Chris given those 2 choices I would go with the M1 15w-50EP.
You will find that the 15w-50EP is very close to M1 V-Twin oil in it's make up. I know a lot of riders that use it year round. And it get cold in mornings here in Wisconsin also.
 
Ditto on the M1 15W-50. I currently use it in my '06 Buell XB12 that is basically a Sportster engine. Have used it in the past in my Big Twin Harleys as well.

BMW guys can use it in their Boxers and K bikes as they also don't share engine oil with the trans or clutch.

David
 
Based on only two UOA's that I've personally done, M1 V-Twin had much better viscosity retention than M1 non-EP 15W50; this was in a 248cc parallel twin shared sump bike, with a redline at 14,500 RPM. Your results might be different since you have separate sumps.

Again, I don't think that the two are from the same base-stocks... pour points are different (-51°C for V-Twin, -42°C for EP) flash points are way different (270°C for V-Twin, 228°C for EP). Only problem with these specs is that the EP is from 2001, and the V-Twin is from 2003. I can't find anything newer on the M1 website and the formulations might have changed since then.
 
All 15W-50 M1 is now Extended Performance. There is quite a big argument on this forum about the fact that the 15W-50 seems to have been downgraded to a group III oil. The 20W-50 seems to be the better quality product as far as base stocks go. But, I just know what I read on this forum.

Chris
 
Both oils are good enough to use but with the switch over to G3 on the 15W-50 oil, the 20W-50 is probably the "best" of the two. I wouldn't be surprised if the cold-weather viscosity of the 20W-50 is actually close to the 15W-50 or better due to the base stocks.
 
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Both oils are good enough to use but with the switch over to G3 on the 15W-50 oil, the 20W-50 is probably the "best" of the two. I wouldn't be surprised if the cold-weather viscosity of the 20W-50 is actually close to the 15W-50 or better due to the base stocks.




Can you find out which one flows better on start up? I looked all over the M1 site and found noting but then I'm not sure what spec I should be looking at. Which ever is better durring cold weather is the one I'll use. Many thanks!
 
I run the 20w50 in Winter but I don't start under 45 degrees F. But if you are running at colder temps I would use the regular M1 15w50 in Winter and 20w50 in Summer.
No problemo.
 
Quote:


I run the 20w50 in Winter but I don't start under 45 degrees F. But if you are running at colder temps I would use the regular M1 15w50 in Winter and 20w50 in Summer.
No problemo.




The coldest I have started the engine was 22 degrees and the engine was hard to turn over. It had HD "360" dino oil in it. I hate to think of the wear that caused!!!!
 
They are both on the Mobil website: 20W-50: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2PVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
15W-50: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp

20W-50 cP@-10C=2930, Pumping cP@-20C=8500 but the 15W-50 does not list these specs. The 15W-50 has a cSt of 138@40C, VI of 145 and a pour point of -42C while the 20W-50 is 130@-40, VI of 150 and a pour point of -51C.

Throwing in the 40C and 100C specs into the Shell Viscosity Index Calculator and estimating the visc. at 20F gives a visc. of 2472 for the 20W-50 and 2873 for the 15W-50. That is just an estimator but keep in mind, the 20W-50 is thinner at 40C than the 15w-50, the pour point is lower and the VI is higher. I would guess that the low temp flow is better due to the better base stocks and additive package.
 
"...coldest I have started the engine was 22 degrees..."

I hope you let it warm up a bit?

Seriously, if you are riding ANY motorcycle every day in the winter and it gets to be really cold you should consider a different oil for that season. One (1) start at 22 degrees is not going to kill a Harley.

Do you realize how hard it is to ACTUALLY wear out a motorcycle? The average motorcycle sees LESS THAN 10,000 miles in its entire life. Many never see the 1st set of replacement tires. I read an article regarding the newest generation of Superbikes, i.e. ZX-10R, GSXR1000, Hayabusa, etc.: the dealers are seeing many of these back on trailers, wrecked with 1,000 miles (or less) on them...

Some individuals can break a hammer.

Cheers!
 
Quote:


They are both on the Mobil website: 20W-50: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2PVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
15W-50: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp

20W-50 cP@-10C=2930, Pumping cP@-20C=8500 but the 15W-50 does not list these specs. The 15W-50 has a cSt of 138@40C, VI of 145 and a pour point of -42C while the 20W-50 is 130@-40, VI of 150 and a pour point of -51C.

Throwing in the 40C and 100C specs into the Shell Viscosity Index Calculator and estimating the visc. at 20F gives a visc. of 2472 for the 20W-50 and 2873 for the 15W-50. That is just an estimator but keep in mind, the 20W-50 is thinner at 40C than the 15w-50, the pour point is lower and the VI is higher. I would guess that the low temp flow is better due to the better base stocks and additive package.




That is it! I'm going with M1 V-Twin 20w50 for winter use and summer too! I'll post my UOA's!
 
Quote:


"...coldest I have started the engine was 22 degrees..."

I hope you let it warm up a bit?

Seriously, if you are riding ANY motorcycle every day in the winter and it gets to be really cold you should consider a different oil for that season. One (1) start at 22 degrees is not going to kill a Harley.

Do you realize how hard it is to ACTUALLY wear out a motorcycle? The average motorcycle sees LESS THAN 10,000 miles in its entire life. Many never see the 1st set of replacement tires. I read an article regarding the newest generation of Superbikes, i.e. ZX-10R, GSXR1000, Hayabusa, etc.: the dealers are seeing many of these back on trailers, wrecked with 1,000 miles (or less) on them...

Some individuals can break a hammer.

Cheers!




Yes I let her warm up for 10 minutes! At the rate I'm riding I'll be putting close to 10,000 miles a year on my Harley so long engine life is really important to me. Thanks!
 
If I were riding in the dead of winter with lots of cold starts I'd give serious thought to trying Castrol TWS 10w60. You can get it at BMW dealers since it's spec'd for the M3.

This would probably be an ideal year round oil for a Harley v-twin

Just my
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