Oil suggestions - 2004 Corolla

[2x]

Hello all-
Just bought a 2004 Corolla. I changed the oil at 175 miles with Castrol GTX 5w-30. Dealer/manual states break in period is done at 1000 miles. My questions are:
1) At 1000 miles, can/should I go to synthetic or should I run a dino/blend a few thousand miles more to let everything seat properly?
2) From what I have read here, this engine is pretty much tolerant of any oil. I want to stick to 5w-30 until 36000. Any suggestions on a 5w-30 synthetic?

A few notes -
When I changed the oil, the oil was green. And I mean GREEN. It looked like GC (have it in my Civic) but can't imagine it was but who knows?
Also this car is a JOY compared to my civic to change the oil. I did the oil change on this car in 15 minutes without a stand/jack/lift. This compares to my civic which has the worst oil filter placement in the history of cars imo. With the corolla it is right there right side up - great stuff.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Eddie]

Sounds like you drained out the factory oil with some additives to properly break-in the engine. Not a smart move but, that's after the fact. In trying to recover I would refill with the factory recomended viscosity dino oil and leave it in for another 1500-2000 miles and then tchange to whatever. Ed

 

[TooSlick]

I like to go 5000 miles on a gas engine before putting in Amsoil ....You have lots of wear metal generated in the first 5000 miles, along with silicone gasket leaching - which causes the oil to foam excessively. It's best to do a couple of 2000-3000 mile changes with a cheap dino oil and then put the expensive synthetic in when you can run a reasonable drain interval of at least 7500 miles ....

I'd run the Mobil 1, 0w-30 during the winter months and their 10w-30 the rest of the year. I believe Toyota still recommends 10w-30 down to 0F? The M1, 10w-30 is the best grade they make using that formulation chemistry.

Of course, you can also run the 5w-30 year round, but you'll get better extreme temp performance w/ the 0w-30/10w-30 combination.

Tooslick

 

[TR3-2001SE]

I am with TooSlick. He is right on with this one for sure.

 

[FL-400S]

quote:

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Originally posted by 2x:
GC would void the warranty if they ever found out I guess. Manual states 5w-30 or if not available 10w-30. I probably will go to GC at 36000 like I did with the Civic.

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Yeah but the only thing is your Toyota has a 5year/60K powertrain warranty. Thats where Toyota 1-ups honda, besides costing less.

 

[mikemc]

Leave the GTX in for 2 to 3,000 miles and then use whatever oil you like in an API/SL rated 5w30. If you are set on using a synthetic (I'm a dino guy) Mobil1 5w30 would be a fine choice as its very easy to find about anywhere and should easily handle any weather Mass. can throw at it.

 

[Patman]

Even if they did an oil analysis on GC and tested the 40C viscosity, GC 0w30 looks very much like a 10w30 in that regard too, since it's viscosity at 40C is almost 70cst, which is actually a bit thicker than the average 10w30 oil's viscosity at 40C.

quote:

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Originally posted by quadrun1:
Based on the UOAs I've seen, I'd use GC.

They wouldn't know that you're using a 0W-30; even if analyzed, UOAs only show the weight at the "hot" temperature, that is, they'd see it as a 30 weight oil.

I seriously doubt they'd even do a UOA in the first place, and they certainly wouldn't waste even more time & money trying to figure out 5W- versus 0W-

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[mkosem]

I've got an 03 Matrix(same engine) and it seems as though the generally recommended oil and viscosity for this engine is Mobil1 5w-30. I've got 12k happy miles on this oil in my Matrix.

--Matt

 

[Neil Womack]

The best way to pick an oil that you and your engine will be happy with is by running analysis. Though I would not run my first analysis until the end of the second interval with your chosen synthetic oil.

 

[RTexasF]

We bought two 2003 Corolla's.......

The Master Tech at the dealership said there were absolutely no problems in changing to synthetic at 1000 miles providing the break in instructions were followed exactly. I did so and changed to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. I chose to use 10W30 due to the excellent UOA's on this oil and I live in central Texas so cold start oil circulation is a non issue. I changed her car over at 3000 miles (also M1 10W30) simply due to the fact that I had some Dino oil that was a waste if I didn't use it.

Both engines were quieter, although slightly, and neither has used a measurable amount of oil from break in through today. I traded mine in for an '04 Accord due to the awkward driving position that I could never adjust to. Long legs and lack of thigh support made driving the 'Rolla miserable for me.

The entire point of this response is that you CAN change to a real synth oil @1000 miles and not sweat anything providing you use a true synthetic.

As per suggestions on this board go 5K the first time with M1, then 7500 thereafter. An oil analysis is your best bet but I chose to pass on it.

For what it's worth...............

 

[7TFord]

I agree....you threw away good motor oil. I also would go the total of about 3000 miles on petroleum and then why not put in the GC as well. Am using it in my 01 Corolla.

 

[2x]

GC would void the warranty if they ever found out I guess. Manual states 5w-30 or if not available 10w-30. I probably will go to GC at 36000 like I did with the Civic. Funny thing is Honda was so adament about the "special break in oil" so if Toyota uses something like Honda does, it is not mentioned anywhere. Honda has it on their website, in the manual, it was drilled into me at the sale and pickup of the car. I wanted to say "OK for crying out loud 3750 before the first change" but with this car no such thing. Luckily it's a Toyota so I am not worried too much

 

[quadrun1]

Based on the UOAs I've seen, I'd use GC.

They wouldn't know that you're using a 0W-30; even if analyzed, UOAs only show the weight at the "hot" temperature, that is, they'd see it as a 30 weight oil.

I seriously doubt they'd even do a UOA in the first place, and they certainly wouldn't waste even more time & money trying to figure out 5W- versus 0W-