On 5/30/04, I installed an Amsoil BMK-13 Dual Remote Bypass Filter and a prelube pump on my ’03 Honda S2000. I did a great deal of research on oil filtration systems before I came up with this setup. My car had 5,997 miles when I installed it. Here’s what I did:
I removed the stock oil filter and screwed in the adapter supplied by Amsoil. From there, I ran hydraulic lines to and from the Dual Remote Bypass filter setup which was mounted on the sidewall near the filter. I had to use some customized fittings to get it to fit in this area, since the Amsoil fittings took up too much space.
At the inlet to the BMK-13 unit, I installed an 8AN tee, and had a hydraulic line coming from a ShurFlo 3GPM pump. I installed a low-pressure hydraulic line from the oil drain plug to supply oil to the prelube pump. This pressurizes the entire system at startup.
Here’s how it works: When I get in the car, I trip a toggle switch that I have clipped on the the bottom of the dashboard. This sends an electrical signal to a relay under the hood, which powers the prelube pump. This pumps cold oil to the inlet of the filters, pressurizing the entire system. I installed an oil pressure gauge, so I can see the pressure climb (typically to around 30 psi) in around 5 to 20 seconds, depending on how cold the oil is. Once the system is pressurized, I start the car. Since I kept the oil pressure switch hooked up, the car never runs without oil pressure. Once the car is started, I flip the toggle switch off, turning the pump off.
This pump is an on-demand pump, meaning that if it is turned on it pumps until the pressure exceeds the preset limit, then turns off until it hits the lower preset limit. So If I forget to turn off the pump, it turns off automatically, but kicks back on when the oil pressure dips below around 30 psi. I also installed an LED on my A-pillar that goes on whenever the pump is running so I know when I forgot to turn it off. It doesn’t do any harm to just keep it on, but this pump wasn’t designed for constant hot oil use, so I don’t want to push my luck.
Here’s how it looks under my hood (with the air filter housing removed for a better view)
As you can see, it is shoe-horned in there, but it’s a clean installation. I had to fabricate custom brackets to mount the Bypass Filter and Prelube Pump. You can see a braided hose above the Bypass filter. This comes from the Oil Pressure Sender port, and I have the pressure sender and pressure switch mounted on the end of the braided hose to prevent vibration fatigue. The blue fittings coming from the Bypass filter and prelube pump are the two ends of one line. I had too loop it just to get it to fit.
Here’s another view of the setup. The red wires on the left are connected to the relay switch. I have it set up this way so that I didn’t have high current traveling to the toggle switch under the dash board.
Here’s a picture of the drain plug hookup. This is a hollow plug screwed into a 6AN barbed fitting. It’s really easy to disconnect this when I change the oil. And because this pump setup can be run dry, oil changes are quick and I can purge practically all of the oil in the car. And when I fill the oil back up, I turn on the pump and pressurize the entire system before I start the car.
I picked the prelube pump up on Northern Tool’s website. It’s not designed for this application, however the specs on it suggested that it would work fine. I called up ShurFlo and asked one of their tech guys if he thought it would work, and he didn’t see any reason it wouldn’t. It’s been working now for 2 ½ years now and over 26,000 miles without any problems. The pump is Model #2088-343-135, which is rated at 3 gpm. It does a good job of pressurizing my system up to around 30 psi at startup. The built-in check valve prevents backflow of oil back into the oilpan. I have the oil pressure gauge to make sure everything is working as it should. I’m using Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil. The 0W- allows it to flow better when cold, which allows the system to pressurize quickly at startup.
Granted, this is way overkill, but I just wanted to see what I could do. This engine should last forever with this setup. I just had a UOA done on the last oil change, which can be seen here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post753919
Notice that with over 14 months and 12,691 miles since the last oil change, this setup is working great. The wear metals are low, and I still have a TBN of 6.2 left. And even with all these miles, the viscosity hardly changed. Here is a VOA on this oil: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB11&Number=473934
With a UOA like this, I’m comfortable with a yearly OCI. Amsoil has come up with an improved version of their bypass and full-flow filters, but I’m going to use up my stash before going to the new filters. Here’s what I’ve been using:
I removed the stock oil filter and screwed in the adapter supplied by Amsoil. From there, I ran hydraulic lines to and from the Dual Remote Bypass filter setup which was mounted on the sidewall near the filter. I had to use some customized fittings to get it to fit in this area, since the Amsoil fittings took up too much space.
At the inlet to the BMK-13 unit, I installed an 8AN tee, and had a hydraulic line coming from a ShurFlo 3GPM pump. I installed a low-pressure hydraulic line from the oil drain plug to supply oil to the prelube pump. This pressurizes the entire system at startup.
Here’s how it works: When I get in the car, I trip a toggle switch that I have clipped on the the bottom of the dashboard. This sends an electrical signal to a relay under the hood, which powers the prelube pump. This pumps cold oil to the inlet of the filters, pressurizing the entire system. I installed an oil pressure gauge, so I can see the pressure climb (typically to around 30 psi) in around 5 to 20 seconds, depending on how cold the oil is. Once the system is pressurized, I start the car. Since I kept the oil pressure switch hooked up, the car never runs without oil pressure. Once the car is started, I flip the toggle switch off, turning the pump off.
This pump is an on-demand pump, meaning that if it is turned on it pumps until the pressure exceeds the preset limit, then turns off until it hits the lower preset limit. So If I forget to turn off the pump, it turns off automatically, but kicks back on when the oil pressure dips below around 30 psi. I also installed an LED on my A-pillar that goes on whenever the pump is running so I know when I forgot to turn it off. It doesn’t do any harm to just keep it on, but this pump wasn’t designed for constant hot oil use, so I don’t want to push my luck.
Here’s how it looks under my hood (with the air filter housing removed for a better view)
As you can see, it is shoe-horned in there, but it’s a clean installation. I had to fabricate custom brackets to mount the Bypass Filter and Prelube Pump. You can see a braided hose above the Bypass filter. This comes from the Oil Pressure Sender port, and I have the pressure sender and pressure switch mounted on the end of the braided hose to prevent vibration fatigue. The blue fittings coming from the Bypass filter and prelube pump are the two ends of one line. I had too loop it just to get it to fit.
Here’s another view of the setup. The red wires on the left are connected to the relay switch. I have it set up this way so that I didn’t have high current traveling to the toggle switch under the dash board.
Here’s a picture of the drain plug hookup. This is a hollow plug screwed into a 6AN barbed fitting. It’s really easy to disconnect this when I change the oil. And because this pump setup can be run dry, oil changes are quick and I can purge practically all of the oil in the car. And when I fill the oil back up, I turn on the pump and pressurize the entire system before I start the car.
I picked the prelube pump up on Northern Tool’s website. It’s not designed for this application, however the specs on it suggested that it would work fine. I called up ShurFlo and asked one of their tech guys if he thought it would work, and he didn’t see any reason it wouldn’t. It’s been working now for 2 ½ years now and over 26,000 miles without any problems. The pump is Model #2088-343-135, which is rated at 3 gpm. It does a good job of pressurizing my system up to around 30 psi at startup. The built-in check valve prevents backflow of oil back into the oilpan. I have the oil pressure gauge to make sure everything is working as it should. I’m using Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil. The 0W- allows it to flow better when cold, which allows the system to pressurize quickly at startup.
Granted, this is way overkill, but I just wanted to see what I could do. This engine should last forever with this setup. I just had a UOA done on the last oil change, which can be seen here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post753919
Notice that with over 14 months and 12,691 miles since the last oil change, this setup is working great. The wear metals are low, and I still have a TBN of 6.2 left. And even with all these miles, the viscosity hardly changed. Here is a VOA on this oil: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB11&Number=473934
With a UOA like this, I’m comfortable with a yearly OCI. Amsoil has come up with an improved version of their bypass and full-flow filters, but I’m going to use up my stash before going to the new filters. Here’s what I’ve been using:
