!echo! Amsoil ACD 30, 106K on motor, 7.1K on oil.

[simple_gifts]

1st ACD run, previous oil was RL 10W-30 OilGuard Bypass. Blackstone labs FP + Loob Control

Al 2
Cr 0
Fe 2
Cu 3
Pb 0
Sn 0
Moly 43
Ni 0
Mn 0
Ag 0
Ti 0
K 18
Boron 0
Si 20 (12 VOA)
Na 0
Ca 2921
Mg 8
P 962
Zn 1069
Ba 0

Sus Vic @210F 58.9
Flash 385
Fuel Glycol/H20 0
Insol .3%

TBN 3.8

Spike in Si down from last run which was probably due to the engine sitting on a shop floor (out of the car) for several weeks. This oil has been replaced with TSO since several cold morning starts indicated a pumping issue. I dont' think 10W ACD @ 30F = 10W RL @ 30F.

-Thomas

 

[Pablo]

Why is Potashium = 18?

 

[buster]

Viscosity is 9.89 cSt. I went back and looked at your previous UOA's. You can run any oil in this engine. The TSO is an expensive choice much like the RL. Have you considered M1 EP or ASL/ATM from Amsoil? Just a thought.

 

[TooSlick]

If U quit diluting the oil with LC20, both the FP and viscosity @ 100C would be higher, ie better.

Blackstone isn't even close on the additive treat levels, which makes me think their wear metal concentrations are also about 20% too low. I believe my friend Buster would agree...

The Amsoil 10w30/ACD is thinner than the RL 10w-30 at every temp (including CCS viscosity), so I doubt that was an issue.
TS

 

[buster]

Quote:

---

If U quit diluting the oil with LC20, both the FP and viscosity @ 100C would be higher, ie better.

Blackstone isn't even close on the additive treat levels, which makes me think their wear metal concentrations are also about 20% too low. I believe my friend Buster would agree...

---

Yup. I do agree. You don't need to add LC to a good synthetic like you are using. IMO of course.

The TSO will easily go 10k miles in this engine.

B/S labs definitely shows lower additive levels then other labs.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

I think you would be happy with the Amsoil XLT and with an analysis of the oil...I am sure you could achieve 10K and save some money to boot. If you are a group PAO/Ester person the ATM will go 15K easy. Are you running a 10-30 because it uses some oil between changes?

 

[Pablo]

The oil started at 10.9, before adding the LC. Finished at 9.9. I don't even comment on this any more......but what was the reason for the LC? How much did you add?

Why is the K=18?

 

[TooSlick]

The 18 ppm of potassium is left over from the Redline add pack I'd suspect....

The Series 2000 will hold up even better than this...you can probably extend the OCI's out to 15,000 miles with that oil, based on this one analysis.

TS

 

[simple_gifts]

FWIW I'm primarily interested in extended drains, not saving money. Although the Amsoil Group III oil seems a great oil for some apps (honda e.g) I don't think I would entertain it for this engine (I guess I'm a PAO/Ester person) Toyota 4 cyl seem extra tough on oil and I'm shooting for a durable longlasting lube.

Pabs, I guess I don't have any defense as to why I added LC. I don't remember how much I added, probably not more than 12 oz.

LCMan, car uses no oil. I tried ACD, just "because" I was intriqued by the "no vii, shear stable claims" Several years ago, I had a UOA on Saab Synthetic oil which was made mince meat of, in roughly 3,900 miles. ATM/ASL should have been the way to go, i guess; I recall seeing an echo UOA on ASL with 20K+ miles.

TS, I hope your evaluation of S2k is correct. I thought I read that the new formulation appears better than the older one. 15K would be satisfactory for me, but I may try the ATM route. By the time the car is worn out, I should have my oil choice finalized.


-Thomas.

 

[Pablo]

Quote:

---

The 18 ppm of potassium is left over from the Redline add pack I'd suspect....

---

I don't think Redline has that much K.

In general I don't think this analysis is that bad other than the K. 12 oz added LC, the oil thinned a bit. The numbers probably aren't that accurate (Blackstone) - but in general wear seems low.