Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

92 Camry V6, 162,000 miles. Amsoil 10W30 since new changed every 7500 miles. Now uses about a quart during the 7500 mile OCI. Currently doing an RX treatment for seepages.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

Originally posted by Last_Z:

I'll be happy if I can get 100-120k miles from my LS1......I don't see why it couldn't.
Rick


The LS1 is proving itself to be a durable engine, even with it's piston slap and consumption issues.

There is a guy on Corvette Forum who at last count was at 317,000 miles on his 99 Corvette. He has done 5000 mile changes with Mobil 1 5w30 (probably could've doubled those change intervals and still been safe though since he does all highway driving) It's his daily driver, he is a salesman who travels all over Michigan. He just slaps on a set of Goodyear runflat snow tires for the winter season and keeps on truckin!
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I think I can safely say that guy got his money's worth. That is just awesome!!
 
1976 Suburban 454 - purchased with 78K miles. Cam was flat. Did a cheapie overhaul - rings bearings, cam, lifters, pushrods and rockers. 132K miles later I am beginning to burn more than a quart every 3000 miles unless I run 20W50. Always Penzoil 10W30 or 10W40 depending on the season, and either PF35 or PF938 filters. It has pulled everything I can hook up to it. A real workhorse. I just don’t want to think of how much fuel has passed through the carb.

1978 Caprice 307 CID. Only made 225K miles before the body rusted too bad. One timing chain set at 168K. Penzoil 10W30 or 10 W40 and PF 35 filters at 3K intervals. At retirement it still didn’t use a quart in 3K miles.

1988 Celebrity 2.8 V6 210K miles. Engine never opened, not even valve covers off. Penzoil 5W30 at 3K intervals with PF51 and later PF52 filters.

Terry
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:


No heater fan, radio, air conditioning.......I believe in torturing my kids to center them for the real world
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You are a good man Terry!!
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I'm the same way.....I believe you have to earn what you want with change to spare. As soon as my almost 2 year old turns 14-15, she'll have to get some part time job at H-E-B or Walt-Mart. Daddy needs to save for his retirement.
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EDIT: My friend has a 92 MR2 Turbo with something like 175-195k miles. He bought it used with about 120k. He uses Castrol GTX and changes every 3k. I convinced him to try M1 and it burn/leak a bit of it and he freaked out and went back to GTX. Compression is ~175-180 psi on all cylinders and he's had that thing boosted to 15+ psi for quite a while now. He also drives like a maniac; constantly.....like I used to a few years back.

[ January 07, 2004, 11:36 PM: Message edited by: Last_Z ]
 
1990 Honda Civic, 150,000 miles, original owner. I've changed the oil every 5,000 miles using the cheapest dino juice I could find. I recently switched from 10w40 to 10w30 oil and it now gets slightly better fuel economy.

The car runs like new and does not burn or leak oil.
 
I have six cars with over 150K, but they're all Volvo 240/740/940 cars with the red block engine, so that doesn't count; they're barely broken in at 150K. At any rate, I've used various conventional oils, mostly Havoline, Kendall and Castrol GTX in past years, although now primarily Valvoline (Premium Blue 15W-40) and Chevron (10W-30 Supreme, 15W-40 Delo). One car is in semi-long term storage and has Amsoil 15W-40 Marine in it. My wife's 940 (turbo) is the only one being run on synthetic, GC 0W-30 at the moment, with a Mann W917 filter. All the others are running Motorcraft FL-1As or the Supertech equivalent (ST-8, I think). I generally use a six month or 4,500 mile OCI, whichever comes first.
 
My woman drives an eighteen-year oil Audi Coupe GT with 180,000 miles on it. We have only had it since 140,000 miles. It probally only got dino 5w-30 every 6000-7500 miles. The first six changes being free at the dealership, probally GTX. It has a wet pan gasket, but burns less oil than many of our newer low miles cars, maybe 3/4 quart in the 6000 mi oci. I used MaxLife and Durablend, plus some random quarts of synth chucked in. It's destiny lies in the 40+ quarts of Superflo Semi-Synth I bought for a penny each. Probally I will continue to add a quart of synth to the mix in wintertime. We kept a '87 VW Quantum Syncro too until it was totaled, 190k, we got it at 155k and I KNOW the previous owner used SUPERTECH every 3000 miles like an idiot, he told me so. Same result, a clean cool-runnin engine with good compression.
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[ January 08, 2004, 12:16 AM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
 
1987 Honda Accord (just recently sold it), 165K miles. Dino 5W-30 its whole life. Didn't burn any and MPG was as good as it was 100K miles ago.
 
I have a 1990 Chevy Cavilier Z24. I put 250,000 miles on it. I ran Mobile 1 10w-30 in it. During the first half of its life I changed oil every 3,000 miles. Then I got sloppy and changed oil every 5,000-7,000 miles. A head gasket finally blew and it now sits in my back yard.
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1988 S10 with 4.3 engine, 226000 miles, AC filters, the cheapest 10W40 oil (Walmart) I can buy changed at 3K, still runs great, no oil use. This truck spent the early years dragging a 4000 lb RV thru the mountians of Colorado, I used Mobil 1 when towing. The engine has never been worked on except for TBI gaskets, alternator, starter and ignition system

[ January 07, 2004, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: Bob Woods ]
 
99 Isuzu Trooper
V6 DOHC 3.5L AWD/RWD/4x4 4sp Auto
160K+ miles

5w30 & 10w30 synthetic(M1 or Castrol) or cheap dino early on with OCI of 3-5k;have been using 40 weight at about 130k with same OCI. Mostly Purolator brand oil filters. Open oiled hi-flow cone air filter.

Daily driver with occasional off-highway use. Oversized tires(33" vs oem 29")from 10k on and lower gear ratio(5.38 vs oem 4.3) since 60k.

There seems to be an oil ring design issue which causing sticky rings thus producing blowby and consumption;otherwise wear trend is normal(based on UOA's).
 
Excellent response so far guys!

A couple of things can be learned from this. Dino oil isn't so bad after all, although then you still do need to change it every 3-5k.

Another thing we learned here is that 30wt oils can give many engines a long and happy life, so not all engines need 40 or 50wt oil to live a long time.

This isn't to say synthetics don't have their place though (and thicker oils have their place in certain engines too!). In a hard driven engine, or an engine which sees frequent cold starts, it's a definite asset. Plus for those who don't want to do oil changes every 3k, synthetics give that bigger margin of safety.

But there is no arguing with the fact that if you can still get a long engine life with dino oil if changed frequently enough. I'm honestly surprised at the number of responses from people who have used 5w30 and 10w30 dino oil and gotten good life though. With them thinning out to 20wt oils so easily, and leaving an engine dirtier inside, I wouldn't think they would have had such a strong showing in this thread as they have.

I can't wait for more replies, keep em coming guys! (I also am eager to hear from synthetic oil users who have gotten high mileage from doing 10k intervals or more for the life of their car)

[ January 07, 2004, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
Volvo (yeah I know) 245Turbo (gotcha) never opened.

242,000 miles (yeah I know)

Amsoil (yeah I know) of various viscosities 10K intervals (max recommended for a Turbo by Amsoil really it's 3x the mfr. recommendation)
 
1990 Hyundai Excel 1.5L-->160k

I totaled it in an ugly accident, but the engine was ok.

0-->35k: 3k OCI with Castrol 20w-50 & Fram filter
35-->160k: 3k OCI with Mobil 20w-50, Chevron 20w-50, and ST 20w-50 with ST oil filters

Engine smoked a bit on startup (didn't know about this site or AutoRX, otherwise I would have done things a bit differently), and I used HyperLube Engine Suplement & Restorer the last 50k with success, but I did notice some sludge being created...

The car always gave me 30+mpg...
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Toyota Cressida with 250,000 miles on Castrol GTX and 3000 mile changes. Started of 10w-30 then went to 10w-40 and then 20w50 because of oil consumption. Now using 10w-30 after first rinse with auto-rx. Oil consumption has been cut in half so far. Used 1 quart 20w50 every 500 miles now uses 1 quart 10w-30 every 1000 miles.
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251,000 mi on a 84 Dodge Charger. Ran 5,000 mile OCI with Mobil 1 10w30 with supertech & stp filters until about 240,000, then recently swithced to Castrol sytec blend 10w30 after noticing the vehicle ran better with it. Also have less oil consumption and had a very good UOA.
Exclusively use Supertech oil filters.
 
I sold my '97 F150 with the 4.6l V8 in August with 163,000+ on the odometer. It had a steady diet of Valvoline Durablend 5w30 from the first oil change to the next to last oil change I performed and used either Valvoline filters (champions) or Purolator Pure One filters. The last oil change was with Motorcraft 5w20! Still not one issue with oil consumption, ever. Oil changes every 3-4k. The engine has never been cracked open.

My old '89 Cavlier with the 2.0l 4 cylinder made it to 163,000+ miles (eerie coincidence to the '97 F150) before we donated the car. It had a steady diet of 5w30 and 10w30 oils, mainly Valvoline All Climate, with a little Kendall and some Mobil Drive Clean. It consumed the drive clean like mad! Religiously changed at 3,000 miles or 3 months. Consumed a quart every 3000 miles, 2 qts every 3000 miles on Drive Clean.

At last check, our '88 Chevy C1500 pickup at the cabin has over 250,000 miles on its 4.3l V6. It has always had a steady diet of Phillips 66 Trop Artic 5w30 and 10w30. Smokes some on startup, but that goes away quickly. Uses a quart every 3000 miles. Always changed every 3000 miles.
 
(this post is from OilAnal, who asked to have this info moved from another post)


87 Pathfinder with 230k miles using mostly dino oil at 3k. Replaced engine at 230K due to it using oil and lost of power. It had some engine work at 130k and started buring oil after the work. Later, the work did not seem to be necessary,so not sure what the engine would had really done it left alone. But hey, 230k is stll not bad. Just got a little doggy at the end.

87 Camry 4 cyl 272k miles with no engine work and currently uses about a quart in 2k miles. Power is still good and runs very nice and smmoth. The car is jut flat out amazing. All on dino oil at 3k. Currently duing rinse phase of Auto-RX. Oil usage seems to be going down. Plan to do two Auto-RX treatments.

[ January 08, 2004, 05:25 AM: Message edited by: OilAnal ]
 
Here is a post from the CamaroZ28.com thread I posted on this same subject:

quote:

184,xxx here, a few minor leaks here and there but otherwise no problems. Doesn't burn any oil and still has 25-30psi of oil pressure at idle when hot. I've had the intake and valve covers off a few times and the motor looks very clean inside. A bit of varnish buildup but zero sludge.

I almost always use Mobil 1 10w-30 with a AC Delco PF35 or 1218 filter on a 5,000 mile interval. When money was tight I did use Castrol GTX a few times. I bought the car with 118k on it so I have no idea what kind of oil the previous owner used.


__________________
Jason
93 TA, M6


 
Originally posted by Curtis Newton:
[QB] 1988 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder with automatic transmission. Original transmission/engine. As of two weeks ago, ~299,600 miles.
-*-*
R:
Man, I love you getting the miles you do out of an AUTOmatic. Could you explain if its due to treatments or fluid changes or cooler?

The car has had treatments of Slick50 at 90,000 miles, 150,000 miles and again at 220,000 miles.
-*-*-
R:
Man, I like that TEFLON and it held... makes me feel better about my teflon run.
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I run a little Taco -ma, and it sees a lot of courrier work. It's a 1997 2.4l Standard Reg. Cab, base as you can get truck. Got it with about 148 miles on the truck from the StealerShip enterprise Toyota Stealer here in Houston, Tex.
They wanted to get rind of the truck because it was a DEMO, and the salesman said people don't like to buy new cars with over 100 miles... And they actually gave me the truck for less money than we agreed to.
This little Toyota had always burned oil since new. It sucked down 5w30 which when I got the truck was almost a feat in of itself to find, even the StealerShip selling the truck did not carry it nor offered it THERE as a FILL. So I went to DINO 10w-30.
Tried many different dinos, mainly to reduce the burning at first. But ALL were BAD... so I just kept extending drains and went to a straight 30w.
The 30w cut my brun to a level I felt was okay and then I changed brands to a premium oil after I was sure the burn was reduced.
Stuck with DINO the whole time. Played around and instead of bumping to a 15w-40 (maybe later) I went with a 30w + VII, and that almost stopped all burn whatsoever. Then I bumped up my drains into the extended range, ---->extended, then I'm at where I am now at 398,212 miles with the cover open for a seal job and the pan off for a leak, several other things like a rear seal every 100-150K and fron crank seal leak just recently, a lot of leaks in this beast.
Recently I went to some DINO with no moly in it and as some know I am doing a Teflon test, and about more than midway past that, then I will do a couple tests with Moly again (gonna stick with moly) and I have to use up about 72 Quarts of a 10w-30 dino with moly before I can go (or will most likely) back to the 30W straight and finish that off, then, unless LIFE happens, I will consider and likely move to 15W40 because I'll have aroung 600K++ unless severe leaks happen again, and see how it does then... Tried it recently on a short drain (22 miles I think) and it was too sluggish, need more wear)and if everything holds up, and it is too sluggish at 600K I'll wait to 800K to move up to a 15w-40 DINO, unless technology improves, and then I may go with a Syn by then, you never know!
 
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