Why Can't I use Japanese Coolant in a '95 Ford?

[Roger]

Specfically the ethylene-glycol based stuff that have no amines, no silicates and no borates...like Toyota or Nissan coolant?

Today I pulled the 3rd radiator out of my 10 year old van because the bottom seam corroded thru and started leaking coolant... again!

I've always used conventional ethylene glycol w/distilled water and so far it has averaged a rotted out radiator once every three & a half years. I'm tired of it. My two Nissans on the other hand have clear, clean radiators after 100K & 60K miles, respectivley.

Ford spec's M97B44-A coolant for my E-150, and warns not to use anything but green death. I know the Asian stuff is expensive...but dang, not as expensive as a new radiator every few years!

Oh yeah...earlier this summer I had the dealer repair two corroded joints on the coolant lines that carry antifreeze to the van's rear heater. Coincidence?

I'm ready for a real coolant change this time!

 

[vizvo]

Traditional coolant should be changed out every couple of years.

But maybe it's not your coolant. It might well be some weird electrolytic action (e.g. maybe the engine block is not well grounded). Take a digital voltmeter and put one probe on the negative battery terminal, put the other probe into the coolant. Ideally there shouldn't be any voltage, no more than 0.1 volts at most.

 

[ChrisW]

You can use G 05 type coolant, and thats what I'd reccomend over even the japanese stuff. I personally believe that HOAT (G 05) type coolants are better than OAT type coolants; mercedes benz has been using G 05 chemistry for many years. G 05 also has better control over cavitation that does OAT type coolants; the very tiny amount of silicates deals much better with cavitation then does a straight OAT.

 

[Mickey_M]

Electrolysis usually attacks heater cores, and it usually results in pinhole leaks.

The usual check for a problem is a current flow test.

Connect the negative terminal of a voltmeter to the chassis ground.

Test for adequate continuity by touching another point on the chassis - the resistance should be near to zero.

With the engine cold and running, submerge the positive probe into the coolant tank; making sure that the probe does not touch any metal parts.

The voltage should be less than .10 volts.

Be sure to check it with someone using the starter as an additional check. A poorly grounded starter cause a voltage spike.

I'd choose G-05 over the Japanese coolants. It's readily available and it's been used for many years in Europe, primarily by Mercedes.



.

 

[Ray H]

The Japanese coolants (Honda, Nissan, ane Toyota) are also hybrid technology, but substitute phosphates for the reduced silicates in G-05. Very probable that the Japanese syrups would work fine in a Ford, but given that G-05 is relatively cheap, why pay the difference? Mercedes has used G-05 for over two decades, BMW nearly as long. That's a track record that shouldn't be ignored. I realize Ford hasn't issued sanctioned approval for G-05 for the company's vehicles prior to model year 2002, but there's nothing in the way of anecdotal or trade journal copy that's implicated G-05 as problematic in older Ford products that I've been able to ferret out. Zerex flat out states on the front label of G-05 that G-05 is applicable for "Vehicles requiring green coolant". Personally, I've now come to the conclusion that G-05 is literally the world-class universal antifreeze for ANY passenger car or light truck out of warranty - and that includes the Japanese and Korean makes.

 

[Roger]

I didn't know about the current check. Thanks guys. I'll do that this weekend once I get the new radiator installed. I've looked all over Fort Smith for G-05, but no one seems to carry it. Found Peak Long Life. That's it. Will try a NAPA store in a neighboring town. I wrote Xerex some time back and they told me G-05 is backward compatible with my van.

 

[vizvo]

Roger, some folks here at BITOG have said that Ford Premium Gold antifreeze is the exact same thing as G-05. I don't know how accurate that claim is, but it seems reasonable. If that is the case, your Ford Dealer parts department should have it. The Ford part number is VC-7-A (in California the number is VC-7-B).

If there is a Pep Boys near you, then they might have Zerex G-05. Also sometimes a "Mom and Pop" type auto parts stores will do a special order.

 

[Ray H]

Only differences between Ford's G-05, Mopar's G-05, Mercedes G-05, BMW G-05, and Zerex G-05 are the various marker dye colorings. (and the pricing...)

 

[Roger]

As it turns out, the NAPA store had the G-05, so I got 3 gallons of it. Never thought to price the Motorcraft Gold today for comparison. I'll flush the system this weekend and put in the G-05. Picked up the new radiator today too.

Guys I talk to at work seem to think I have some sort of chemical attack (whatever that might be) or an electrolisys issue. All I got from the dealer, was a "Gee, that's really unusual."

 

[gtx510]

What do you guys think of the Motul coolant concentrate?
www.motorspot.com/dir.cfm?secid=6&subsecid=&start=1&end=&itemid=

 

[Ray H]

If "Optimal Ultra" and "AOT" stands for "acid-organic-technology", then the orange brew could well be equivalent to a dexclone selling for an outrageous $30.00/gallon. If the "Inugel Expert Ultra" hybrid concentrate uses reduced silicate levels as the hybrid additive (likely since the stuff has M-B's blessing) then this version could well be a G-05 also selling for an outrageous $30.00/gallon. Clever Euro packaging and slick product descriptions, though... (Those kool empty one-liter bottles will sure impress the neighbors if they're positioned visibly on trash pickup day!

)

By the way the directions' reference to "soft-water" carries a different connotation in Europe. They mean distilled or de-ionized water. If you use residential ion-exchange softened water that substitutes sodium for calcium, you're setting yourself up for some serious corrosion problems in your cooling system - especially the aluminum components.