I stopped by the Infiniti dealer this morning to pick up a gallon of Nissan Longlife Coolant, which is the recommended coolant for my 2002 Infiniti. I decided to stay with the Nissan stuff, to prevent any backlash on my warranty, just in case. When I got home, I noticed the gallon container says "Nissan Engine Coolant L248SP." Not a word about longlife! Anybody know if this is the longlife stuff, or not?
Nissan Coolant
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If it's branded "Nissan" and current production, I'll bet it meets the Nissan/Infinity owner's manual recommendation for specified changeout intervals. Are there any indications of ingredients on the back of the jug? If so, repost and list 'em so we can keep our informal BITOG antifreeze "data base" up to date.
(My personal impression is that all three Japanese major players use essentially the same antifreeze chemistry - ethylene glycol, enough distilled water to maintain solubility of the additive package in the concentrate, and some form of hydrated organic acid and phosphates as the dual corrosion inhibitor package - unless anyone else has solid info to the contrary.)
(My personal impression is that all three Japanese major players use essentially the same antifreeze chemistry - ethylene glycol, enough distilled water to maintain solubility of the additive package in the concentrate, and some form of hydrated organic acid and phosphates as the dual corrosion inhibitor package - unless anyone else has solid info to the contrary.)
Nissan Engine Coolant L248SP is NOT Nissan's Long Life Engine Coolant...even though I have no idea whatsoever how they differ. I have a gallon of each in my garage. The LL part number is 999MP-AF000. The L248SP P/N is 999MP-AF000P. On the front label the L248SP gallon says, "Engine coolant advanced formulation for aluminum and cast iron engine parts...nonsilicate type green fluid." The front cover of the other says, "Long life Antifreeze Collant." So much for meaningful labeling!
The back of each gallon contains the exact same descriptive introductory paragraph, except where one says "Nissan Long Life Antifreeze Coolant" the other uses the wording "Nissan L248SP," as follows:
"Nissan L248SP Engine coolant (or Nissan LL anti/cool) is an advanced formula ethylene glycol based product which uses state of the art technology. L248SP (or LL) contains no amines, no silicates which may harm water pump seals, no borates that may cause aluminum corrosion and pitting. L248SP (and again...or LL) provides long lasting protection for aluminum, cast iron and all othe engine components."
The L248SP is made by CCI Mft'ing of Lemont, Illinois while the Long Life just says "distributed by Nissan USA."
I paid $16 for the LL two years ago and $25 for the P248SP last fall. I think the LL is $29 now. I didn't realize Nissan was selling 2 different coolants until I got home and compared the labels. I ran the factory coolant until 60K in both my Altima and Maxima per the owners manual. The Max tested a little weak (-20 vs -34) but the inside of both radiators were squeaky clean...so I pay the big $$$'s and continue to use Nissan's brand changing it every 30K now. I do not think there is a comperable after market brand that can be subsituted at any price.
[ May 24, 2005, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: Roger ]
The back of each gallon contains the exact same descriptive introductory paragraph, except where one says "Nissan Long Life Antifreeze Coolant" the other uses the wording "Nissan L248SP," as follows:
"Nissan L248SP Engine coolant (or Nissan LL anti/cool) is an advanced formula ethylene glycol based product which uses state of the art technology. L248SP (or LL) contains no amines, no silicates which may harm water pump seals, no borates that may cause aluminum corrosion and pitting. L248SP (and again...or LL) provides long lasting protection for aluminum, cast iron and all othe engine components."
The L248SP is made by CCI Mft'ing of Lemont, Illinois while the Long Life just says "distributed by Nissan USA."
I paid $16 for the LL two years ago and $25 for the P248SP last fall. I think the LL is $29 now. I didn't realize Nissan was selling 2 different coolants until I got home and compared the labels. I ran the factory coolant until 60K in both my Altima and Maxima per the owners manual. The Max tested a little weak (-20 vs -34) but the inside of both radiators were squeaky clean...so I pay the big $$$'s and continue to use Nissan's brand changing it every 30K now. I do not think there is a comperable after market brand that can be subsituted at any price.
[ May 24, 2005, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: Roger ]
For Ray H, the listed ingredients in Nissan L248SP Coolant: Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Water (7732-18-5), Sodium Benozoate (532-32-1). Meets ATSM SPECS: ATSM D-3306, ATSM D-4340. Cover label states this is Nonsilicate Type Green Fluid.
Then the L248SP IS a long-life coolant regardless whether the jug says so or not. If there're no phosphates instilled, the stuff is fairly close to a DEX-COOL clone. (The listed hydrated organic acid corrosion inhibitors differ, but each fulfills the same function.) Sounds to me as though Nissan maintains two suppliers in the U.S. - each with perhaps slightly different, though compatible chemistry, as a hedge against supply bottlenecks.
$29 a gallon for the LL. I just bought Prestone LL for $7 a gallon and the Nissan stuff is that much better.As I posted before for the first time ever useing Prestone with 2 year changes had to replace my water pump after 10 years. The radiator and fluid that comes out when draining is clean.So perhaps Prestone has changed formulas thus less pump lube that the more expensive Nissan type. That kinda figures if the prices go up for the good stuff to help your car the most to save $ they just leave it out and replace it with something cheap.Now I have 2 cars and the truck with PRESTONE in it and wonder if I should dump it cause its cheap.
I need to do my SE-R and hate to spend that much for coolent but it looks like I will have to to protect the water pump.
You have a good point the timing chain should be changed soon as they may not last forever just like the pump.Forgive me if I don't agree that good service should give you 2/3 times the life. That is if it partly depends on fluids for lubrication.Now the aftermarket products don't last near as long I feel and always thought that way.My son is a Mechanic (Marine) and we argue all the time about things like that. He thinks a rebuilt motor is better than factory if done correctly.Sorry getting off the thread theam.
$29 a gallon? I feel much better now because I put Toyota Red in my 99' Altima a month ago. $13.88 a gallon isn't that bad after all.
Um... no offence but it was a 10+ year old water pump. It is not like water pumps are not known for failing (why do you think most people will replace a water pump when they change out their timing belt). I've used all three (Nissan, Old Green stuff, and Prestone LL) in my Nissan without issues.
But what do I know...
But what do I know...
By all means - if you're truly worried over pricing, it'll be the only peace of mind you get. Nevertheless, if it's Prestone Extended Life, it's a perfectly viable DEX-COOL clone - pure OAT corrosion protection in an ethylene glycol base, no silicates, no phophates. (In fact except for marker dye color, Prestone Extended Life in the yellow jugs is identical to Prestone's own GM licensed "DEX-COOL" in the gray jugs.) I'm using the same stuff labled as SuperTech Extended Life ($5.84/gallon and made by Prestone for Wal-Mart - how's that for cheap?). It's been in my Sonata V-6 for over a year now and is still absolutely transparent green. The original crap that Hyundai used as factory fill had just perceptably clouded at less than two years. My car's running cool with the SuperTech in spite of one of SoCal's warmer than average summers and constant use of the A/C. I'll probably change it out in another year "just 'cause", not because I really expect its protection to be depleted that soon. Before you blindly jump on the $29.00/gallon bandwagon, and if you're anti-DEX-COOL, might wanna consider Zerex G-05 - about $10.00/gallon at Pep Boys. HOAT (dual protection: OAT along with reduced levels of silicates) in an ethylene glycol base. I've not heard of any aftermarket antifreeze/coolants that duplicate the blend of OAT, phosphate, and ethylene glycol working chemistry found in Honda, Nissan, and Toyota antifreeze/coolants. Dunno why that is - you'd think by now someone would've begun marketing a reasonably priced "Japanese Formula" alternative to dealership parts department extortion.
I always felt that Dex-Cool was getting a bad rap. Then I used it in My 01 Nissan and 2 years later the heater core was corroded and the Classic "Dex-Brick" clogging occurred. My only coolants will now be the Toyota/Nissan brands. Expensive?? Yup. Worth it? Yup.
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Ray H,
I quiz you because from your writings you seem to be very knowledgeable when you write. This applies to a few others on this forum also. In October, 2004 I used Zerex G-05 when I changed the coolant in my two Sentras on the basis of your suggestion. I believe that to be a good choice.
I have another question. It took me a long time to do the drain, run, drain, run cycles with distilled water. I certainly wouldn't have used my household water through a hose at that time because I knew it had lots of lime and iron in it. We have since had a water softening system installed and our water quality is vastly improved. We also have an under the sink system that ionizes (or de-ionizes, whichever is correct) the water coming through it. It won't provide the rate of flow I would need to back-flush my cooling systems when I next need to change coolants.
Would it be possible, or reasonable, for me to back-flush with the softened water? It doesn't have the sediments and other stuff with its current treatment. I'd appreciate your word on this. I realize there could be something here I'm missing.
Others are welcomed to chime in on this also. I do most of my own work on my cars, but I also realize some of you guys can teach us a lot.
Thanks guys. FEN
I quiz you because from your writings you seem to be very knowledgeable when you write. This applies to a few others on this forum also. In October, 2004 I used Zerex G-05 when I changed the coolant in my two Sentras on the basis of your suggestion. I believe that to be a good choice.
I have another question. It took me a long time to do the drain, run, drain, run cycles with distilled water. I certainly wouldn't have used my household water through a hose at that time because I knew it had lots of lime and iron in it. We have since had a water softening system installed and our water quality is vastly improved. We also have an under the sink system that ionizes (or de-ionizes, whichever is correct) the water coming through it. It won't provide the rate of flow I would need to back-flush my cooling systems when I next need to change coolants.
Would it be possible, or reasonable, for me to back-flush with the softened water? It doesn't have the sediments and other stuff with its current treatment. I'd appreciate your word on this. I realize there could be something here I'm missing.
Others are welcomed to chime in on this also. I do most of my own work on my cars, but I also realize some of you guys can teach us a lot.
Thanks guys. FEN
The softened water is high in salt. That is how a water softner works, it exchanges calcium for salt.
The de-ionized water is very pure. I would use it. Just start bottling up a few gallons over the course of a few days so you will have enough to do the job.
Personally, I would start the flush with hose water and flush with it until the drain water is clear, then I would use the de-ionized water to displace as much of the hose water as possible before installing the new coolant. At least that is how I would do it if the old coolant was really bad.
The de-ionized water is very pure. I would use it. Just start bottling up a few gallons over the course of a few days so you will have enough to do the job.
Personally, I would start the flush with hose water and flush with it until the drain water is clear, then I would use the de-ionized water to displace as much of the hose water as possible before installing the new coolant. At least that is how I would do it if the old coolant was really bad.
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Thank you Big Jim. I appreciate that response. What you say seems to me to make good sense.
I did wonder about that salt. Anyway, you gave me something to go on and I appreciate it. FEN
I did wonder about that salt. Anyway, you gave me something to go on and I appreciate it. FEN
My problem with initial flushes with hose tap water is that it'll take an equivalent amount of distilled/de-ionized water flushing to rid the sytem of the tap water salinity, too. Might as well do all the flushing with distilled/de-ionized water to water-white clear* effluent in the first place to save time if you want to minimize salinity content to that of the phosphate content, if present, in the antifreeze-coolant concentrate. The expense is minimal - even if it takes five or six gallons of Wal-Mart distilled water, you're only "wasting" about $3.60 + tax or less.
*By the time the distilled/de-ionized water effluent is this tint-free, it's pure enough not to be any concern regarding corrosion promotion once you add your favorite antifreeze/coolant concentrate.
*By the time the distilled/de-ionized water effluent is this tint-free, it's pure enough not to be any concern regarding corrosion promotion once you add your favorite antifreeze/coolant concentrate.
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