Zerex Flush &/or cleaner( Na Gluconate, Nitrate, and HYDROXIDE!!) vs. Prestone(SAFE?)

[Ray H]

If you're draining water-white clear effluent with distilled water, you're probably good to go by now. And I want to re-emphasize that it was a big "IF" to presume that the glop was actually aluminum oxide. You can't get every last vestige of whatever was in the system out no matter how many times you flush. Even the factory couldn't when the engine was built. Didn't mean to scare you - just wanted to emphasize the importance of doing more than 1 or 2 casual flushes and presuming it was enough. If at all in doubt, now's the time to replace the pressure cap and thermostat, too.

 

[ChrisW]

Well, I looked up into the tiiiiny little drain hole on the radiator on this last flush, and the white stuff appears to be inside the radiator. Appears to be caked on, and not coming off with just water flushes (prob the stuff I'm seeing is floating around in the system); it seems the prestone cleaner did not get this stuff off. When I use the drain plug for the engine block, none of this white stuff appears in the drain water as it does from the radiator.

Radiator drains about 1.5 gallons and the engine block about 1 gallon, leaving about 1/2 gallon in the heater core and the rest of the engine, about 12.3 total. (I will account for this when filling with G 05).

When this stuff builds on the inside of the radiator, does this mean a improper coolant ratio on the previous fill?

I'm afraid the G 05 will clean this white stuff off the radiator core with time of and make the new coolant rather useless.

Well, if it comes to it, I will do another drain within the next six to twelve months, take out the radiator, and take it to a radiator shop here in town to get preofesionally cleaned.

BTW, the previa uses a remote pressure/overflow tank, so the radiator has no "cap" so to speak.

 

[Ray H]

Then, I don't know what that white glop is. Someone in another thread mentioned "hydrated aluminum oxide" - apparently NOT very abrasive. "Caked" does not sound good, though. Maybe time to have a radiator shop deal with it before you waste the bucks spent on the G-05? The pros have access to stronger chemistry than we usually do. What was used previously? Toyota antifreeze/coolant? That brings up (but by no means proves) the possibility of some sort of insoluble phosphate complex - if there even is such a thing.

(By the way, Chris, once the first three or so water flushes are completed, you don't have to worry about toxicity for remaining flushes you run. They'll be dilute enough (<10% antifreeze concentration) to dispose of safely on the lawn or the gutter.)

 

[ChrisW]

Well maybe not caked, but there is buildup on what appears to be the solder joints inside the radiator; you can only see so much through a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the radiator.

I'm worried that perhaps the radiator shop that my dad took it to 3 years ago to get replaced used tap water, and here in manteca, our tap water is well water.

The coolant was green, so im not sure if it was prestone green like or something else that just happened to be green.

Hmm time to call around and see how much the radiaotr shop charges to clean radiators; maybe i'll just fill it and see what happens.

 

[ChrisW]

Cool, so I just called a raditor shop and he said its normal to have some white deposits on the fins/tubes/solder joints.....just normal calcium deposits, so I assume that tap water was used when the shop did the repair about three years ago. He said as long as it doesn't overheat a little of white stuff is ok, I assume that means the core is not clogged or blocked.

Its about $80 or more to take off the ends and clean out the core/tank, he said, provided that its not rusted out. If its rusted out they may be able to do a rebuild or it might be better to get an all new radiator.


So imma drain this last flush and fill the zerex. The flush before this came out a lot clearer as far as white stuff is concerned.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisW:

So imma drain this last flush and fill the zerex. The flush before this came out a lot clearer as far as white stuff is concerned.

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You have done the right things. As long as it works right, just run it another year and repeat if you want be on the safe side. No need to take it to a radiator shop if next summer in Manteca shows you it is working right.

If you pull a radiator hose off the radiator, you should be able to see some of the radiator core and see if it looks at all restricted. Probably a waste of time though unless you haven't filled it yet.

 

[Ray H]

I'm on well water where I live, too. It's a #%$&* constantly dealing with calcified toilet bowl rings. Calcium carbonate deposits can be removed with a common household chemical in most pantries, but I'm unsure whether there'd be any liklihood of damage to other cooling system parts. A periodic cycle of diluted white vinegar works wonders in drip coffee makers. The Prestone cleaner and flushes use sodium citrate as the acid of choice, but same principle - use a circulating hot acid bath to dissolve the hardened calcium carbonate back into solution and then drain. Perhaps a dose of the faster working Prestone flush to dislodge and dissolve the remainder? As XS650 posted, you've done all the right things. Even if you stop where you are, you're still better off than before you started. And, yeah, I concur that the last shop to service that cooling system probably used "Manteca's Finest" well water. The green coolant that was in it was likewise probably good ol' silicated Prestone or one of its many generic competitive clones (some of which were undoubtedly made by Prestone and shipped in bulk for bottling and private labeling).

 

[ChrisW]

Welp, all things went well. I think there are still some micro air bubbles that need to bleed out before the level settles down for sure.

I think I'm going to like this Zerex G 05 based on what i've read about it hear, but man! It so clear its hard to tell what the level is in the remote overflow tank! But I bet this clearness helps in determining contamination as far as dirt etc.

Maybe next time, using the Ford/Motorcraft or the Chrysler version would be better because of its orange dye? Does anyone know if it comes from the dealer in concentrate or is it premixed?

Thanks for all your help guys. I will try and see about getting a pic of all the water bottles with the different stages/colors of the flush.

 

[Ray H]

Chrysler's G-05 is definitely dyed orange. I don't believe that's true for the Ford G-05, though. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.