Looking for a tap-in adaptor for Accusump

[sifan]

I am thinking of installing an Accusump 1 quart system. However, the Accusump does not have a tap-in adaptor made for my engine, which uses Mobil M1-103 oil filter. The specs for the oil filter is as fllowed:

O-ring diamaters: 2.46" outer, 2.14" inner
Threads: 3/4-16

The tap-in adaptor requires single 1/2" NPT port. Does anyone know such adaptor exist on the market?

 

[slalom44]

You may want to use a sandwich adapter for your oil filter. You can pick up one with a 1/2" NPT fitting that will work with your Accusump.

Unfotunately, Perma-Cool adapters have a 3/8" NPT fitting, so they won't work. I found that the billet adapters sold by Canton Racing Products have a 1/2" NPT fitting. They're going to be more expensive ($55.00). You might want to search around to see if there are other options.

If you're just using the Accusump as a preluber, you may want to consider tapping into your oil pressure sender port. It will likely be a lot smaller (1/8" NPT), but it will be enought to pressurize your system. You'll have to add a tee fitting to keep your pressure switch or gauge operational, and an adapter to go from 1/8" to 1/2" NPT.

 

[slalom44]

You may want to give the guys a call at Batinc.net and see if the sandwich adapter they sell for the Accusump will work for you.

I've bought some stuff from Batinc, and they are pretty good to deal with.

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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I am concerning that attaching a large hose with 1/2" NPT fitting plus a reducer plus a tee fitting plus the oil pressure sensor would be putting too much stress to the oil pressur sensor port.

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You just can't use brass fittings to screw into the block. You need stainless steel. Reduce the hose on the Accusump at the unit to 1/4 or 1/8" hose.

Relieve your anxiety.

 

[mjo]

quote:

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I am concerning that attaching a large hose with 1/2" NPT fitting plus a reducer plus a tee fitting plus the oil pressure sensor would be putting too much stress to the oil pressur sensor port.

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I recommend my own layout . This allows the simplest connection to the block; therefore less strain on the threads in the block, less leaks, and easier removal whenever necessary. Rubber grommets are the key to holding the fittings snug inside a metal jig. These are cheap (less than $1 each) and very effective at dampening vibrations, thus your npt fittings "clamped down" in these grommets will not leak even when you use the regular liquid teflon sealant.

 

[mjo]

quote:

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You just can't use brass fittings to screw into the block. You need stainless steel

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How come? I've used brass fittings and they work just fine for now. I would think that the sealant between the threads in the adapter would prevent the normal corrosion that occurs over long periods of time between two dissimilar metals.

 

[sifan]

I have talked to an Accusump dealer and Canton Racing Products that their smallest tap-in adaptor for Toyota is one size to big for my car.

I am concerning that attaching a large hose with 1/2" NPT fitting plus a reducer plus a tee fitting plus the oil pressure sensor would be putting too much stress to the oil pressur sensor port.

 

[Gary Allan]

Sure you can use brass fittings. But if you've ever see any thpe of vibration or shear force you'll be sitting there with an easy out due to the snapped off threaded part of a VERY soft brass fitting. Stainless won't do this. It can be bent or crushed before it will shear in most cases. This has happened with hi-per engines that have used this type of setup (SBC with any type of rumpa cam) for one fellow that I know..so much that he abandoned the preoiler.

I was mainly addressing his "weight" issue with the monster 1/2" line reduced down to a 1/8" NPT. You would have a LARGE MASS wagging a small fitting. That's why I followed up with recommending the line reduction to be compatable with the 1/8" connection.

 

[sifan]

I just bought an Accusump 1-qt pre-oil kit, and plan to connect to the oil pressure sender port by using a tee connector.

Where can I find stanless connector as Gally Allan suggested? Also what kind of fittings do I need to reduce the 1/2" hose at Accusump to 1/4" one? Will it be ok to use 1/4" rubber hose for this application?

 

[Gary Allan]

Stainless steel fittings aren't usually carried by plumbing houses ..nor Home Depot. McMaster has them ..but you'll be paying S&H on one part.

Regular steel will work well. Just paint it before installation. The main problem that others (that I know) have encountered is the weight placed on the brass thread in the engine and the vibration of the engine. If a "street" T is available, that may be the way to go (street fittings have one male thread and two female threads.

For reduction, you need a 1/2" to 1/4" or 1/8" "bushing" (sometimes called a bushing reducer) (male 1/2" threads and 1/4" or 1/8" female threads.

You then decide on if you're going to use hose barbes ..or something more sophisticated (hose barbs work for me). If you go with hose barbs, they will most likely be brass (not to worry)

Most of this (all maybe) should be available at The Home Depot. The hose should be avaiable at any NAPA.

 

[sifan]

Gary -

Wow! Thanks for the explanation with nice pictures.

You mentioned a "street" T is ok. I have one that came with Frantz bypass filter kit, but it is made of brass. In this case, is it ok to use this one instead of stainless?

You stanless tee connecter shown in your picture will be difficult to install because of its configuration. Is there a stainless "street" T connector available?

 

[Gary Allan]

Would it work better for you if it looked like this

There are thousands of people who use the brass parts without difficulty. Some, in higher vibration/high stress (weight of lines, etc.) situations, have run into issues of the brass parts eventually breaking off. In my observations this has been mainly higher performance engines that have a decent "radical" element to thier DNA.

 

[sifan]

That is the picture I am looking for. I will go for the stainless one. Many thanks.

 

[Jim 5]

Very useful info about fittings, especially the issues concerning brass/stainless/steel.

Thanks for the contributions!