Gulf Coast Bypass Filter

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Ralph,

I understand now. I didn't realize that the sandwich adapter setup would depend on the bypass valve opening for oil to get to the full flow filter. That certainly makes sense since the by-pass filter will definitely slow the oil flow down. Using the bypass valve in this manner sort of freaks me out but I value your many years of experience with these things.

On a similar note I was doing an oil change on this vehicle this weekend (4.6L Ford in Crown Vic Police Intercepter if you dont' remember). This car has a factory oil cooler setup. The cooler lines come up to the factory oil filter adapter. I found a threaded plug in the side of the housing where the oil lines attatch to the adapter. I'm sure I can remove the threaded plug and use this port to feed the bypass filter. This would be ideal in my mind.

The return would most likely still go to the oil fill cap or the valve cover.

Thanks again for your help. I'm starting to get a much clearer picture now of how I want to do this.
 
What I have been successful at doing is getting people interested in bypass filters. Then I hope that they do research anbd come up with their own conclusions about which system is best for their application. All bypass filters have things I like and things I don't like. The Motor Guard submicronic bypass filter has more things I like and less things I don't like. If you look at my equipment you will see three different kinds of filters on coolant, ATF, fuel, lube oil and compressed air. I know which ones spill when I open them. Which ones can take the most pressure before leaking. It's not that I am so smart it is because I have used them for 40 years.
It may be rare for oil to find it's way down through the head or valley and onto a rod journal and get thrown up into a cylinder where the rings can't wipe it off fast enough but the chance is there. This can also happen if you return the oil to the oil pan above the oil level and onto a crankshaft. I had one customer that returned the oil to the fill neck on his AMC jeep engine. He ended up with his air cleaner full of oil. I suspect his PCV valve was plugged and blow by was blowing an oil mist up into the air cleaner.
Most bypass filter companies will tell you to stay away from the valve cover. I'm liable to do anything with my own equipment. I'm going to assume that when I ship someone a filter they have a leaky valve cover gasket, leaky valve guide seals. Too much blow by etc. It didn't make sense for the Peugeot to run away. I didn't return the oil near the crankcase ventilation valve. Since it was OK before I installed the filter I could only assume I screwed up. I installed a Frantz sandwich adapter when I got back to the shop. In those days I installed sandwich adapters when it was too difficult to install the filter in the conventional way.
These days I install the filter in the conventional way when I can't use the adapter.
I am answering a man that wants a Motor Guard on a BMW with the canister oil filter. I want to go back to American cars and VW air cooled Beetles.
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In 1963 life was simple.
My experience is mostly with Frantz, Motor Guard and Gulf Coast. They all use a 1/16" orifice. If you use a PermaCool or Frantz sandwich adapter you remove the orifice. The Peugeot was getting about one qt per minute through the Frantz bypass filter with the stock 1/16" orifice. The oil was Mobil 1 15-50. The sandwich adapter was a Frantz dual P/R-A #1753. In those days the Ford 3/4-16 thread adapters fit just about all Fords, Toyotas, Datsuns, Volvos, VW water cooled, etc. Then you had the odd threads like Honda, Mitsubishi, Peugeot, etc. Frantz had more choices than anyone. All Motor Guard had was what they called a converter that allowed you to toss the almost useless full flow filter.
The Motor Guard is all I sell now. It does it all. The only limitation it has is size. It is slightly larger than a roll of toilet paper. Toilet paper is a better filter than paper towels. The only reason paper towels are so good is they throttle the oil thru a 1/16 orifice and the oil soaks thru the element. If you used six M-30 Motor Guards in parallel fed thru a 1/16" orifice it would be an awsome filter but it would be expensive. The only customer I have that uses multiple Motor Guards is a marine diesel mechanic. He uses the PermaCool adapter. Motor Guard doesn't deal with individuals any more. I'm the only one that adapts them to hot lube oil and fuel. As far as literature all I have is a 30 year old report from Dune Buggies and Hot VW's and Camper Coachman Magazine. Motor Guard survived by going commercial with 0.01 compressed air filters.
The old Motor Guard lube oil filters people are finding on Ebay are designed for 1 1/2 ID TP. I set up the M-30 for 1 5/8 ID TP. The special Motor Guard element will work if you remove the polyetheylene core and replace it with a TP core. TP works just as well for lube oil. Commercial customers get the M-30 compressed air filters from commercial dealers such as McMaster-Carr at www.mcmaster.com M-30 is 9841K91 elements are 0941K93. They use polypropylene parts which swell in hot motor oil or fuel. I use Dupont Delrin sized to fit 1 5/8" paper. My parts are CNC machined instead of injection molded.
I have some pictures on my website. As far as diagragms I don't have much on the Motor Guard. They are all similar. I make design changes then I check with the Motor Guard engineers before selling them. They have to make a profit, I don't. It's my hobby.
I would rather talk to you guys about filters than go fishing. It's less expensive than a bass boat.
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Ralph
 
Thanks Ralph for the explanation - this is great info. as I personally would have not considered these potential problems.
 
I don't do many installations anymore. I did a new Chevy 350 pickup with a factory oil cooler similar to the Ford. It had a 3/8" pipe plug in the aluminum adapter that I used for pressure.
I sold a Motor Guard submicronic bypass filter to a guy with a one ton Ford with a 460 engine with an oil cooler probable similar to yours. He installed it himself using a sandwich adapter. There was a lot of room under the filter.
I once had a 1955 Studebaker with the factory installed bypass filter. It had the return port installed in the fill neck. I returned the oil to the fill neck on my 6.9 Ford diesel. On a Ford Ranger Splash with a V6 I returned the oil to the valve cover right next to the fill neck.
On a Chevy small block I went exactly in the middle of the valve cover. I don't want people on the forum to think that they can just return the oil to the valve cover without thinking abouth rocker arms, valves, and crankcase ventilation.
I just did a Dodge 360 engine with a PermaCool 181 adapter.

Ralph
 
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