Would you -or- Should you..."?"

[SandyL]

We've been working on freeing-up a seized engine and have a couple of questions.

When using any of the penetrating oils, if left long enough for the volatiles to evaporate and nothing's been broken loose, what (if anything) could-or-should be used to restore the product to its original viscosity?

In other words; If a product is designed to be 'thin' enough to penetrate, once the carrier fluid evaporates, could-or-should something be used to restore the product to something closer to its original viscosity? i.e.: Acetone or other similar carrier?

Also, of the penetrating fluids most often mentioned on this Board (LC@70/30, PB, Kroil, etc.), is there a benefit to insuring that each product has a chance to work on its own, or could there be benefits to leaving the still-liquid residue from one when introducing another?

In other words; If we put one product into a stuck cylinder, should we be careful to remove as much as possible (using Brake Cleaner, or similar) before trying another product?

This is a long-term project, so individual products will be left for a couple of weeks and agitated every couple of days. Given that some will (hopefully!) leak by and some elements will evaporate out stuck-open valves, do we just keep on adding product on top of product, or should we clean out whatever leftover liquid is left?

Thanks to all for your time and expertise!

SandyL

 

[MAJA]

I dont think you need to clean one product out before using another. But I personally would continue to use one product until it frees up. Any, and every one will most likely do the job eventually. It may come to the point that you will need to take off the head and pound on the top of the piston with a block of wood and hammer.

 

[Steve S]

What about the dangers of additive clash?

 

[SandyL]

MAJA: Usually, I'd be out there tearing-down and going right at the project. This time, I'm doing my best to try out that.....what's it called....."patience" thing! I've decided to give chemical methods until the weather starts to turn warmer, but do intend to drop the pan and pull the head before going any further. This will be done before any attempts at 'running', even 'if' it breaks-loose.

Steve S: -That's one of my concerns. The additives are not listed, so I can't be sure. I wouldn't expect that there's anything acid based, due to there being no warning labels about anything other than ingestion. I'm thinking that our method of agitation (using a priming bulb and clear hose, drawing fluid out, then 'blasting' it back in) will at least allow us to see the condition/color/clarity of any fluid mixture.

I am curious how many components in these products flash-off within X hours/days of exposure to air. I expect there should be more than just the carrier fluid. If components that do the actual 'chewing' into the rust evaporate, I'm better off cleaning the residue out and refreshing.

Thanks for the replies!

SandyL