Second coat of wax?

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I just waxed my Civic Hybrid today after having some rust spots taken care of by the dealership.
The colour match was perfect so I was really pleased with the way it turned out. I know some would wait three months before aplying wax but I have alot of trees and hence birds around me just waiting to bomb any clean car they see.
Does a second coat of wax protect the finsih better than one or does the second coat remove the first coat? I used Meg. Gold Class on it.
 
You should be able to layer the Gold Class. As far as I know, the formula doesn't contain any polish/cleaner which is what would remove the first coat. To be sure, read the back of the bottle.
 
You misunderstood, check the bottle for references to "cleeaners" which it may or may not contain. If it is a "cleaner-wax" type of wax, you can't layer it as applying a second layer removes part of the first layer. If it's just a "pure" wax, then you can likely add a second or third coat without stripping off the first.
 
Meguiars Gold Class contains no cleaners and can be layered. However, layering a wax is not worth it. The second and subsequent coats give you little, if any, added good looks and protection. Its much better to wax twice as often than to put on two coats at the same time.
 
jmacmaster is correct...layering provides little to no benifit. May be it will look better after the second coat, that just means your paint was in rough shape to begin with. It does not however, add any more protection.

And FYI - if you can prove waxes or sealents "cure", your a better man than I! Cause to the best of my knowledge, only carnuba has the abilty to, at times, "melt" into clear coats micro imperfections. All the others form a shell like layer, that does not "cure" after removal of dried haze.
 
Layering does provide benifits, especially when layering different products such as polish, sealant, waxes on top of each other...now if you cant see the benifit of that then I cant help you, as each product brings something different to the table(surface). I think maybe adding a second layer of wax maybe debatable, but not really, and my paint isnt in bad shape but yet it does look better after giving the first layer of wax time to cure, your only going to build the layers up so much, so given time to cure you can add more.

And about proving waxes/sealants/polishes cure is easy...just add too many layers, it gets all goopey and thick on the wipe down, but had you given it time to cure removal would have been as difficult or messy. How was that?

[ September 19, 2006, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: ShortBuSX ]
 
Try some NuFinish. It lasts longer then anything and it also protects against rust and road chemicals more so then most other waxes/polishes.
Here is my Z28 with a fresh coat of NuFinish:
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The directions say to apply the 2nd coat 30 days after the 1st. My Camaro's paint will still be beading water and feel slick like it was waxed for about 10 months in Colorado weather.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ShortBuSX:
Layering does provide benifits, especially when layering different products such as polish, sealant, waxes on top of each other...now if you cant see the benifit of that then I cant help you, as each product brings something different to the table(surface). I think maybe adding a second layer of wax maybe debatable, but not really, and my paint isnt in bad shape but yet it does look better after giving the first layer of wax time to cure, your only going to build the layers up so much, so given time to cure you can add more.

And about proving waxes/sealants/polishes cure is easy...just add too many layers, it gets all goopey and thick on the wipe down, but had you given it time to cure removal would have been as difficult or messy. How was that?


Below is my half my post from another thread in the same topic heading with thw addition of the order you apply products. Its critical to a long lasting exterior detail.

#1, Pre-cleaner or cleaner wax.
#2, Polish and/or Scratch swirle remover.
#3, Sealent/wax/glaze should always be last.

WAX and SEALANT and GLAZE are one and the same. There are cleaner waxes, and sealent wax...etc. All depends on the formula, and each is applied the same. I guess markerters didnt want to call synthetic sealent and glaze, as WAX. Sealant is for the anti-carnauba wax crowd. And pure carnuba is technically and by definition...a sealant. GLAZE is just another name tossed in to the detailers dictionary, with nearly the same definition as above. Typically, IMO it is carnuba that can "melt" into the paint a bit, where synthetic versions form a hard coating on top the clear coat.

POLISH, can also be called PRE-WAX CLEANER always has abrasives to remove scratches, swirls, and oxidation.
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You should never polish a car after you wax/seal a car.
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Polish and Pre-Cleaners are not designed to last long and will strip off any wax/sealent/glaze.

There are some exceptions for Pro formulas...and believe me, they are much different than off the shelf versions.
 
You just keep on believin all that then. Besides that, your #1 #2 and #3 kinda contradict the rest of your statement.

Pre cleaner isnt the same as polish, but I recon you could use a polish as a not so effective "cleaner"...polish adds fats to the paint.

"WAX and SEALANT and GLAZE are one and the same." NOT! Ive got a Meguiars "Glaze" thats more of a fine polish and nothing similar to a wax or sealant.

Sealants are synthetic, I wouldnt call that a wax, many say it offers no protection but I wouldnt wax a car without using a sealant first, makes washing bugs and stuff off so much easier but Id layer a wax on top.

Anyways, I dont really understand why you used my quote and then posted your misinformation below it, I addressed your statement about "curing" as well as layering providing benifits. Your 1,2,3 doesnt even counter my statment, I kinda even supports it in a misinformed manor.

A second layer of wax does have benifits.
 
LOL...your just making stuff up and using your oppinion as fact. Have you done any research at all before spouting off?

Your quote was used because you implied you may be applying polish over a sealent or wax. Its not harmfull, but makes no sense at all.

I have 10+ years expericance in the detail business, I have a lot of oppinions but I tried to stick to things I can back up, and some are easy and some more difficult to back up. Much of what I've learned has been in training seminars.

Much of what I've stated can be backed up. Some comments do sound contradicting, and many consumer based products VERY MUCH are per their labeling and names used. What proof would you like? (Be specific.)

Otherwise I will agree to highly disagree with your statements, and leave it at that.
 
You know, re-reading all this again I would back off one thing. Includeing GLAZE together with WAX and SEALANT.

Your right on the money when you said Glaze is a fine polish. However, some include sealants/wax and some do not at all. Glaze is a tricky label.
 
You know, Im not gonna try and compair whos Schwartz is bigger...Ive done my research, I know the product I use(all Meguiars) and I too have done detailing for over a decade. You said "prove waxes or sealents "cure""...and Ive done that. I appreciate that you gave me credit on the "Glaze"...but really learn your product because you are seriously misinformed.

And if Im so wrong the show me that a sealant is the SAME as a wax...show me a polish is the same as a paint cleaner(next time you try and clean something, rub some fat on it! Tell me how clean it gets.) Try using a polish on a white vehicle instead of a paint cleaner!

I just dont understand how you can stand behind those statements...and whats worse is you site experience and research, and then imply that I must have gotten my knowledge from my use of "consumer based products"...give me a break.

BTW, a sealant is synthetic...now tell me how a WAX is the same.(although there are synthetic waxes)...and besides the 2 a visually different...I just dont understand how you can stand behind your statements without backing them up with any relivent info other than your "experience" with "professional products"...if youd like to just explain or show proof that those are the same Id read it, maybe a pro like you could learn me something...but I think Id just like to see something that supports your statements as they are rather unorthodox.
 
I usually wax twice a month, not cause I think it needs it, but because I like to do it. And it doenst hurt a thing to layer the stuff, I use all Meguiars too. Ive even mixed the Medallion with some Gold Glass and some Yellow 26, it looked the same, dried the same, just smelled like banana's.
 
Ok ShortBuSX, you asked for it.
And I'll start with information taken right off your favorite manufactures web site!!! Too funny.

http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?faqCat=Paint Care&faqQuestionID=51&section=_51#_51

http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?fa...section=_13#_13

http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?fa...section=_14#_14

http://www.motortrend.com/features/car_care/112_9903_paint_care_products/index.html

http://www.motortrend.com/features/car_care/112_0004_paint_myths_and_reality/index.html



http://www.turtlewax.com/


Q: What is the difference between a wax and a polish?
A: The terms wax and polish are used interchangeably today. Most waxes and polishes contain some mild cleaning agents (safe for clear coat finishes) which remove old wax, minor scratches and everyday oxidation. All polish and wax products clean, shine and protect, unless otherwise stated on the label. A polishing compound or compound will clean and shine only. As always recommended, test a small inconspicuous area and always follow the back label instructions.

Q: How many coats of wax/polish should I apply ... will additional coats provide better protection?
A: Applying additional coats of wax at one time is not necessary, however, a second coat may assure protection in the areas you may have missed. A second coat of wax will add shine to older finishes. We consider regular, average car care to include applying a coat of wax 3-4 times a year. Remember, today's harsh environmental factors require more frequent waxing, especially if your vehicle is highly exposed to these conditions.


http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa...RRF0YMAORKDc78F



http://www.superiorcarcare.net/which-wax-is-best.html

Natural wax is typically engineered from a substance called Carnauba. This wax is derived from the tropical plant called Copernica Cerifera and is as hard as a brick in its natural form. Because of the natural repellency of wax, this Brazilian plant is able to direct water flow from rainfall to its root structure. Many forms of flora have relied on natural wax to protect them from life threatening viruses, and you will find that it is equally useful in shielding your paint from contaminants. It should also be noted that natural wax is breathable: another plus for your paintjob. Companies that advertise bold statements such as ‘Contains 100% Carnauba Wax!’ are referring to the purity of the carnauba wax contained in the product, not the product as a whole. Without the addition of naphtha, petroleum distillates and other oils, this product would not be smooth enough to work its wonders on your vehicle. Therefore, the highest actual amount of carnauba in any given concoction is a delicate balance between many positive factors, and because of carnaubas natural denseness, only about 30% of it can fit workably into a product. Carnauba itself is harvested in Brazil, and different levels of purity exist. Yellow wax is reputably the highest achievable grade of wax available, and is used by the highest paying industries. Pinnacle Souveran goes one step above and beyond by refining the yellow wax into an ultra pure ivory wax. Other premium carnauba waxes include P21S Concours Wax and DP Max Wax.

The Synthetic Revolution

Synthetic waxes are the heavily advertised paint sealants that will protect your paint for an extended period of time. A coating of these products will serve as a field of pollutant- repelling armor. Although there is no real way to replicate the complexity of natural carnauba wax, there is always room to improve upon perfection. By selectively enhancing the appropriate qualities, chemists have formulated a substance that offers an enhanced amount of protection that is easier to apply. Aficionados will agree that paint sealants do not provide the same showroom brilliance as carnauba, but it is just as easily agreed that sealants have a “hard-as-glass” elegance of their own. A vehicle displaying a coat of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is enough to awe any nonbeliever into joining the ranks of synthetic wax users. If you are drawn to synthetic wax for the promise of long lasting protection, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze is renowned for its ability to defend your vehicle for up to a year. This is perfect for anyone who wants a lasting, admirable shine that requires little upkeep.

Which wax is the best?

Spotting the differences between these two wonderful applications is a talent that will come from exposure and experience. When it comes right down to it, you have to look at the hard facts. All natural carnauba wax offers an unutterably beautiful, liquid shine that cannot be replicated, but it must be reapplied more frequently than synthetic waxes. Synthetic wax on the other hand, measures up pound-for-pound with its affordable, lasting protection. However, there is no law that states both of these processes cannot exist in harmonious wedlock. Some connoisseurs have taken matters into their own ambitious hands by blending both procedures. This will exploit the greatest qualities displayed by either wax. To do this, apply a coat of synthetic sealant first, but allow it set for an ample amount of time. When all signs are clear, begin waxing as normal using Wolfgang German Polish N’ Wax Applicators to make the job go smoothly. The Wolfgang German Applicators are intricately designed to provide cutting light foam on one side, and a soft, finishing foam on the other. This is great for laying and sweeping the excess wax with one fine tool.
 
Consumer Reports

The difference between wax and polish

At one time, wax and polish described two different products. Polish was a slightly abrasive product, used to buff out small scratches and brighten faded paint. Wax was more of a sealant, used to improve shine and provide a layer of protection. These days, the words wax and polish are used interchangeably by makers of the products. Both describe a product that provides a glossy and protective coating, and may or may not remove oxidation and embedded contaminants. Products labeled cleaner wax may be somewhat abrasive and can actually remove some paint from the surface of the vehicle. Care should be used with these products, especially on newer dark-colored cars. Check your vehicle owner’s manual for advice on cleaning your car.




http://sonus-usa.com/car-detailing-chemicals-guide.html

Paint Polish
Many people mistakenly think that waxing is what makes a car look good. While it's true that a quick coat of wax will make a car shine for a while, it's polishing that really makes paint look sharp.

Choose a polish that matches your car's needs. If your car is new, chances are that it simply needs a good paintwork cleaner with mild polishing capability. If your car has swirl marks or water spots, choose a formula that specifically addresses these issues. Never use a polish that's more abrasive than required to do the job. Make no mistake, paint polishes do remove fine layers of paint or clearcoat. A fine polish can be used for years without noticeably reducing paint or clearcoat thickness. A coarse polish, such as a rubbing compound, will rapidly reduce paint or clearcoat thickness.

Last Step Products (Wax)
The last step in paint finish care is waxing. Wax is a protective substance, natural or synthetic, that provides a thin layer of protection over painted or polished metal surfaces. Waxes can be paste, cream or liquid. A pure wax does not contain solvents or abrasives for cleaning like a cleaning wax. Many people mistakenly assume the term pure wax means that the wax contains nothing but pure carnauba wax or pure beeswax, but this is not the case. All waxes are blends of different substances.
Synthetic waxes, often called sealants, serve the same purpose as natural waxes. However, they are often formulated with superior durability. Most commonly, synthetic waxes contain polymers or acrylic compounds to create a sophisticated surface coating with exceptional gloss and slickness.
Ask any professional or enthusiast detailer which is better, wax or sealant, and you're likely to get something that sounds like a sermon. Detailers, both professional and enthusiast, can be quite passionate about their choice of wax.


Carnauba Wax
Carnauba comes from the fronds of the "tree of life" (Copernicia cerifera) native to Brazil. It is nature's hardest, purest and most transparent wax. Carnauba car waxes tend to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine that is often described as "three-dimensional."
Many enthusiasts and show car owners prefer the shine of carnauba waxes, especially on black, red and other dark colors. Carnauba waxes bead water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain, and hide minor swirls in the paint. My personal favorite is P21S, a true show car wax.

On the minus side, carnauba waxes are not as durable as synthetic waxes. Depending on your climate, a carnauba wax might last between 30 and 60 days. Additionally, some carnauba waxes can be temperamental, occasionally streaking under certain temperature or humidity conditions.
Synthetic Waxes
Made from modern polymers or acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer excellent durability and ease of application. Quality synthetic waxes have been known to last 6 to 9 months or longer, and typically wipe on and off very easily. Synthetic waxes create a very bright shine and rarely cloud or streak on the paint.


UNDERSTANDING POLISH
Before we can talk about polishing, we need to establish a common understanding of what polish is. The word polish is highly misused throughout the car care and appearance industry.
For our purposes, a paint polish is an abrasive lotion or cream used to remove small amounts of the paint's surface. The cutting ability of the polish will determine the amount of paint removed with each hand stroke or each revolution of a buffer, as well as the resulting finish. A fine polish will create a bright, glassy finish, whereas a coarse polish may cloud the paint's surface. Each polish is designed for a specific purpose (e.g., repair or refine) and application (e.g., hand or machine). Here's how I classify polishes:
Abrasive paper or pad - An ultra-fine grade of sandpaper (1200 to 3000 grit) can be used effectively to level a paint finish and remove imperfections. I mention sandpaper here because it is an abrasive, like all polishes, and it has its place in the polishing chain.
Compound - A compound, often called a rubbing compound, is a cutting polish designed to remove heavy oxidation, some common forms of paint damage and defects, and the scratches created by fine sandpaper.
Polish - A specially formulated blend of components designed to remove minor scratches, surface imperfections, water spots, acid rain spots, light oxidation, and the swirl marks created by compounding with a machine.
Glaze - A very fine polish. Some glazes are safe to use on fresh paint, as they do not seal. A glaze does not have enough cutting power to remove imperfections, but will increase surface gloss.
Pre-wax cleaner - A polish containing chemical cleaners to help remove minor surface contamination and dirt not handled by normal washing or claying.
 
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