Oxidized paint

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I believe the paint on my hood and cab has oxidized. What products are good to use? I think Mothers has a 2 or 3 product/procedure. Zaino has been highly praised here as well. I'd need it to be hand applicable as I don't have a buffer.
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Toy4x4
 
to remove oxidation, i would use meguiars medallion premium paint cleaner. It wont do much for swirls, but it will knock out oxidation. Another one would be meguiars dual action cleaner polish which is abrasive but will remove both oxidation and swirls. as for a wax system, i prefer the klasse twins, Zaino and platinum are great also. I would advise staying away from caranuba waxes, they aren't durable at all. The only durable caranuba is collinite fleetwax paste, but it cannot be bought in stores. Hope this helps.
 
I think wheeling it with some safe cut would work fine. Clear Coat rubbing compound on a cheap buffer also works well. If it is really mild some cleaner wax like Zymol Cleaner Wax, Meguirs or even Kit cleaner wax will do it. If you use a buffer and safe cut just keep moveing and you should not have any burning issues.
 
Try a product from 3M called Finish Restore. Its at Walmart in the auto section by the sandpaper, bondo, etc.. Its good stuff! Anything by 3M is good. You can finish it up with a wax or just leave it.

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Please say that there's something for oxidised metallic paint (the dealer I bought a used car off appears to have buffed rght through the clear coat - roof and bonnet are ****e).
 
I'd use a clay bar to remove embedded oxidation. It's not abrasive, it cleans like crazy, and it's safe on clear coat. It will also strip the paint of old wax. After the clay bar, you may want to use a light polish, if the finish is dull. Then follow with a good wax or polymer sealant. I like 'Klasse All-in One' best, but hear good things about 'Zaino' and '3M Imperial Hand Glaze.'

[ August 21, 2003, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: moribundman ]
 
I went to a Napa store and ended up talking to a guy who used to do paint and body work and has a show truck himself. He recommended (after looking at the truck) 3M's medium compound to remove all the junk and then Meguiar's #7 polish. He put a spot of the 3M on his finger and worked a small spot out. Needless to say that spot is the best looking paint on the hood! It is going to take quite a while to do as he recommended only doing about one square foot at a time and overlapping as I go so I don't have oxidized squares all over. The surface also cannot be hot.
Not looking forward to the job...only the end result
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quote:

Originally posted by Shannow:
Please say that there's something for oxidised metallic paint (the dealer I bought a used car off appears to have buffed rght through the clear coat - roof and bonnet are ****e).

Take a light polish or cleaner wax and test it on the area where you feel the dealer buffed thru the clearcoat. If you see the paint color on your applicator, the clearcoat is gone. If that is the case then I'm afraid there is no proper fix other than a respray of that area. The paint under the clear is very thin and will not withstand much polishing before it wears thru. Sorry.
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Just pent about 3.5 hours this morning on the hood and front fenders. I didn't apply enough pressure with the first round of the 3M compound and had to do it over. Then found a couple spots I'd missed and had to do those. Then applied Meguiar's #7 Polish and it looked very good. UNTIL...I got to work and noticed in the sunlight there was still oxidation around the windsheild sprayers and lines along where the hood and fenders meet.
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I'm going to have a Popeye right arm by the time I'm done
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I'm very happy, though, that the paint, so far (cab top is worse off), is not unsalvageable and looks almost new.
 
Woah.
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Your oxidation is so bad that he suggested the Medium Cut Compound? Yikes...

I don't have experience with this product, but sometimes products that strong will leave fine hazing behind. It's hidden (at least partially) by glazes such as that Meguiar's #7 he suggested, but they may show up again later if you let it go too long. For a more permantent fix to this (if you get it) you need another intermediate step of something mild like a swirl remover or maybe even one of those off the shelf pre-wax cleaners. Don't forget to wax it to protect your hard work.
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Finished the truck yesterday and it looks wonderful. After compounding the rest of the truck lightly (as compared to the hood), I used Meguiar's #7 and then Zymol (bottled stuff). Every sparkle in the paint shows up!
Bad news is the cab and shell tops need new paint
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. Sometime...

[ September 01, 2003, 02:11 AM: Message edited by: Toy4x4 ]
 
for any of you who actually want to machine polish without using a high speed rotary buffer, id suggest a porter cable 7424 dual action polisher. It can be picked up at lowes(7336 model there, but same thing) or you can get it cheap at coastal tool online. I say this because polishing takes too long by hand sometimes, and it will cut the time in half.
 
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