Anyone change spark plugs on a Ford 3L Duratec engine ?. The front 3 plugs are cake, but the rear three are buried ,can't even see them. They seem buried under the plastic intake manifold, do you have to remove the intake manifold to swap plugs ?, seems like a ton of work if that is the way to do it. I wonder if there are any gaskets that would get replaced during the process ?,I guess torque specs are crucial in reassembling the parts. Man what a pain in the butt design. Any info would be appreciated. thanks
Changing Spark Plugs on 3L Ford Duratec Engine....How To ?
- Thread starter Idrinkmotoroil
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I know of two forums with a write-up but I'm not sure if i'm allowed to post it. I haven't changed the spark plugs in our Escape yet but you have to take off the intake to change the back ones. It Ford thats all I can say, they like to make things difficult. The 3.0L Duratec's should be easier than changing plugs on a 5.4L Triton. And you will need replacement gaskets.
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense to me. If you have a chance maybe you can pm me the links to the write ups, it would be very helpful. thanks very much.
This job takes a little bit of skill. Here's a synopsis:
You will have to remove the [upper] intake manifold to access the rear plugs. There are 6 gaskets beween the upper and lower IM's. The TB and EGR each have gaskets between them and the IM as well.
Start by removing the intake tube and the TB.
There are a couple of wiring harnesses and coolant hoses connected to the TB. When you're pulling off the lower coolant hose, be very careful. On my car, that hose leads to a plastic T-fitting which snaps very easily - it costs between $60 & $80 to replace.
After that, you can undo the 3 bolts for the EGR valve. Then pull the vacuum lines off. At this point, you're almost ready to remove the IM.
Before you wrestle the IM off (no exaggeration), you may have to unhook a few wiring harnesses.
There are 8 bolts that secure the upper intake manifold to the lower IM. Those bolts remain attatched to the intake manifold.
Once the IM is off, it's a walk in the park.
Do not to overtighten ANYTHING. I stripped one of the threads for the coil-on-plug. It barely took any force to do it, so beware.
Before you start, consider the following:
Seafoam treatment? I should have done one. This is what my lower intake looked like:
http://i8.tinypic.com/25i4u4w.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/25znocj.jpg
My upper IM was also very dirty. I used a can foaming engine degreaser to clean that out.
Carb cleaner in the TB.
http://i5.tinypic.com/29gcwpi.jpg
Also, while you're back there, you could replace your PCV. Cheap insurance.
If you REALLY love your car, use electric component cleaner & di-electric grease on every wiring harness you can reach.
You will have to remove the [upper] intake manifold to access the rear plugs. There are 6 gaskets beween the upper and lower IM's. The TB and EGR each have gaskets between them and the IM as well.
Start by removing the intake tube and the TB.
There are a couple of wiring harnesses and coolant hoses connected to the TB. When you're pulling off the lower coolant hose, be very careful. On my car, that hose leads to a plastic T-fitting which snaps very easily - it costs between $60 & $80 to replace.
After that, you can undo the 3 bolts for the EGR valve. Then pull the vacuum lines off. At this point, you're almost ready to remove the IM.
Before you wrestle the IM off (no exaggeration), you may have to unhook a few wiring harnesses.
There are 8 bolts that secure the upper intake manifold to the lower IM. Those bolts remain attatched to the intake manifold.
Once the IM is off, it's a walk in the park.
Do not to overtighten ANYTHING. I stripped one of the threads for the coil-on-plug. It barely took any force to do it, so beware.
Before you start, consider the following:
Seafoam treatment? I should have done one. This is what my lower intake looked like:
http://i8.tinypic.com/25i4u4w.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/25znocj.jpg
My upper IM was also very dirty. I used a can foaming engine degreaser to clean that out.
Carb cleaner in the TB.
http://i5.tinypic.com/29gcwpi.jpg
Also, while you're back there, you could replace your PCV. Cheap insurance.
If you REALLY love your car, use electric component cleaner & di-electric grease on every wiring harness you can reach.
Ford sells a terminal grease that is somehow better than silicone dielectric grease for low-voltage connections.
At least I've been able to determine that it glows under a UV light and it's not as viscous, making it easier to inject into a terminal.
At least I've been able to determine that it glows under a UV light and it's not as viscous, making it easier to inject into a terminal.
The Duratec is used in several Ford vehicles. I know that with my '02 Sable all I have to do is remove the passenger side plastic cowling at the base of the windshield, remove 3 screws holding the coil pack in place and then I can change rear spark plugs. Removing the intake mainifold (even just the upper) is a good way to introduce air leaks if you aren't very careful.
Techs I used to work with un-bolted the top engine mount on the 3.1 and pried it forward in the Grand Prix / Cutlass to change the rear plugs. I just THOUGHT that was a pain til I read this thread.
I cannot speak for ALL Duratec 30's, but I can speak for the one in my 2004 Mazda 6. There are no shortcuts to access the rear cylinder bank. At least not that I know of.
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