Spark plug change on Subaru Outback

[ebc]

Greetings,
I had planned to change the platinum plugs on our 1998 Legacy Outback (2.5L) until I found that no wrench I could imagine could get down in that recess without raising the engine. Am I missing something or should I just make an appointment with the dealer?

Thanks,
ebc

 

[swjohnsey]

By playin' with a combination of extention lengths including a 1" extension I was finally able to get the plugs in with only a little blood shed.

 

[Norm Olt]

You think an Outback has plug issues?

You oughta' see the drill for replacing the 6 plugs on a SVX!

Remove the air cleaner assy (on the passenger side) & the battery and tray on the driver's side:
now get your coil packs off, then start to decide just which combinations of socket & extensions you are going to use... You DO have 1/4" drive ratchets, don't you?

Actually, it only took an inordinate amount of time the 1st time: keep good notes!

Cheers!

 

[Al]

quote:

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Originally posted by Norm Olt:
Actually, it only took an inordinate amount of time the 1st time:

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Yea, ain't it amazing how well a job goes the second time around. Also its interesting when you have a job that you think is impossible to manipulate, your fingers "lean" how to do it.

 

[Eddie]

Quite easy really. You should remove the air inlet stuff to the air box and the windshield washer bottle. I use a 3/8" flex-head ratchet and a 4 inch? extension. A spark plug socket with a rubber or magnetic insert. The boots are difficult the first time. Grab only the boot head and not the wire. twist & pull hard. When reinstalling the boots, coat the outside only with diaelctric grease or silicon to make it easy the next time.

 

[sprintman]

Put NGK Iridiums in. the best plug going period. Immediately smoother running. My Outback and Mazda 626 Turbo (GT) have them. The ones in the Mazda have done 60-80,000kms and still runs like new.

 

[Jimbo]

I have wondered if the Sub OHC flat six is as much of a pain to change plugs as a Porsche 911 and I guess the answer is yes. My new Toyota came with 120,000mile iridiums, so that would be the way to go on these difficult engines.

 

[M3 Mitch]

Particularly if you plan to leave the plugs in for a very extended period, put some good anti-seize (I like the German Wurth) on the threads, and put some of the correct silicone grease (just a bit of it) on the insulator so the plug wire does not stick to it.

In my 4-cyl 2.2L Legacy, the plug access is not so good.

And, when you find a job is difficult, don't immediately turn to a dealer - the mechanics there are not necessarily better than you are, they tend to work under time pressure, and it' aint' their car...

 

[road_rascal]

quote:

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Originally posted by M3 Mitch:
Particularly if you plan to leave the plugs in for a very extended period, put some good anti-seize (I like the German Wurth) on the threads, and put some of the correct silicone grease (just a bit of it) on the insulator so the plug wire does not stick to it.

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Not to hijack the thread, but is there really a difference in brands of anti-seize? I've been using the Permatex stuff for years without any problems. Just curious...

 

[oilyriser]

Wrap some friction tape around the wide part of your extensions so it's easier to grab the edge and pull them out once you loosen the plugs. My first time only took three hours. My fingers felt normal after a few more hours.

 

[Titan]

Yikes. I have two of these engines. Don't look forward to this struggle. The good thing is, with two, maybe I'll do it often enough that I won't forget the tricks between changes!

 

[sprintman]

NGK Iridiums are good for 100,000kms. Forget changes!

 

[Winston]

On most cars NGK Iridiums aer good for 100k miles, not just 100,000 kilometers.

 

[Sparkman]

This job is much easier from underneath!!!! I don't remove anything except the mud guards on either side that attach near the bottom of the radiator. Getting the plug wires out is by far the toughest part, last time I did it I destroyed the wires.

 

[ebc]

Greetings,
I did this job yesterday. Used the Iridium plugs. With the car up on ramps, I removed the washer tank, battery, and the airbox. Wasnt too bad. The big challenge was feeling the new plugs back in without cross threading or banging up the electrodes. Job took about 2 hours including a break. Car runs great. Are the newer models any better? Would love to have a turbo model.
Thanks,
ebc

 

[mazduh30]

Don't put excessive amount of dielectric grease on the boots. It is not design as a lube. Too much will cause misfire or flashover on the insulator.

I don't use anti-seize on plated plugs (just the black rolled steel type). The plating acts as the lube, it actually is design to break-up to release itself from the shell body preventing aluminum from the cyclinder wall from fusing itself to the spark plug. Actually, by adding anti-seize to a plated plug you overtorque the plug resulting in future removal problems.

Just my 2 cents

 

[johnd]

I'll put the plug change on my 5.7 Camaro up against anything anybody can find for difficulty-and compared to changing the wires it was a walk in the park. If I keep the car long enough to do the plug wires a second time, I'm going to drop the entire exhaust system from the manifolds down first.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Hey EBC!

quote:

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Job took about 2 hours including a break

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How many beers was that again?

Yeah, the Stealer will simply bill you for changing the plugs, they won't actually, you know, CHANGE them.

I can't count all the times I've helped someone with a Crown Vic misfiring and the original rear driver's and passenger side plugs were there from the factory because they were difficult to get to. I think the early 90's vintage C-Vics needed to have the motor mount released and jacked up a few inches to get it out on the driver's side.

Dang crooks.

 

[bdcardinal]

http://www.headersockets.com/

havent seen a subie engine bay really close but would these help any? i know they are great on like camaros and other cars with headers.