MLPS alignment tool

[74 Laguna]

I am needing to replace the MLPS (manual lever position sensor) on a 1997 Ford 4R70W transmission and I was told that I need a MLPS alignment tool to get it aligned just right. Has anyone replaced the same sensor without a alignment tool and if so was it easy?

 

[punisher]

You do not need one, it is handy, but not neccessary.

Put trans in neutral, remove the MLP connector, remove the two 8mm headed bolts. Pull sensor straight off the shaft without rocking it, it will pull straight off easily. Verify the two hash marks (around shaft hole) are aligned on the old sensor, verify the new sensor has it's marks aligned the same way. Install and drive.

 

[74 Laguna]

I have a 1997 Town Car that is having a transmission problem. When the transmission is cold it will whift just fine but when we drive it 5-10 miles park and then come back to drive again that is when we have a problem. It will shift from first to second with no problems but then it will go from second to neutral. Once the transmission does go into third it is fine from there on untill we park it again. It is like the heat build up under the hood or next to the transmission is causing the problem, once we get air going through things it is alright.

I have replace the fluid, filter, shift solenoid and just replace the mlps and it is no better. I have been told that the throttle position sensor or the speed sensor can also cause this problem.

Does anyone think that maybe the mlps is not aligned just right or does anyone have any other ideas.

The transmission is a 4R70W with 60,000 miles.

Thanks

 

[punisher]

You are at the point where you need a professional diagnosis. Someone needs to first hook up a scanner and monitor your TOT/MLP/TP/Sol1/Sol2 at least and hook up some pressure gauges to see what is going on. You really are past the point of throwing parts at it.

As far a MLP symptoms, I noticed there was usually a problem at highway speed, a shudder or intermittent neutral. I wasn't the trans guy but they got shipped to me for performance concerns. Easy to catch that with a scantool/recorder. A bad MLP usually will not set a code.

There are a myriad of causes for your concern. Valve body (sticking), seal leak, leaking.cracked apply piston etc. That is why trans gauges are nice, if the pressure is correct to the actuated component, thats where you look, if the pressure is not there you look at valve body and or seals.

Now that I think about it, I am glad I never had to do more transmissions than I had to.

 

[74 Laguna]

Punisher, what do you think about a 2-3 accumulator problem? Also if it is a sticky valve in the valve body what do you think of Sea Foam or some other additive? I did take it to a shop and they put it on two different machines and it showed no codes. Do you think Mercon V would help at all?

Thanks

 

[punisher]

I don't know what to tell you as far as a hard diagnosis. I would find an actual trans shop and have them hook up some pressure gauges and go from there. I have never been the additive route with a trans so I cannot comment on that. Like I said before, you are at the point where you need to get it diagnosed properly. If you are having a pressure problem, then you need to get that addressed before you have hard parts damage. I am out of ideas.

 

[74 Laguna]

We live in a small town that does not have a good transmission shop and the nearest one is 60 miles away. I do not know if it would be safe to try to drive it that far or put it on a trailer.

I think I will replace the VSS, that is less than $30.00 and see what that does. If I do take it to a shop I do not know if it would be best to take it to a Lincoln dealer or AAMCO.

Thanks again

 

[punisher]

If your cruise control works properly (holds speed/no bucking), then your VSS is OK. You can also check it with a scan tool/datalogger.

Just an opinion, you are getting into a bad habit of throwing parts at this. I wish you luck with it.

 

[74 Laguna]

Problem solved.... I talked to the transmission guy at a nearby Lincoln dealer and he told me that they have had several cars doing the same as ours and most of them were the mlps. I told him that I had replaced that part and he said they had one that sent no codes but it was a bad throttle position sensor so I replaced ours and that solved the problem.

About a week before ours started acting up I had cleaned the MAF with CRC Lectra- Motive. I let it dry before putting it back in and even let the car set for a couple of hours before starting it. I really do not think that had anything to do with it but I can not think of anything else, but at least the transmission is working fine now so If anyone else runs into the same problem it might just be the same as ours.

 

[punisher]

quote:

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Originally posted by punisher:
You are at the point where you need a professional diagnosis. Someone needs to first hook up a scanner and monitor your TOT/MLP/TP/Sol1/Sol2 at least and hook up some pressure gauges to see what is going on. You really are past the point of throwing parts at it.

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First of all, I am very glad you got it solved. Secondly, your repair procedure is the textbook example of how not to diagnose and repair a vehicle. This problem is something a competent tech could have picked up on fairly quickly (assuming your car would act up during the diagnosis). A+ on your determination to fix your problem though.

 

[74 Laguna]

Thats the problem living in such a small town where there are not that many good mechanics. We do have a FLM dealership here and I did take it in to be checked. They put a computer on it and drove it untill it acted up. It showed no codes and no one there had any idea what was wrong. They could have kept it and started replacing parts like I did but at the rate they charged it would have cost much much more.

I just wished it would have showed a code. Oh well, I have about $100.00 in it. That is a lot less than a shop would have been.

 

[74 Laguna]

Now that this problem has been fixed I am wanting to add a transmission cooler to keep it running right. We are wanting to keep this car for 6-8 months more but still want to protect the trans. I have read here and other sites where people disagree over to use the radiator cooler along with the new cooler or just the new external cooler.

I am going to bypass the original radiator cooler only because the the transmission in the Chevelle I have was ruined when the anti freeze and trans. fluid mixed together.

I just wonder how often something like this happens or if this was just a freak thing.