Block heater vs. coolant heater vs. oil heater

[medic]

Okay, those of us who live in cooler climates have all seen these.

#1. Block heater - I'm not too sure about what makes these different than oil heaters or if they are available aftermarket

#2. Coolant heater - This is placed in the lower radiator hose and warms the coolant. Heat rises and warms the block indirectly. This doesn't pump any coolant, just warms what is there.

#3. Oil heater - There are many different types available, but the most popular seems to be the dipstick type unit that warms the oil.

Now to my question. What are the advantages / disadvantages to these different types of units? It seems that a warm block wouldn't warm the oil up. So, therefore, unit that actually warms the oil would be best, but then you don't have a warm engine and the engine needs to deal with the cold temps for a few seconds until the warm oil gets there.

Any thoughts?

 

[SteveD2]

Block heater goes in one of your freeze plugs and also heats the coolant. I am pretty sure heating up the coolant is the best choice, although both would be even better.

 

[eljefino]

Block heaters typically go in a freeze plug hole, so they heat the antifreeze. They're also the most "central" to the engine so one gets the most work out of their electricity. These are great options typically installed on new cars.

I have an oil pan heater that attaches magnetically. It can move from car to car, is 300watts, and modestly effective. I imagine the oil quickly cools off on cold engine surfaces and that the pan doesn't conduct the heat that well. But it's noninvasive and cheap.

The dipstick type ones, what do you do with your "real" dipstick? Put it in a snowbank? (j/k) Wipe it off every morning before reinserting it? Seems like a hassle.

Hose coolant heaters claim the antifreeze slowly circulates because warm rises and cold sinks (or vice versa) I expect thermostats and water pumps must sort of get in the way but could have small clearances. Antifreeze is a good heat transfer material though.

I knew a guy who lived in Alaska in the 1980's. He had a Honda CVCC with an antifreeze hose heater meant for a full size V8 car, block heater, and cabin space heater. These all plugged into a 4-way distribution box under the hood that went to the extention cord! His bedroom had a switch to the outside outlet and he'd flip it on when he woke up.....

 

[medic]

quote:

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Originally posted by eljefino:
I knew a guy who lived in Alaska in the 1980's. He had a Honda CVCC with an antifreeze hose heater meant for a full size V8 car, block heater, and cabin space heater. These all plugged into a 4-way distribution box under the hood that went to the extention cord! His bedroom had a switch to the outside outlet and he'd flip it on when he woke up.....

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With the temperatures that Alaska has been reporting recently, this would be needed!

I have and option on my remote start for very cold climates. I can set it for temperature ranging from 0 to -30. Once the pre-set ambient temperature is reached, the engine will start every hour to every 2 hours and run for a certain amount of time to keep the battery charged and the fluids warm. I have never tried it out, but it sounded interesting. Obviously not for energy concious people, but why would they live in a dark, cold climate anyway?

 

[Bio-T]

Block heaters are typically higher wattage heaters in the 8-10 amp range, (800-1200 watts. The OEM on my trucks are this way and can be expensive to operate for long periods of time. So running it on a timer to come on for 3 hours prior to departure time is the best use.

Oil Pan heaters generally run from the 125watt to fairly high wattages for large diesel trucks. A small 125 watt plugged in 24/7 seems like the best option on a 4-7 quart capacity engine. A lot less expensive to use over all and should help prevent excessive moisture build-up if plugged in immediately after running the vehicle.

Some companies do have a heater element that is used to replace the oil pan drain plug. Another alternative, but I am hesitant to put any element in the oil. Just personal preference on this, and includes the dipstick heater element. A failure is a sure source of problems.

 

[SPITMAN]

My actual order of preference would be:

1) heated battery blanket (200 watt)
2) oil pan heating pad (300 watt and glues to outside of pan)
3) recirculating antifreeze heater that mounts in the cab heater hose (500 watt)
4) normal block heater (400 watt).

I choose to use 0W or 5W synthetic oil and have no problem turning the engine over at -40 degree temps with out the aid of an engine preheater. It is amazing the extra cranking power you get from a warmed battery.

 

[DEWFPO]

My 2 cents :

-Synthetic oil in the 0W range
-Engine block heater (my F-150 has TWO 750 watt heaters stock from the factory ) 1985 F-150
-oil pan heater
-battery warmer

With all that, you should have no problem starts in the Arctic.

DEWFPO

 

[Patman]

Looks like my block heater died on me, so I'll probably get an oil pan heater now.

Does anyone in Canada know of a good source for one of these. I like these ones below, but don't want to order from the US if I don't have to, as I hate that $50 brokerage fee on bringing stuff over the border.

http://www.janyce.com/+wolver/heat.html

 

[pepper32]

I also have a oil pan heater on the tranmission (75watt). In cars and pickups the rule here is 75 watts for gas engines and 150 watts for diesels.

 

[Patman]

All is well, my block heater wasn't pooched after all!

Rugerman also pointed me to a Toronto source for an oil pan heater, so when it gets warmer out I'll buy one and install it (I hate doing outside work in the cold!) and next winter I'll have both the oil pan heater and a block heater! Double whammy against engine wear!