anyone noticed worse acceleration with fram ultra?

I changed the oil in the wife's Honda commercial mower from 5W-40 Rotella to 5W-30 Rotella Truck and SUV and she couldn't tell the difference.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I would expect, given the depth filtration of the synthetic glass media that the Ultra actually flows better than your OEM filter, which would be paper.


Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by JHZR2
I have a hard time cannot accepting that a flow restriction of a filter would create such a parasitic that you would notice a thing. Ditto with an oil selection, even if you put in a straight 50wt...

I have edited your thoughts to reflect mine. In addition, the Ultra has synthetic media which flows better than blended or cellulose media.


+1 and +1 ... the thought of "efficient oil filters reduce oil flow" is still one of the biggest misconceptions it seems. It's been shown many times that synthetic filter media gives both better filtration efficiency and flow.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Well, the first line is tongue in cheek; comments re: PAO.
I will stand corrected, The XoM EP 5W20 is 9.0 cSt and the 0W20 is reported at 8.6 cSt
Guaranteed his sump of run in oil was at around 7 cSt or less. - Yes a Guess.
Everything else is opinion and subjective.
Hit me with what else is off base
smile.gif


A guaranteed guess? LOL

Originally Posted by CT8
I changed the oil in the wife's Honda commercial mower from 5W-40 Rotella to 5W-30 Rotella Truck and SUV and she couldn't tell the difference.

Your wife owns and rides a commercial mower... awesome! We need more of that in the world.
 
Originally Posted by cals400ex
This was the 2nd time that the oil has been changed.

How much gas was in the tank, if it was low maybe being up on ramps caused it to suck some air.
 
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Originally Posted by cals400ex
This was the 2nd time that the oil has been changed.

How much gas was in the tank, if it was low maybe being up on ramps caused it to suck some air.


That theory is dependent on the ratio of carbon dioxide and oxygen in the gas tank.

Wait - Never mind.... I'm lying.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
87 vs 91, 93 octane? Maybe pulling timing on 87?

Not the filter.



I run regular fuel, 87 octane. The tank was 1/3 full.
 
[/quote]So this happened one time and never again? Maybe it took a little bit for the entire oiling system to 'settle in' with a little running time after the oil change.
[/quote]


Yes, this only happened one time. Never again.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
This whole thread needs to be dragged out back and shot.

I just can't...



100% Agree sir !!!
 
Originally Posted by cals400ex
Quote
So this happened one time and never again? Maybe it took a little bit for the entire oiling system to 'settle in' with a little running time after the oil change.

Yes, this only happened one time. Never again.


Flukes happen often with no real known cause. Don't worry ... be happy as the song goes.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by cals400ex
I recently changed the oil/filter in my 2019 mazda 3. Previously, it has only seen the OEM 0w-20 oil purchased from the mazda dealer and the OEM mazda filter. This time, I used 0w-20 Mobil 1 EP and a fram ultra xg6607. After changing the oil/filter, I had a noticeable hesitation and lack of acceleration when accelerating for the first 1/2 mile that I drove the car. No service engine light came on. The car only has 8,000 miles on it, and this has never happened before since the car has been in use for the last year and a half. .....? Maybe it was a fluke? I'm just stumped bc this has never happened before. Any ideas?

OP.

There was no reason to post your unwarranted concern.

A random, poor running engine that self corrected and didn't return?

That is just and instance of temporary poor running and operation

Likely a gulp of watery alcohol, from being on the ramps.

or a stubborn VVT mechanism. - But, it went away and didnt return

But, Why even mention it? Where is the concern?

And to the Forum: Why 6 pages on this thread.

Speaks more to the general boredom and the want to harass posters around here than much anything else.

Now I have done oil changes on a Toyota Yaris were I had insufficient pressure continuing for many minutes.
Even with a drive into town and back. Engine was a high specific output yamaha-aided design DOHC VVTi inline four.

I removed the filter and put back the removed "dirty one" and the horrendous racket went away..

Then I repeated the installation .of the "new" filter after rinsing it with some fresh oil.

And the insufficient oil pressure indication occurred again!

Then I put the "dirty" filter back on and - all was well !

I had PROVED that it was a poor flowing NEW oil filter. A Genuine Toyota Part.

Made in THAILAND DENSO Toyota service part. Not the " Made in Japan" Toyota filter that came off.

I got harassed to the high hills for my thread on this.

They hadn't seen this problem. They didnt want to recognize it.

Even though I had PROVED it was the filter causing the poor oil flow.

I see a lot of flat-earthers and closed minds around this "place".

Complex machinery can have complex problems.

Know that!

-Ken
 
I have the opposite story. After 3k miles on my new 2.0 skyactiv miata, the car ran and sounded like utter trash. I was very concerned. Oil was dark and the car idled very noisily. This is with the factory filter and oil. I switched to PP 0w-20 and a m1 108 filter for 4k miles. After 4k miles oil wasnt dark but idle was not smooth. I changed it again to M1 0w-20 EP with same mobil 1 filter and after 4k miles the car runs excellent, smooth idle and color is golden nothing like the previous intervals. I'm not planning on changing it before 6-7k. My theory is that it took a while to flush the break in materials out. m1 EP is great oil.

Was this your first oil change? I think the filter that came off was saturated since the OEM filtration isnt that great and theres metal from break in. Of course most oil does drain but maybe its possible some additional particulates were filtered with the fram ultra? Personally I wouldn't worry about it if your oil level is good and there are no leaks.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by haggler
I have the opposite story. After 3k miles on my new 2.0 skyactiv miata, the car ran and sounded like utter trash. I was very concerned. Oil was dark and the car idled very noisily. This is with the factory filter and oil. I switched to PP 0w-20 and a m1 108 filter for 4k miles. After 4k miles oil wasnt dark but idle was not smooth. I changed it again to M1 0w-20 EP with same mobil 1 filter and after 4k miles the car runs excellent, smooth idle and color is golden nothing like the previous intervals. I'm not planning on changing it before 6-7k. My theory is that it took a while to flush the break in materials out. m1 EP is great oil.

Was this your first oil change? I think the filter that came off was saturated since the OEM filtration isnt that great and theres metal from break in. Of course most oil does drain but maybe its possible some additional particulates were filtered with the fram ultra? Personally I wouldn't worry about it if your oil level is good and there are no leaks.

So you're saying the oil condition affected the vehicle idle? I can't put all that together somehow.
 
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