Bosch Equivalent to Purolator?

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What are the current "levels" of Bosch oil filters? Someone expressed the following equivalencies, but I'm not sure the information is still current. Are the Bosch filters exactly the same as Purolators on the inside?

Bosch Premium = Purolator "Classic"
Bosch Distance Plus = PurolatorONE
Bosch Long Life = PurolatorBOSS

Also, is a Bosch 3311 any better than SuperTech ST4386?
 
Unless things have changed recently (and I admit I haven't been keeping up on it)

Bosch Workshop = Purolator "Classic"
Bosch Premium = PurolatorONE
Bosch Long Life = PurolatorBOSS
Bosch Distance Plus = no Purolator equivalent
 
Actually Bosch Premium=Puro One
Bosch D+ really has no Pure equivalent
Bosch Workshop=Puro Classic
Bosch LL=Puro Synthetic/Boss
I would consider a 3311 somewhat stronger (standard bypass) than a ST4386 with it's combo valve, I've never been a fan of those.
 
Just to clarify and expand on that a bit, this refers to filter media only. There are some differences between Bosch and Purolator models as far as gasket and ADBV materials go.
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Actually Bosch Premium=Puro One

So then the "basic" (not counting "Workshop") Bosch Premium is a well-respected filter, no?

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
I would consider a 3311 somewhat stronger (standard bypass) than a ST4386 with it's combo valve, I've never been a fan of those

Wasn't aware that ST4386 had a combo valve. Unfortunately, I saw somewhere that the Bosch 3311 has a 14-18 PSI bypass setting. This is significantly higher than the 8-11 PSI bypass called for on a particular application (riding mower), and I'm worried about using it for that reason. Can anyone verify the bypass setting of Bosch Premium 3311?
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Wasn't aware that ST4386 had a combo valve. Unfortunately, I saw somewhere that the Bosch 3311 has a 14-18 PSI bypass setting. This is significantly higher than the 8-11 PSI bypass called for on a particular application (riding mower), and I'm worried about using it for that reason. Can anyone verify the bypass setting of Bosch Premium 3311?


Does the ST4386 and Bosch 3311 directly cross-over for the same applications? Bypass valve setting is also dependent on the filter design, and if you take 10 different filter brands/models specified for the same exact application, they will not all have the same bypass valve setting.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Does the ST4386 and Bosch 3311 directly cross-over for the same applications? Bypass valve setting is also dependent on the filter design, and if you take 10 different filter brands/models specified for the same exact application, they will not all have the same bypass valve setting.

No, neither filter is explicitly specified by its manufacturer for the application at hand. However, both filters are spin-on oil filters with the same threads and are about the same length. They both have ADBV and a bypass valve, although the bypass settings seem to differ. I'd like someone to verify the bypass PSI of the Bosch Premium 3311, as I only saw "14-18 PSI" on a 3rd party site, not directly from Bosch. Good point about bypass setting depending on filter design. I guess there's no way to compare the bypass performance of two different filters unless both are explicitly specified for the same application.

How likely is it that the bypass performance of the Bosch Premium 3311 is equivalent to that of Fram PH4386 or SuperTech ST4386 even though the bypass setting of the Bosch appears to be higher?
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Does the ST4386 and Bosch 3311 directly cross-over for the same applications? Bypass valve setting is also dependent on the filter design, and if you take 10 different filter brands/models specified for the same exact application, they will not all have the same bypass valve setting.

No, neither filter is explicitly specified by its manufacturer for the application at hand. However, both filters are spin-on oil filters with the same threads and are about the same length. They both have ADBV and a bypass valve, although the bypass settings seem to differ. I'd like someone to verify the bypass PSI of the Bosch Premium 3311, as I only saw "14-18 PSI" on a 3rd party site, not directly from Bosch. Good point about bypass setting depending on filter design. I guess there's no way to compare the bypass performance of two different filters unless both are explicitly specified for the same application.

How likely is it that the bypass performance of the Bosch Premium 3311 is equivalent to that of Fram PH4386 or SuperTech ST4386 even though the bypass setting of the Bosch appears to be higher?


So using Fram's website, it shows that the ST4386 and the Bosch 3311 both cross over to the same Fram PH4396. So that means they are a direct cross over filters no matter the application is - car, truck, garden tractor, etc. Also, any other filter brand that directly crosses over to these three filters will work.

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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
So using Fram's website, it shows that the ST4386 and the Bosch 3311 both cross over to the same Fram PH4396. So that means they are a direct cross over filters no matter the application is - car, truck, garden tractor, etc. Also, any other filter brand that directly crosses over to these three filters will work.

Thanks, that looks promising. However, can we be sure that Fram isn't just saying "Oh sure, just use our filter instead of that SuperTech or Bosch...it'll be fine..." without really caring about bypass specification, etc.? Maybe Fram doesn't have an exact match for either, so they recommend their closest option. Despite differences in filter design, I'm concerned, because the Fram PH4386 has a bypass specification of 14, which I assume is the midpoint (is this accurate?) of the bypass valve range. For the Bosch, I've seen 14-18 PSI, so it looks like 14 may be where the bypass valve starts to open. Are these different bypass settings just attributable to filter design, but yet yield the same performance?
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
So using Fram's website, it shows that the ST4386 and the Bosch 3311 both cross over to the same Fram PH4396. So that means they are a direct cross over filters no matter the application is - car, truck, garden tractor, etc. Also, any other filter brand that directly crosses over to these three filters will work.

Thanks, that looks promising. However, can we be sure that Fram isn't just saying "Oh sure, just use our filter instead of that SuperTech or Bosch...it'll be fine..." without really caring about bypass specification, etc.? Maybe Fram doesn't have an exact match for either, so they recommend their closest option. Despite differences in filter design, I'm concerned, because the Fram PH4386 has a bypass specification of 14, which I assume is the midpoint (is this accurate?) of the bypass valve range. For the Bosch, I've seen 14-18 PSI, so it looks like 14 may be where the bypass valve starts to open. Are these different bypass settings just attributable to filter design, but yet yield the same performance?


Like I said, you can take 10 different oil filter brands for the same exact application and they will not all have the same exact bypass setting. I'm sure the Fram engineers have specified their filters with some thought, not by using a dart board. Go run your application through Fram's filter finder and see what it recommends. Of course it might have a slightly different bypass setting because it will be a different filter than the ones you are looking at.

You're way over thinking it. If you can't trust a company that's been making and selling filters for decades, don't who you're going to trust.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Actually Bosch Premium=Puro One

So then the "basic" (not counting "Workshop") Bosch Premium is a well-respected filter, no?

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
I would consider a 3311 somewhat stronger (standard bypass) than a ST4386 with it's combo valve, I've never been a fan of those

Wasn't aware that ST4386 had a combo valve. Unfortunately, I saw somewhere that the Bosch 3311 has a 14-18 PSI bypass setting. This is significantly higher than the 8-11 PSI bypass called for on a particular application (riding mower), and I'm worried about using it for that reason. Can anyone verify the bypass setting of Bosch Premium 3311?

The Bosch Premium, just like it's Purolator (Pure)ONE cousin, has shown a penchant for occasional media tears & cut ADBVs from non-deburred baseplates. The Bosch filters are OK, but (IMO) generally somewhat overpriced for what they are. Amazon has them for $8.39, which puts them close to Ultra price range. Bypass looks to be 14-18 PSI.
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
The Bosch Premium, just like it's Purolator (Pure)ONE cousin, has shown a penchant for occasional media tears & cut ADBVs from non-deburred baseplates. The Bosch filters are OK, but (IMO) generally somewhat overpriced for what they are. Amazon has them for $8.39, which puts them close to Ultra price range. Bypass looks to be 14-18 PSI.

Thanks for the bypass confirmation. I recently saw some other references to the media tears. Is it safe to assume that a riding mower, my intended application, would not supply the pressure necessary to tear the media? Or could it happen on a cold start in that application? Would you say that Motorcraft or SuperTech are superior to Bosch/Purolator due to the media tear issues?
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
The Bosch Premium, just like it's Purolator (Pure)ONE cousin, has shown a penchant for occasional media tears & cut ADBVs from non-deburred baseplates. The Bosch filters are OK, but (IMO) generally somewhat overpriced for what they are. Amazon has them for $8.39, which puts them close to Ultra price range. Bypass looks to be 14-18 PSI.

Thanks for the bypass confirmation. I recently saw some other references to the media tears. Is it safe to assume that a riding mower, my intended application, would not supply the pressure necessary to tear the media? Or could it happen on a cold start in that application? Would you say that Motorcraft or SuperTech are superior to Bosch/Purolator due to the media tear issues?


You will never know until you use a filter, then cut it open to look. Why all the struggle looking for an oil filter?
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Actually Bosch Premium=Puro One

So then the "basic" (not counting "Workshop") Bosch Premium is a well-respected filter, no?

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
I would consider a 3311 somewhat stronger (standard bypass) than a ST4386 with it's combo valve, I've never been a fan of those

Wasn't aware that ST4386 had a combo valve. Unfortunately, I saw somewhere that the Bosch 3311 has a 14-18 PSI bypass setting. This is significantly higher than the 8-11 PSI bypass called for on a particular application (riding mower), and I'm worried about using it for that reason. Can anyone verify the bypass setting of Bosch Premium 3311?

The Bosch Premium, just like it's Purolator (Pure)ONE cousin, has shown a penchant for occasional media tears & cut ADBVs from non-deburred baseplates. The Bosch filters are OK, but (IMO) generally somewhat overpriced for what they are. Amazon has them for $8.39, which puts them close to Ultra price range. Bypass looks to be 14-18 PSI.


I don't know were you are shopping for those Bosch Premiums but the last ones I bought were cheaper $4.04 each. Used and cut several of them no rips, no tares, no errors. In fact I've been using the Purolator's since before 2010 and yet not one with a tare? Not saying it doesn't happen but all filter makers have Tare O Lators.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
You will never know until you use a filter, then cut it open to look. Why all the struggle looking for an oil filter?

Just looking for the best value among the filters that are available to me. I enjoy learning about this stuff. Thanks for your information and help.
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
You will never know until you use a filter, then cut it open to look. Why all the struggle looking for an oil filter?

Just looking for the best value among the filters that are available to me. I enjoy learning about this stuff. Thanks for your information and help.


What's your main goal? Efficiency, long use, cost, construction, etc? If high efficiency is near top of the list it narrows down and eliminates the super cheapo (like RockAuto) type filters.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
What's your main goal? Efficiency, long use, cost, construction, etc? If high efficiency is near top of the list it narrows down and eliminates the super cheapo (like RockAuto) type filters.

My main goal is reducing engine wear at a cost that's within reason. Not long hours or miles, but perhaps long time. I don't want to sacrifice good flow for high efficiency.
 
Originally Posted by viscous
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
What's your main goal? Efficiency, long use, cost, construction, etc? If high efficiency is near top of the list it narrows down and eliminates the super cheapo (like RockAuto) type filters.

My main goal is reducing engine wear at a cost that's within reason. Not long hours or miles, but perhaps long time. I don't want to sacrifice good flow for high efficiency.


Then go with a full synthetic that has published ISO 4548-12 efficiency specs. And if you do short OCIs, then run it more than once to cut down the cost per OCI.

Lot of people believe that you get "less flow" with a higher efficiency filter ... probably one of the biggest misconceptions here. When talking about oil filters and "flow" on a positive displacement oiling system, a "better flowing" oil filter just means there is a bit less delta-p across the filter. The only way to actually get less oil flow volume would be to use relatively restrictive filter and rev the engine hear red line all the time to make the oil pump hit pressure relief. Not many people do that except if they are tracking their car.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Then go with a full synthetic that has published ISO 4548-12 efficiency specs. And if you do short OCIs, then run it more than once to cut down the cost per OCI.

Thanks for your suggestion. I appreciate the information offered on this forum.
 
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