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Loctite question #5460556 06/23/20 09:07 AM
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Dave Sherman Offline OP
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Haven't had much experience with threadlockers. The MG decided to part ways with a couple of machine screws holding the auto choke on the the carburetor. It was suggested to me to add a dab of blue Loctite to them. Only wrinkle is that the hole for one of them is tapped into the side of the float bowl; I figured out something was wrong when I got a whiff of gas fumes as it was dribbling out of the hole. I put them all back in with a dab of it, made sure they were tight, but does it hold up to gas? I'm letting it cure for the recommended 24 hours before I try to start it.

Lock washers aren't an option since these are flathead screws.


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460562 06/23/20 09:15 AM
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Bighorn2500 Offline
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Might be ok, depends how you interpret the data provided (95% of initial strength)

https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/conten...242-Carded-Tube-0.20-fl-oz-2018-04-09pdf


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460564 06/23/20 09:17 AM
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Trav Offline
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Quote
Chemical / Solvent ResistanceThe product retains effective properties in contact with automotive fluids, such as motor oil, gasoline, brake fluids, transmission fluids, alcohol and antifreeze solutions.


https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/24206.pdf


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460565 06/23/20 09:20 AM
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JHZR2 Offline
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Should be OK, IF you can get the surfaces clean and actually get a cure.

Even gasoline can leave behind hydrocarbons and oils that will influence the cure.

You should use 243, which is a bit more resistant to that, and use the loctite primer. The primer cleans and leaves some additional metal ions to help speed the cure. The ions arent always necessary (really there for more stable metals like stainless, to help speed the cure), but the cleaning is.

IIRC, the long term strength tests assume a well prepared, fully clean and properly cured connection.

So tell us how you cleaned and prepared it???

Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460588 06/23/20 09:41 AM
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Re: Loctite question [Re: JHZR2] #5460591 06/23/20 09:44 AM
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Dave Sherman Offline OP
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Originally Posted by JHZR2
Should be OK, IF you can get the surfaces clean and actually get a cure.

Even gasoline can leave behind hydrocarbons and oils that will influence the cure.

You should use 243, which is a bit more resistant to that, and use the loctite primer. The primer cleans and leaves some additional metal ions to help speed the cure. The ions arent always necessary (really there for more stable metals like stainless, to help speed the cure), but the cleaning is.

IIRC, the long term strength tests assume a well prepared, fully clean and properly cured connection.

So tell us how you cleaned and prepared it???


Thanks, I used a Q-tip that I wet with some carb cleaner in the holes, and even though the replacement screws were new in the bag I sprayed them with some carb cleaner and wiped them off. Made sure they were dry before I put the stuff on and put them in.


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460626 06/23/20 10:30 AM
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Trav Offline
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That should be fine.


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460672 06/23/20 11:17 AM
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wings&wheels Offline
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You should be fine, but I have used Hylomar w/ success on those exact threads on an MGB.


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Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5460871 06/23/20 03:09 PM
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Urshurak776 Offline
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You should be good to go.


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Re: Loctite question [Re: CT8] #5461131 06/23/20 10:21 PM
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JHZR2 Offline
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Originally Posted by CT8


That’s interesting stuff, but still needs cleaning and prep.

Quote


DIRECTIONS FOR USE
For assembly
1. For best performance, clean all threads with a cleaning
solvent such as Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner and
allow to dry.
2. Determine if the threads to be bonded are Active or
Inactive Metals (Ref: Cure Speed vs. Substrate on the second page). If material is an Inactive Metal, spray all threads with Permatex Surface Prep and allow 30 seconds to dry. Priming is not required if the material is an Active Metal. If unknown, it is always best to use the activator.


Re: Loctite question [Re: Dave Sherman] #5461406 06/24/20 11:04 AM
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I think you'll be fine. Surely you are planning to keep an eye on those screws for a while, right?
Mark the screw heads and flange with something (white out, marker, etc) so you'll notice if they start backing out.


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