What is the best way to remove these, on a bone cold engine, or heated engine? Reason I ask is I have heard both ways, and I have also heard of people breaking out the propane torch and heating it up. Thoughts? I have 4 to replace.
Removing Oxygen Sensors
- Thread starter Propflux01
- Start date
Originally Posted by Propflux01
What is the best way to remove these, on a bone cold engine, or heated engine? Reason I ask is I have heard both ways, and I have also heard of people breaking out the propane torch and heating it up. Thoughts? I have 4 to replace.
It's not unusual to end up using the torch, they're "welded" to the pipes. If you're using a wrench, make it a six-point box end. Or a six point socket.
What is the best way to remove these, on a bone cold engine, or heated engine? Reason I ask is I have heard both ways, and I have also heard of people breaking out the propane torch and heating it up. Thoughts? I have 4 to replace.
It's not unusual to end up using the torch, they're "welded" to the pipes. If you're using a wrench, make it a six-point box end. Or a six point socket.
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I've never had to use anything more than a ratchet and an O2 socket. They can be picked up for under $12 usually, or most auto parts stores have a set that they will rent out. I could see where maybe you might use a breaker bar, but I've never had to do that. I don't think I'd take a torch to one.
Without knowing what you have for tools its hard to say, do you have an impact and O2 sockets?
Originally Posted by JustN89
I've never had to use anything more than a ratchet and an O2 socket. They can be picked up for under $12 usually, or most auto parts stores have a set that they will rent out. I could see where maybe you might use a breaker bar, but I've never had to do that. I don't think I'd take a torch to one.
Always used my Tekton O2 Socket, but I don't consider myself the norm.
I've never had to use anything more than a ratchet and an O2 socket. They can be picked up for under $12 usually, or most auto parts stores have a set that they will rent out. I could see where maybe you might use a breaker bar, but I've never had to do that. I don't think I'd take a torch to one.
Always used my Tekton O2 Socket, but I don't consider myself the norm.
^ Or a purpose designed O2 sensor wrench with the cutout for the pigtail.
Originally Posted by Dave9
^ Or a purpose designed O2 sensor wrench with the cutout for the pigtail.
+1
^ Or a purpose designed O2 sensor wrench with the cutout for the pigtail.
+1
If they don't want to budge at all (depending on your strength and how much power is being lost from a swivel, extension, etc) I would suggest using heat. I typically try to have the exhaust hot or at least warm, then crack them loose and spray with penetrating oil immediately if they crack loose. Let cool down till it's comfortable to work on. If they don't budge, don't try too hard, I have seen and pulled the threads out of the exhaust a few times by trying to be macho and force them out with more leverage. That's way more of a headache than beating up the o2 bung around the sensor and having them come out smooth.
I have all the tools. 3 sensor removers (one tall socket, the others a 3/8d and 1/2d offset O2 tool). And plenty of air tools, sockets, wrenches, BFH's and breaker bars. I know 3 of them will probably come out ok, but there is always one that's gotta be a female canine.
I lost the battle on one I was trying to remove for more clearance. I don't like how shallow the nut it is. It's easy for an oxygen sensor wrench to slip off. Even an acetylene torch heat-up could not get it off. All the others I've done have come off with an overnight soak with liquid wrench. This one was 15 years old. It was planted.
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I have the best results with an offset socket in tight places with impact and extension if needed. I also use the Lisle 43900 with air hammer but I think it has been discontinued.
I had a rough one so I used penetrant then ran a cold engine for a minute, just a minute, then it cracked loose.
The exhaust heated up faster than the sensor did.
I generally put a box- or open end end wrench on. At 7/8" the wrench is beefy enough it won't spread, and won't round off the hex.
The exhaust heated up faster than the sensor did.
I generally put a box- or open end end wrench on. At 7/8" the wrench is beefy enough it won't spread, and won't round off the hex.
A flare nut wrench has a gap that you could get the wire through . How would that work ?
I've used an endwrench. I had one that would not budge at all, i cut the wires and used impact.
I too have surprisingly never needed anything more than an O2 socket and a really long ratchet or breaker bar.
I've encountered harder to remove bolts in other places. I suspect the fact that it's a larger diameter makes it less dangerous feeling than a rusted smaller diameter where breakage is likely lol.
If you're buying an O2 socket make sure to get one:
1. With as thin a cutout as possible for the wire harness.
2. The cutout placed on the flat and not the corner or point.
Some sockets use really wide cutouts where the cutout may be large enough to remove a point or two of the six points, which causes you to lose some effort due to the missing points and under serious pressure those two halves of the socket can move away from each other just slightly enough to strip the six points on the O2 sensor.
Here's an example of one I would consider subpar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/78-in-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-63702.html
Here's an example of one I consider great in comparison:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4929-8-Inch-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000NPUKIE
I've encountered harder to remove bolts in other places. I suspect the fact that it's a larger diameter makes it less dangerous feeling than a rusted smaller diameter where breakage is likely lol.
If you're buying an O2 socket make sure to get one:
1. With as thin a cutout as possible for the wire harness.
2. The cutout placed on the flat and not the corner or point.
Some sockets use really wide cutouts where the cutout may be large enough to remove a point or two of the six points, which causes you to lose some effort due to the missing points and under serious pressure those two halves of the socket can move away from each other just slightly enough to strip the six points on the O2 sensor.
Here's an example of one I would consider subpar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/78-in-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-63702.html
Here's an example of one I consider great in comparison:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4929-8-Inch-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000NPUKIE
Originally Posted by OilReport99
Originally Posted by Propflux01
What is the best way to remove these, on a bone cold engine, or heated engine? Reason I ask is I have heard both ways, and I have also heard of people breaking out the propane torch and heating it up. Thoughts? I have 4 to replace.
It's not unusual to end up using the torch, they're "welded" to the pipes. If you're using a wrench, make it a six-point box end. Or a six point socket.
Probably the best tools. Problem is you have to cut the connector off to get the box wrench on. Then you are totally committed and in deep trouble if you can't break the sensor loose.
Originally Posted by Propflux01
What is the best way to remove these, on a bone cold engine, or heated engine? Reason I ask is I have heard both ways, and I have also heard of people breaking out the propane torch and heating it up. Thoughts? I have 4 to replace.
It's not unusual to end up using the torch, they're "welded" to the pipes. If you're using a wrench, make it a six-point box end. Or a six point socket.
Probably the best tools. Problem is you have to cut the connector off to get the box wrench on. Then you are totally committed and in deep trouble if you can't break the sensor loose.
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Lots of good advice here.
What I do is I make sure to have the correct replacement (compare in situ), then cut the wire the shortest possible and use a good regular 6 point long socket. 0² sockets are for when you want to reuse the sensor, or for tightening it, haha!
But out of all the 0² sensors I removed, never had a problem. Sometimes even a standard 22mm wrench is enough, when it's in a tight spot. I always put some penetrating oil before, but honestly I'm not even sure that's helping. All the sensors I replaced came with antiseize, preapplied or in a small bag, so I'm guessing they are installed from factory with antiseize, in most cases?
What I do is I make sure to have the correct replacement (compare in situ), then cut the wire the shortest possible and use a good regular 6 point long socket. 0² sockets are for when you want to reuse the sensor, or for tightening it, haha!
But out of all the 0² sensors I removed, never had a problem. Sometimes even a standard 22mm wrench is enough, when it's in a tight spot. I always put some penetrating oil before, but honestly I'm not even sure that's helping. All the sensors I replaced came with antiseize, preapplied or in a small bag, so I'm guessing they are installed from factory with antiseize, in most cases?
Originally Posted by spasm3
I've used an endwrench. I had one that would not budge at all, i cut the wires and used impact.
.
I've read the term "end wrench " before, but never knew for sure...does it mean open-end, box-end, or something else?
I've used an endwrench. I had one that would not budge at all, i cut the wires and used impact.
.
I've read the term "end wrench " before, but never knew for sure...does it mean open-end, box-end, or something else?
Originally Posted by zrxkawboy
Originally Posted by spasm3
I've used an endwrench. I had one that would not budge at all, i cut the wires and used impact.
.
I've read the term "end wrench " before, but never knew for sure...does it mean open-end, box-end, or something else?
Sorry, open end. If that does not work, i cut the wires and go impact. You can try the slotted socket first. But if there is room, i always use a wrench first. Most of the time, they seem to come out ok, but my truck had a lot of rust and it did not give up easily. On non rusty cars, i've not had to resort to impact, but thats my own experience, i don't do this for a living.
Originally Posted by spasm3
I've used an endwrench. I had one that would not budge at all, i cut the wires and used impact.
.
I've read the term "end wrench " before, but never knew for sure...does it mean open-end, box-end, or something else?
Sorry, open end. If that does not work, i cut the wires and go impact. You can try the slotted socket first. But if there is room, i always use a wrench first. Most of the time, they seem to come out ok, but my truck had a lot of rust and it did not give up easily. On non rusty cars, i've not had to resort to impact, but thats my own experience, i don't do this for a living.
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I just replaced my old slotted one that was worn by slipping and bought a new one. It is a 1/2 inch drive like my old one. Many are 3/8" drive. It also has a nut for a 7/8" wrench.
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