Hybrid Bicycles

Joined
Feb 21, 2020
Messages
43
Location
New York
Interested in what's best in the $400-$600 range, as well as $300-$400.

Covid-19 seems to have very much hindered the availability of these and some other bikes.
 
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I did a google search using this line of description " better rated hybrid bikes 300 to 600 " and returned 5 or 6 review type listings that probably include tips and feature explanations. I'm use to shopping or investing all kinds of purchase considerations this way and often you get insights and tips. Those articles, comparisons or reviews can help you can zero in on what you may want or skip as per features and pricing. Availability by mail order or store is sometime clued in there too.
I presently have a few bikes - Marin, Kona , Jamis and a Specialized. The Jamis is more the hybrid style and pretty basic. It was mid line at about $530 I think in 2014 or so. I'd say read up on them a bit then hit stores to see and feel / fit in person. The right help to get you on the proper frame size/fit and few minor adjustments make a big difference in comfort. If you feel well established on those things, mail order is a wildly used option and opens up brands that are direct marketed yet very well made, and can offer very good value for the $ spent. Trek and Giant are solid brands that should have many options.

I think unless ultra fussy, you are going to get a very nice bike for $400 to $550 range. If not fancy or high tech / boutique, $350 to $390 may be some good options too. Price wise, I'd be tempted to look at Fuji, ride rate and compare from there. If you support your local bike shop/s , that's a good plan. They can be very helpful and won't feel betrayed by on-line shoppers who might go that route only to save a few dollars. Making a friend or connection in that biz is a good thing. My local shop had done a few little things right on the spot and not under warranty as n/c at times they had a waiting list to get bikes serviced.

Good luck, Shopping is fun !
 
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Hybrid? What type of riding? Paved, cinder, dirt, smooth, rough, distance?

Straight handles, Dropped?

Tires, smooth, cross, 700? Width 28, 35, 43?
 
My first hybrid/cross bike was a GT Arrette. I rode that for a few years, and then upgraded to a Trek 750. The Trek was a serious upgrade. I gave $500 for that. That was over 20 years ago. Many local bike shops are sold out. Your choices will probably come down to what a dealer has. Don't be afraid to look used as that may be a good option for you. I'm shy of 62 this year, and I still love riding my bike. It's a great way to stay in shape, and get a different presentation of whats around you that you won't get in a car. Good luck in your search!
 
The Coda series starts at $429. You aren't going to get a carbon fork or disc brakes in the less expensive models but they are good bikes regardless.
The most comfortable bike I've ever ridden is a Jamis Coda Comp which is above your price range.

Jamis puts decent wheels on their Coda series bikes with a good spoke count. So even if you get the non disc brake version, you shouldn't have the sucky
braking wheel wobble with rim brakes if the bike is set up right when assembled at the bike store. Good bikes shops will true wheels on new bikes they assemble.
 
Hybrid? What type of riding? Paved, cinder, dirt, smooth, rough, distance?

Straight handles, Dropped?

Tires, smooth, cross, 700? Width 28, 35, 43?



*****


Mostly road (much of it smooth), with some limited relatively even dirt road. Not too many hills in each of these two instances.

I'm a tad under 5'10. Plan to do rides between 10 and 30 miles.

On a gym life cycle with 20 resistance settings, I've (in my late 50s) averaged around 97.5 RPM for 50 minutes at the manual level 14. On that level, I'll do 5 minute interval training, averaging over 100 RPM.

Back in the day (late 20s) on that bike and level, I'd (on a good day) go an hour averaging around 97.5 RPM for the first 55 minutes, with the last 5 minutes at 100 RPM and over.

In my late teens and early 20s, I had a late 1970's era Peugeot 10 speed. I recall covering 14 miles in around 45 minutes and 30 miles in somewhere under 2 hours.
 
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Appreciate all of the replies. I heard that ****'s has some decent bikes and (generally speaking) pretty good in house bike assembly nerd types. Unfortunately, their stock is wiped out.

I see that a range of police bikes are offered for a price range over $600.
 
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Originally Posted by E365
Have you looked at used bikes?

Most new bikes under $500 are junk.

QFT. Look for a nice used one, should be plenty available soon now.
 
I bought a Trek 15 speed a few years back that was in the $350 range, topped about $425 with the accessories I added (saddle bags, kick stand, speedometer, tool kit, flat repair/tubes) I test rode a bunch of different makes and models before choosing the Trek. Trek and Cannondale, I believe, were basically the same bike/company, just different branding. I test rode the two side by side and like the Trek just a tad bit more, so that's what I chose.

I am of the belief that a bike should be easy to ride. It should be easy to pedal, no matter what gear you're in, as you grab higher gears you simply go faster for the input. Now, obviously, you're going to work harder as you crank up the gears, but in my opinion, should still be a relatively easy ride. As a comparison, I started with a Huffy from Costco, you could barely turn the crank in first gear and felt like you were fighting through mud just to coast.

Tire size, air pressure, and gear ratios will play a big part in how a bike feels when you're riding it. Of all the bikes I test rode, easily 7 or 8 different brands and models, the Trek was the only comfortable, easy bike to ride. I would encourage you to go test ride as many brands/models as you can and choose the one that feels the best to you.

I would also encourage you to invest in a really good seat! While the stock seat on the Trek was ok, it did get rather hard and uncomfortable after a few miles. A good bike shop can fit you to the proper sized seat based on the sized of your skeletal butt print. You will be looking at about $100 for an upgraded seat, but if you plan to ride this thing more than a few miles at a time, you're going to want something that isn't going to make your butt/crotch ache.

I would also encourage you to accessorize with at least a small bag for basic tools and supplies for flat repairs. Going off pavement, even on bike trails subjects you to all kinds of flat inducing objects. My worst was having to ride through star thistle chaff, which resulted in over a dozen punctures to both tires within seconds! I was able to repair and get back on the road because I had the tools and supplies. Tire spoons, patches, spare tubes, and air pump are the basics, IMO, but you can certainly add as much as you like. Also having the ability to carry plenty of water is a must!

I didn't do a lot of offroad with my bike, but did take it camping and it did pretty well on steep gravel grades, not a fun ride, but it would make the climb. For on road and suburban bike trails, it was more than adequate. the 15 speeds went low enough to easily climb grades, in fact, you could hardly balance because your speed was so slow. The high gears were plenty big to cover decent distances in reasonable time. My average speed was around 14mph and I primarily used the 2nd gear range for all my city riding. My bike had 3 crank sprockets and 5 rear sprockets.
 
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Have you looked at used bikes?

Most new bikes under $500 are junk.




****

There're some apparently good ones under $500.

Buying a used bike would lead to me to surmise that it'd be like buying a used car, which ideally involves having a competent mechanic give it a look over for any flaws (major repairs).
 
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Originally Posted by Bogdon
Have you looked at used bikes?

Most new bikes under $500 are junk.




****

There're some apparently good ones under $500.

Buying a used bike would lead to me to surmise that it'd be like buying a used car, which ideally involves having a competent mechanic give it a look over for any flaws (major repairs).


My first road bike I bought for $5. It was at least 20 years old, 12 speed Panasonic with alloy rims and stem shifters. I quickly ruined some bearings as I didn't repack them fast enough. Still put over 600 miles onto it before it was truly knackered and retired--at that point I knew that I liked road bikes and was ok with dropping $900 on a prior year's Trek. More recently I picked up a slightly fancier Trek that must have retailed for $1,500 at the time, but I got it for $275 or so. Replaced tires, chain and seat.

Bikes are pretty simple creatures. Yeah sure, carbon fiber requires a bit more thought (which is why I try to avoid) but the rest of it is just fiddling with pretty simple bits. Plenty of info on the web to read up on. And... dare I say it... much of it is rather cheap, compared to car parts.

My point is, this can be over-thought. Do some research, limit up front cost, dip your toe in. Find something, ride it into the ground, decide then which way to go. Yes, do some research. But don't rule out a cheapo used bike. If nothing else you might be able to flip it later for similar money.
 
I'd get a bike with dropped handlebars, more comfortable, I'd you ride often and "far" you can develop problems with straight handlebars, you might want to consider a cross bike, size 54-55cm, minimum Shimano Tiagra not Sora, 9-10 speed, not 8 speed, 25-28mm tires.

Do not buy from ****'s.
 
A lot of avid bicyclists don't like hybrid bikes. However, I love mine! I have 2 sets of wheels. Larger and smaller. I prefer the 28x700 slick tires (the kind that fixies use, flat resistant, tough and fast enough) . That bike is Ti, and has 44,000 miles on it. Of course, now my knees and ankles are worn out.

[Linked Image from cujet.com]
 
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Originally Posted by skyactiv
The Coda series starts at $429. You aren't going to get a carbon fork or disc brakes in the less expensive models but they are good bikes regardless.
The most comfortable bike I've ever ridden is a Jamis Coda Comp which is above your price range.

Jamis puts decent wheels on their Coda series bikes with a good spoke count. So even if you get the non disc brake version, you shouldn't have the sucky
braking wheel wobble with rim brakes if the bike is set up right when assembled at the bike store. Good bikes shops will true wheels on new bikes they assemble.


I talked my brother in-law into bike shopping and helped him out recommending Jamis. He picked up a Coda Sport I think and now it's mine. He quit riding a few years ago and gifted it to me but knowing it was nearly $500 or around there new, I donated $180 toward his next fishing gear.
I have three steel bikes and one al alloy, prefer steel.
 
Originally Posted by Cujet
A lot of avid bicyclists don't like hybrid bikes. However, I love mine! I have 2 sets of wheels. Larger and smaller. I prefer the 28x700 slick tires (the kind that fixies use, flat resistant, tough and fast enough) . That bike is Ti, and has 44,000 miles on it. Of course, now my knees and ankles are worn out.

[Linked Image from cujet.com]


Nice!

I run 28's also on my "slow" bike (the "fast" one gets 25's). I have found that when I want to go fast and pump the tires up to 90-100 psi they seem to lose a tube, probably a rim tape problem. BUT I don't think I'ever pinch flatted when I'm down at 60 psi. It's weird--and unexpected--as I'm past 190 pounds.

Treadless tires have a shocking amount of traction on dirt I've found, but they are a bit useless in mud.
 
I'd look for something used in good shape. I have a Trek 8.5 hybrid with a front suspension and a rear vibration absorbing 'isoshock'. It has Shimano disk brakes and a 27 speed powertrain (you only need 10 or 11). Roads in our area are pretty rough and patched, so the shocks help a lot. I also put on fenders and a rack with a case so I can carry some things. I put on 700x35c 'touring' tires (flat resistant) that grip a little better and are wide enough not to bog down in gravel and get stuck in road ruts. The bike has a mid-wide seat (between road and comfort sized) and straight handlebars. With all of the gear and a U lock it weighs around 45 lbs. The weight makes it a little more difficult on hills.

Quality of newer bikes is nowhere near that of the older ones. I've had a lot of issues with mine and have replaced cables, racks, and rims and 4 sets of tires. My 1988 Trek USA made mountain bike had zero problems for over 20 years.

Get hydraulic disk brakes if you can find them. They stop much better than mechanical disks or rim brakes. When a car pulls out in front of you or a pedestrian or dog suddenly blocks your path you will be happy you spent the extra $.

I ride 25-40 miles 5x per week, occasionally longer. It's more effort than a road bike but less than a mountain, and the bike is stable at higher (25-30mph) speeds. You are affected by headwinds more than a road bike, but conversely, tailwinds help more.
 
I bought a spealizes sirrus about 12 years ago, set up very well by the local bike shop. I have had to repack a front wheel, replaces chains and sprockets, but never had a wheel go out of true in all that time. 28's ride only road, avoid bumps.

Are they that good now. Don't know and don't care.

Rod
 
I am an avid cyclist riding 100+ miles, trainer, bike mechanic, fitter, have numerous bikes, get a bike with turned down handlebars, not upright, more comfortable, don't don't buy from ****'s.
 
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