Everything seems tight. Guess I need to pull it apart and see what seal is in there and replace.
Garbage disposal leaking from outlet.
- Thread starter Donald
- Start date
usually when that starts.. its time for replacement.
I prefer the waste king 1hp.
https://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-Garbage-Disposal/dp/B000DZGN7Q
installed one in july 2015 its been flawless, works much better, makes less noise, than the badger insinkerator it replaced.
They make conversion flanges if you want to keep your current sink mounting flange.
they have a newer more expensive 9980 model.. but not sure whats better vs the l-8000
I prefer the waste king 1hp.
https://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-Garbage-Disposal/dp/B000DZGN7Q
installed one in july 2015 its been flawless, works much better, makes less noise, than the badger insinkerator it replaced.
They make conversion flanges if you want to keep your current sink mounting flange.
they have a newer more expensive 9980 model.. but not sure whats better vs the l-8000
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
Originally Posted by JohnG
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
1 HP = 746 W. P = IV. 746 W/120 V = 6.x A, which is not excessive for a 14 AWG/15 A circuit. (15 A circuits are typically rated for 15 A peak and 12 A continuous load.)
But, I don't know what the actual current draw, peak or steady state, of a nominal 1 HP motor would be. Perhaps peak would be a lot higher.
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
1 HP = 746 W. P = IV. 746 W/120 V = 6.x A, which is not excessive for a 14 AWG/15 A circuit. (15 A circuits are typically rated for 15 A peak and 12 A continuous load.)
But, I don't know what the actual current draw, peak or steady state, of a nominal 1 HP motor would be. Perhaps peak would be a lot higher.
Originally Posted by Rand
usually when that starts.. its time for replacement.
I prefer the waste king 1hp.
https://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-Garbage-Disposal/dp/B000DZGN7Q
installed one in july 2015 its been flawless, works much better, makes less noise, than the badger insinkerator it replaced.
They make conversion flanges if you want to keep your current sink mounting flange.
they have a newer more expensive 9980 model.. but not sure whats better vs the l-8000
Why would leaking at the outlet mean it's time for a new one vs just a seal or gasket or o-ring?
It's leaking down the side from the outlet. Not around the bottom.
usually when that starts.. its time for replacement.
I prefer the waste king 1hp.
https://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-Garbage-Disposal/dp/B000DZGN7Q
installed one in july 2015 its been flawless, works much better, makes less noise, than the badger insinkerator it replaced.
They make conversion flanges if you want to keep your current sink mounting flange.
they have a newer more expensive 9980 model.. but not sure whats better vs the l-8000
Why would leaking at the outlet mean it's time for a new one vs just a seal or gasket or o-ring?
It's leaking down the side from the outlet. Not around the bottom.
Last edited:
I just replace my garbage disposal two weeks ago. Caught the leak early, luckily. Wife just happened to be looking for something under the sink and noticed a little water. Had a bear of a time getting the old one out. It was locked on the flange and wouldn't budge. Had to get a drill and drill out the flange to get it off. Replaced it with a Moen. The Moen is much smaller than the 1hp Waste King behemoth that was in there. Wife is happier with the smaller disposal. Happy wife, happy life.
if its leaking from the outlet usually there is an O ring there and it bad or the bolts need to be tighten
Originally Posted by WhyMe
if its leaking from the outlet usually there is an O ring there and it bad or the bolts need to be tighten
What WhyMe posted.
if its leaking from the outlet usually there is an O ring there and it bad or the bolts need to be tighten
What WhyMe posted.
Quote
But, I don't know what the actual current draw, peak or steady state, of a nominal 1 HP motor would be. Perhaps peak would be a lot higher.
16 amps @ 110V, Full load.
But, I don't know what the actual current draw, peak or steady state, of a nominal 1 HP motor would be. Perhaps peak would be a lot higher.
16 amps @ 110V, Full load.
Originally Posted by Donald
Everything seems tight. Guess I need to pull it apart and see what seal is in there and replace.
I'm not sure what your setup is like but mine has a flange gasket on the 90 degree exit elbow held by two screws; Check there for a leak.
Everything seems tight. Guess I need to pull it apart and see what seal is in there and replace.
I'm not sure what your setup is like but mine has a flange gasket on the 90 degree exit elbow held by two screws; Check there for a leak.
Originally Posted by JohnG
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
1hp on a disposer is like vacuum cleaners and cheaper air compressors - a bogus rating. Kitchen circuits on any home built in the last 60 years at least are 20 amp.
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
1hp on a disposer is like vacuum cleaners and cheaper air compressors - a bogus rating. Kitchen circuits on any home built in the last 60 years at least are 20 amp.
Last edited:
This does not have a metal plate held by 2 bolts to hold the output pipe. The output of the disposal is a short threaded nipple. The output pipe has a slip nut that screws to the nipple. More like normal sink drain fittings right at the disposal.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by JohnG
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
Keep in mind not all disposals use the same motors though. Insinkerator is an AC motor while most Waste King use a DC motor.
Word of caution. 1 hp is a pretty big motor for a 110V application, make sure you have the wiring to support that load. I don't think 14 ga. will do the trick unless it's a dedicated circuit (like no dishwasher on it too). I know the motor won't be running full current draw, (like 16 amps) but just be sure that it meets code.
14 ga. COPPER is only rated for 15 amp circuit breakers.
Keep in mind not all disposals use the same motors though. Insinkerator is an AC motor while most Waste King use a DC motor.
Originally Posted by Donald
This does not have a metal plate held by 2 bolts to hold the output pipe. The output of the disposal is a short threaded nipple. The output pipe has a slip nut that screws to the nipple. More like normal sink drain fittings right at the disposal.
Sounds like an older ISE. I just replaced a 20-year old one with a bad bearing with the current equivalent model, and they've changed the threaded outlet to the two-bolt outlet. Seems like a downgrade to me.
For me internal corrosion is what kills them. I've gotten similar life from the last two. I thought about the "1.25 hp" model from Costco, which is cheaper, but it lacks the keyed motor access from the bottom. The only way to physically clear a jam is a put a stick in from the top to rotate the turntable.
We'll see how long the new one lasts.
This does not have a metal plate held by 2 bolts to hold the output pipe. The output of the disposal is a short threaded nipple. The output pipe has a slip nut that screws to the nipple. More like normal sink drain fittings right at the disposal.
Sounds like an older ISE. I just replaced a 20-year old one with a bad bearing with the current equivalent model, and they've changed the threaded outlet to the two-bolt outlet. Seems like a downgrade to me.
For me internal corrosion is what kills them. I've gotten similar life from the last two. I thought about the "1.25 hp" model from Costco, which is cheaper, but it lacks the keyed motor access from the bottom. The only way to physically clear a jam is a put a stick in from the top to rotate the turntable.
We'll see how long the new one lasts.
I have the lowest cost ($170 in 2008) model in ISE's Evolution line. It has a stainless steel turntable, blades, and centrifugal weights. It is quiet and has performed its function adequately for twelve years thus far. So, my conclusion is that you can't go too cheap. The Badger 5 I replaced had a rusty turntable. Eventually, the rust prevents the weights from forcing food waste against the blades and it'll just spin without doing much. I'm wondering just how much that flat disc of stainless steel costs. The lower end Badger models aren't that cheap anymore.
So - the final verdict. Took apart the drain and trap. Trap had rusty metal chunks in it. Determined someone had lost the rubber gasket for the tailpipe and just really tightened the plastic nut the holds the tailpipe to the dispisal. The nipple from the disposal was cracked along the top maybe from being overtightened.
Looked down into disposal with a flashlight and one of the cutters was no longer attached to anything so I took it out. Makes less noise now.
Obviously new disposal needed.
Looked down into disposal with a flashlight and one of the cutters was no longer attached to anything so I took it out. Makes less noise now.
Obviously new disposal needed.
The piece you are calling a cutter is not a cutter. It is basically a centrifugal weight that forces the food waste against a circular set of blades around the outer edge of the grinding chamber. Think of it as a horizontal single row cheese grater. But, yes, you need a new unit.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
The piece you are calling a cutter is not a cutter. It is basically a centrifugal weight that forces the food waste against a circular set of blades around the outer edge of the grinding chamber. Think of it as a horizontal single row cheese grater. But, yes, you need a new unit.
well initially I though I read that it was leaking by the cord(not the outlet oops)
But everytime I have to repair a garbage disposal its usually just time for a new one.. esp old crusty badgers.
The piece you are calling a cutter is not a cutter. It is basically a centrifugal weight that forces the food waste against a circular set of blades around the outer edge of the grinding chamber. Think of it as a horizontal single row cheese grater. But, yes, you need a new unit.
well initially I though I read that it was leaking by the cord(not the outlet oops)
But everytime I have to repair a garbage disposal its usually just time for a new one.. esp old crusty badgers.
