My 0w20 Experiment is suddenly finished

Triple_Se7en

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My Colorado engine was built for 5w30. I had six quarts of six year-old NAPA 0w20 hidden under the steps of the basement and when we changed flooring, I uncovered that box.

So I tried it in the Colorado as an experiment. After 1k in accumulted miles, my computer in the 3.5 engine went haywire and needed a replacement. It took five weeks to get the new computer from Florida, over 1300 miles away. Shipping and storage during COVID was to blame for the long delay.

I was at the mechanic's business garage when the new computer was downloaded and installed. Now was the time to start the engine after 5-1/2 weeks of shutdown. Upon startup, the loudest clatter erupted from the engine, similar to an engine without oil. Lasted almost five seconds. Some tweaking was done to the computer readings and truck was placed outdoors.

Wife arrived with the checkbook three hours later to pay the bill. I started the engine again and another five seconds of loud clatter occurred. So my question here is oil film strength. Is it possible to rate today's 0w20 SN Plus (soon SP) oils on film strength? Would I be wrong in saying NAPA 0w20 Synthetic has lousy film strength? That Colorado 3.5 engine is not of the old-school flat-tappet design, that it's predecessor 1999 Chevy S10 with 4.3 engine had? The 3.5 is more of a reflection of today's engine designs.

BTW..... my cold engine starts have returned to normal, just by removing the 0w20 - removing the almost new oil filter - letting the filter drain empty and reinstalling it - plus installing new oil ....Pennzoil Gold Synthetic Blend 5w30.

Have we ever discussed film strength before - here at BITOG? Wouldn't film strength tests like what I uncovered, be a good indicator on how well some of these thin 0w20s protect our engine, over the course of a long-term shutdown of 5-1/2 weeks?

Or should we expect the same engine clatter, from all 0w20 synthetic oils, after a long-term shutdown?
 
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Before the computer went haywire, did you have this startup noise?

When the computer died, what did it do?

I'm wondering if it dumped a bunch of gas into the oil and what you had was super thin oil as a result. Meaning it isn't worth drawing conclusions from. But that assumes you didn't have startup clatter before this failure--if you did, then your question would still stand.
 
I would think it has nothing to do with film strength, sounds more like lifter or oil filter bleed down, void of oil after 5.5 weeks. I suspect / almost know your 5w30 would have been the same after 5.5 weeks.

I am surprised though, I see from your list, you use premium oils in your other vehicle's but went way off script to save some money on the Colorado oil change! I kind of "get it" I have dont that on older truck at one time but that is a bit of an extreme I think but what do I know.. .*L*
 
Using the oil specified in the manual is always a good start.

I guess in addition to people wanting us to believe a hot 20 weight oil is too thin, apparently a cold one is too thin also? j/k
 
Of course, it doesn't have enough film strength or viscosity.

Even in engines supposedly designed for this wee, they need help with some thicker oil.

Now, Why did you expect it to work?

You've been around here long enough to know better.

5W30 is weak enough in this regard!

Not Valvoline's fault. The oil is manufactured to API and ILSAC Spec.
____________

I tried a similar " experiment in the early 80's with Mobil 1 - which I think was a 20 grade advertised as suitable for 30 grade applications. I installed it my '81 Chevy S-10 2.8L with 4 MT and Rochester Vara-Jet. This is back when the 2.8 made good
power and had good flowing heads.

Put it in, started it. Made racket. Drove it around the block a couple times - the engine made horrendous clacking and knocking - and power was way down.

Dumped this pricey experiment.

Back in went with the Valvoline 10W30. Restarted it all was well.

Chalk it up to lessons learned.
 
Good thing you don't have more 0W20 under the stairs
grin2.gif

Maybe Napa needs more moly or intelligent molecules (ester?).
 
Originally Posted by alarmguy
I would think it has nothing to do with film strength, sounds more like lifter or oil filter bleed down, void of oil after 5.5 weeks.


^^This is my hypothesis as well. All the oil drained down from the upper part of the engine,down into the pan. With every car I've owned, thinner oil drain down more whereas thicker oils stay up in the engine better,leaving more oil film. But like someone else ,mentioned,5.5 weeks and any oil will definitely make its way away from the upper part of the engine. Modern OHC engines I'm guessing are more prone to this as well.
 
Missed the part where trip7 did another start WITHOUT a long sit and - it still clattered excessively.

You can't just run 20 grade in "anything" spec'd for 5W30.

What are you dudes smoking around here?

Forget everything leaned in the past decade on this forum?

Jeepers!
 
Not that I think you should move again to 0W20 however, I believe some new(today's) 0W20 may not clatter in your Colorado's engine.

In 2006, my buddy sold his 2000 Civic and he gave me his left over NAPA dion 5W20. I used this 5W20 in my 1988 Accord(yes, 1988) 2.0L carb. w/340000 miles on it. The 2.0L Accord ran fine however, back in '88 the required oil was 5W30/10W30. This Accord, in my best memory DID NOT allow for 5W20 motor oil.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by alarmguy
I would think it has nothing to do with film strength, sounds more like lifter or oil filter bleed down, void of oil after 5.5 weeks.


^^This is my hypothesis as well. All the oil drained down from the upper part of the engine,down into the pan. With every car I've owned, thinner oil drain down more whereas thicker oils stay up in the engine better,leaving more oil film. But like someone else ,mentioned,5.5 weeks and any oil will definitely make its way away from the upper part of the engine. Modern OHC engines I'm guessing are more prone to this as well.

Except he had the same clatter after a 3 hour shutdown.

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Wife arrived with the checkbook three hours later to pay the bill. I started the engine again and another five seconds of loud clatter occurred.
 
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Not that I think you should move again to 0W20 however, I believe some new(today's) 0W20 may not clatter in your Colorado's engine.

In 2006, my buddy sold his 2000 Civic and he gave me his left over NAPA dion 5W20. I used this 5W20 in my 1988 Accord(yes, 1988) 2.0L carb. w/340000 miles on it. The 2.0L Accord ran fine however, back in '88 the required oil was 5W30/10W30. This Accord, in my best memory DID NOT allow for 5W20 motor oil.


I was looking at the Honda oil chart yesterday and it showed the Civic Si started at 5W30,went to 5W20,then back to 5W30,and then to 0W20
crazy2.gif


[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Not that I think you should move again to 0W20 however, I believe some new(today's) 0W20 may not clatter in your Colorado's engine.

In 2006, my buddy sold his 2000 Civic and he gave me his left over NAPA dion 5W20. I used this 5W20 in my 1988 Accord(yes, 1988) 2.0L carb. w/340000 miles on it. The 2.0L Accord ran fine however, back in '88 the required oil was 5W30/10W30. This Accord, in my best memory DID NOT allow for 5W20 motor oil.


I was looking at the Honda oil chart yesterday and it showed the Civic Si started at 5W30,went to 5W20,then back to 5W30,and then to 0W20
crazy2.gif


[Linked Image]



Crazy is right. In reality, these engines can run on multiple viscosity grades.

I think the fact that it went 5.5 weeks is the issue here. This would have been interesting if Magnetec or something similar with an ester was previously in it.
 
Not too much of an experiment and it sounds like the noise was created by the oil draining down for 5+ weeks or alternately, the ADBV did not seal properly.
 
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Not too much of an experiment and it sounds like the noise was created by the oil draining down for 5+ weeks or alternately, the ADBV did not seal properly.


This.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Not too much of an experiment and it sounds like the noise was created by the oil draining down for 5+ weeks or alternately, the ADBV did not seal properly.


This.

The anti drain back valve doesn't prevent the oil from draining from the oil passages, chain tensioner thingies, cam phasers ec. . and siphoning out of the oil filter depending on the placement of the filter.
 
Agreed sounds like the OP has a leaky ADBV, and or it just bled down.


I run the same Napa (valvoline) 0w-20 in my Ridgeline or I should say thats in the sump now.

It sat for 5 weeks as well during coronavirus lockdown.

Fired right up - nothing notable, its a belt car so there is no hydraulic tensioner to pump up there.



UD
 
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