Exhaust manifold bolts?

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May 29, 2020
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Kentucky
I will be replacing exhaust manifold gaskets soon and I'm unsure if this is something I should attempt myself, or leave it to a professional shop.

I'm worried about breaking/stripping the hardware when removing everything. I've never done any exhaust work before, but I understand breaking something here can lead to quite an adventure. I've watched a few videos and read about torching the hardware, soaking with PB Blaster or AeroKroil for a few days before doing the job, and trying to slightly tighten - then loosen to get the hardware moving and free.

I do have a can of AeroKroil that I've been saving for really tough stuff, so if I do try this myself, I imagine that's what I'll use.

I would prefer to do this job myself to save a little money, but I'd also prefer to not break half the hardware and spend an entire day just trying to drill out holes.

Advice/tips from the experienced?
 
What vehicle, engine, etc? That might help.

I've watched some of those videos too, and quite frankly I might just hand the job off no matter what! Chasing broken studs looks like no fun for a novice like me.

I suppose as a counterpart, you could always attempt it, and if you snap a bolt and it won't go, you could always put it back together and limp it to a shop. No harm in failing at something.
 
Sounds like you are mostly prepared with the oil and heat! Another huge help is to use a "light duty" electric impact (3/8" battery unit). That assures all you are applying is torque (not a side load like a ratchet) and it's in tiny moments in time, so the material can stay in the elastic deformation regime, and not yield.
 
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I removed Heddman headers my friend installed on his SBC (5.7l in an '89) using quality hardware.
The bolts' 3/8" hex edges were sharp and precise.
That's all the experience I have.

I'd spray the Kroil every other day for a week. Remember, hosing it like Niagara Falls does nothing.
Use 6 sided sockets and make sure tools fit. Cheap sockets with loose fit won't do.
Shim with tin foil to make as tight a fit as you can.
"They" always say, "Heat is your friend here". Heat and quench as you see fit.
Be prudent. If the hardware is already rusted and rounded off OR if it looks like you'll need $200 worth of slim-angled-wobblers, consider hiring the job out.
 
Originally Posted by joshuawesl
I will be replacing exhaust manifold gaskets soon and I'm unsure if this is something I should attempt myself, or leave it to a professional shop.

I'm worried about breaking/stripping the hardware when removing everything. I've never done any exhaust work before, but I understand breaking something here can lead to quite an adventure. I've watched a few videos and read about torching the hardware, soaking with PB Blaster or AeroKroil for a few days before doing the job, and trying to slightly tighten - then loosen to get the hardware moving and free.

I do have a can of AeroKroil that I've been saving for really tough stuff, so if I do try this myself, I imagine that's what I'll use.

I would prefer to do this job myself to save a little money, but I'd also prefer to not break half the hardware and spend an entire day just trying to drill out holes.

Advice/tips from the experienced?


+1 more info needed. Are you doing the manifold gaskets on the head or manifold to pipe gaskets?
 
Penetrating oil and an impact. The intermittent hammering of an impact is much less likely to break/strip something than constant torque applied via a ratchet or breaker bar.
 
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Originally Posted by joshuawesl
I will be replacing exhaust manifold gaskets soon and I'm unsure if this is something I should attempt myself, or leave it to a professional shop.

I'm worried about breaking/stripping the hardware when removing everything. I've never done any exhaust work before, but I understand breaking something here can lead to quite an adventure. I've watched a few videos and read about torching the hardware, soaking with PB Blaster or AeroKroil for a few days before doing the job, and trying to slightly tighten - then loosen to get the hardware moving and free.

I do have a can of AeroKroil that I've been saving for really tough stuff, so if I do try this myself, I imagine that's what I'll use.

I would prefer to do this job myself to save a little money, but I'd also prefer to not break half the hardware and spend an entire day just trying to drill out holes.

Advice/tips from the experienced?


Did you watch the video of the guy (posted a few weeks back here) that loosens and tightens watching to see if the threaded part is moving. And after removing and squirting with some lube put it back in tightened slightly. Move on to next.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Did you watch the video of the guy (posted a few weeks back here) that loosens and tightens watching to see if the threaded part is moving. And after removing and squirting with some lube put it back in tightened slightly. Move on to next.
That entire thread disappeared.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Did you watch the video of the guy (posted a few weeks back here) that loosens and tightens watching to see if the threaded part is moving. And after removing and squirting with some lube put it back in tightened slightly. Move on to next.

I'm not the OP here but I did watch that video and it was good. Even if the fastener doesn't turn (or doesn't look like it is turning), the back-and-forth directions often help to loosen corroded fasteners... but as he said, it takes time. Patience is key and some people have none. The time investment is far less expensive than the work of removing a broken bolt. The most surprising part of that video is the amount of rust dust that streamed out of that one bolt. Dang...
 
I have done many exhaust manifolds. I just use a ratchet and loosen. Have never broken or stripped a stud. Maybe I am lucky. Maybe the vehicles I have worked on aren't prone to major corrosion on the exhaust. Not sure but I just grip it and rip it and all has worked out over 35 years

Don
 
Keep a drill bit and an easy out near by
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Donald
Did you watch the video of the guy (posted a few weeks back here) that loosens and tightens watching to see if the threaded part is moving. And after removing and squirting with some lube put it back in tightened slightly. Move on to next.
That entire thread disappeared.


Here it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PKNCVXvZ6w
 
Originally Posted by Bighorn2500
Keep a drill bit and an easy out near by
grin.gif



I would not use a easy out on anything that is rusted in there and broke off during removal, break the easy out off and its trouble. I wouldn't recommend anyone take this on without experience at broken bolt removal.
 
Originally Posted by Bighorn2500
Keep a drill bit and an easy out near by
grin.gif

This is a waste of time. Ask me how I know. As far as I am concerned, an "easy out" is a contradiction in terms. It is a very rare vehicle that gives you enough access to the sides of an engine to use a drill and easy out, and using an impact wrench is out of the question. In some of these engine compartments you will be lucky if you have enough room to get at those bolts with a ratchet and socket.
The only good way to get a broken bolt out of an engine block is by using a mig welder and welding an extension and nut on the end of the broken bolt. The heat and electricity that goes through the broken bolt help to loosen it and it will come right out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FewfvNX08go
 
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