Moving up to 5w30. How thick is too thick?

Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
1,682
Location
Illinois
In my accord 2.0t I just can't run the recommended 0w20....just can't.

I've used magnatec and edge 5w30. No issues. Mpg is good. I've considered QSUD due to the quality at the price point, as well as it always working well for me. But I know it's on the thick side for a 5w30. Is this really an issue for my vehicle? Maybe a dumb question, but I had to ask.

Keep in mind this is a fuel diluting/shearing machine. Thanks.
 
I have the Honda Civic with the 1.5T, and my understanding that 5W-30 is unnecessary for the 1.5T unless you are running ethanol, have a tune and/or bolt-ons which have increased HP more than 50% over stock, or are regularly tracking the car. I would assume the same rules apply to the 2.0T.

I don't think 5W-30 will hurt your engine, but you're probably going to lose fuel efficiency. Just one man's thoughts.
 
1.5T Civic here. Been on 5w30 for almost 3yrs now. Magnatec latest fill. Car as well as the owner see no difference. 30 weight for the win
 
In Europe Civic Type-R comes with 2.0 engine, other than that, 1.5T is go to gas engine.
All are recommended for ACEA C3 5W30 oils, or very heavy, almost 5W40 oils. So, basically you can run with no issue much heavier oils than ILSAC-GF5 like Mobil1 5W30 EP etc.
Now, compared to W20 oils since it is turbo you might not notice mpg difference, but you might experience feeling that turbo needs bit more time to spool.
Considering that Honda DI engines are fuel diluting monsters, I would go Euro route, if out of warranty something like Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by edyvw
In Europe Civic Type-R comes with 2.0 engine, other than that, 1.5T is go to gas engine.
All are recommended for ACEA C3 5W30 oils, or very heavy, almost 5W40 oils. So, basically you can run with no issue much heavier oils than ILSAC-GF5 like Mobil1 5W30 EP etc.
Now, compared to W20 oils since it is turbo you might not notice mpg difference, but you might experience feeling that turbo needs bit more time to spool.
Considering that Honda DI engines are fuel diluting monsters, I would go Euro route, if out of warranty something like Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40.


The ACEA C3 oils didn't help with 1.5T in Europe or in China did it? Another example of "fixing' a design or manufacturing flaw with motor oil is not a solution.
 
Originally Posted by BTLew81
In my accord 2.0t I just can't run the recommended 0w20....just can't.

I've used magnatec and edge 5w30. No issues. Mpg is good. I've considered QSUD due to the quality at the price point, as well as it always working well for me. But I know it's on the thick side for a 5w30. Is this really an issue for my vehicle? Maybe a dumb question, but I had to ask.

Keep in mind this is a fuel diluting/shearing machine. Thanks.


Any 5W-30 will work fine ... even if it's on the "thicker" side of a 30 weight.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Any 5W-30 will work fine ... even if it's on the "thicker" side of a 30 weight.

+1
 
Honda has been specifying 0w20 in North America for 10 years now, but use what ever you want.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted by BTLew81
In my accord 2.0t I just can't run the recommended 0w20....just can't.

I've used magnatec and edge 5w30. No issues. Mpg is good. I've considered QSUD due to the quality at the price point, as well as it always working well for me. But I know it's on the thick side for a 5w30. Is this really an issue for my vehicle? Maybe a dumb question, but I had to ask.

Keep in mind this is a fuel diluting/shearing machine. Thanks.

Your fuel diluting machine would appreciate 11 cst@100 Quaker State or Rotella T6 Gas & Truck 5w30. It works for Illinois, even in mid-winter
 
quaker state ultimate durability 5-30 in winter + 10-30 in summer. good fake synthetic at a great price IMO. mpg loss is a myth as its minimal at best. the xtra cushion is a good thing for thing for sure
 
I doubt you realize any fuel efficiency difference between a 0w20 and a 5w30. I have been running 5 w30 10w30 and 0w40 in my Toyota's since new without any loss.but they are heavy trucks so viscous drag is a gnat on a horses but in relative terms.
 
I like the idea of running a 30 or even 40 in the turbo Hondas myself.

What OCI do you plan to run? If it were me, I would start with QSUD 5w30, and send it out for analysis after the interval.
 
The only time an oil is truly "too thick" is when the winter rating is inappropriate for the starting conditions and cannot be pumped.
 
My VW dealer put in 5W40** in my Jetta that call for a thin 0W20.
That didn't work out, car lost MPG and the turbo spooled way too slow. **Dealer service did this mistakenly, on purpose!

So I put in a thin (for a 20 grade) Motul 0W20 VW spec 508 00.
Real synthetic.

Well That was too thin. Car wouldn't rev up and make power, and it was drinking the stuff like free whisky on a Firday night. So when it was down a 1/2 litre - I added M1 0W40 FS to the full mark. Then I held my breath after "[censored]" a 50 dollar sump of real synthetic.

But much to my amazement, in a couple days the car ran phenomenal - making killer boost and power to over 5000 rpm and having good turbo spool up and decent fuel economy. This engine is very sensitive to oil grade at operating temp.

So, I say run a good 0W20 and give it a boost with some M1. The Best M1 0W40 FS.

And You know I'm a XoM "hater". But I am not a Fan boy of anything - except what works.

I would run a REAL euro PAO syn and boost it with some 0W40 FS. And don't worry about fuel dilution.

Que Sera Sera

- Ken
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by BTLew81
In my accord 2.0t I just can't run the recommended 0w20....just can't.

I've used magnatec and edge 5w30. No issues. Mpg is good. I've considered QSUD due to the quality at the price point, as well as it always working well for me. But I know it's on the thick side for a 5w30. Is this really an issue for my vehicle? Maybe a dumb question, but I had to ask.

Keep in mind this is a fuel diluting/shearing machine. Thanks.

Your fuel diluting machine would appreciate 11 cst@100 Quaker State or Rotella T6 Gas & Truck 5w30. It works for Illinois, even in mid-winter

No it won't it's a terrible design there are thicker oils specd elsewhere yet it's been recalled.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
The only time an oil is truly "too thick" is when the winter rating is inappropriate for the starting conditions and cannot be pumped.


So true. This is apples and oranges, but I have run 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, and 0w40 in my car (Toyota's 2az-fe) and noticed no difference. There is no MPG difference. There is no butt dyno difference. If you are truly worried about fuel dilution, then the best thing you can do is change your oil out early. Don't wait for 5% to pop up on the OLM.
 
Back
Top