More M1 changes
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Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
AP was a more robust oil. Due to cost and what the market will bear, I'm not sure what they are doing to make the EP claims and retain the pricing. It's a good question.
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
AP was a more robust oil. Due to cost and what the market will bear, I'm not sure what they are doing to make the EP claims and retain the pricing. It's a good question.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Yeah kinda scary. I run Amsoil SS 0W20 in my wife's 19 Pilot and follow the olm. About 7500 miles. Granted it's not a turbo but it's DI.
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Yeah kinda scary. I run Amsoil SS 0W20 in my wife's 19 Pilot and follow the olm. About 7500 miles. Granted it's not a turbo but it's DI.
I will be switching to the new formula Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 at the next oil change in my Mazda CX 5 which has the turbo GDI Skyactiv engine. I have had the car for a year this week and only put 6000 miles on it. Most of my driving these days is short trips of 10 miles round trip with a couple of trips a month of about 50 miles R/T. I figure those are pretty severe conditions so I will be doing 5000 mile OCI's.
Spending $50 or $60 a year on oil and a filter is nothing, I'd rather err on the side of caution.
Spending $50 or $60 a year on oil and a filter is nothing, I'd rather err on the side of caution.
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Nice! No I was just curious. What you'll likely find would be some buildup, but it usually doesn't impact performance in the Skyactiv engines.
Skyactivs are awesome. I'd love to see what the inside of your engine looks like. Did you use strictly Mobil 1?
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Nice! No I was just curious. What you'll likely find would be some buildup, but it usually doesn't impact performance in the Skyactiv engines.
Skyactivs are awesome. I'd love to see what the inside of your engine looks like. Did you use strictly Mobil 1?
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Nice! No I was just curious. What you'll likely find would be some buildup, but it usually doesn't impact performance in the Skyactiv engines.
Skyactivs are awesome. I'd love to see what the inside of your engine looks like. Did you use strictly Mobil 1?
For the first two oil changes, done at 7,500 and 15,000 miles, I used the Mazda brand high moly 0W-20 purchased at the dealership's parts department. After that used M1 AFE as EP wasn't available in 0W-20 in my area at the time. I've stuck with EP since then and I started using the high mileage version after the car passed its 100,000 mile mark. I've been extremely pleased with the car. I had to buy a new vehicle in 2012 after wrecking the 1989 Accord I had driven since new. Unlike that car, the Mazda never needs makeup oil added, even with my extended OCIs. It has had no significant unscheduled work done on it. I'm still even on the original brake pads. The only unscheduled thing I have done is replacement of the belt tensioner which was leaking hydraulic fluid. I did a drain and fill on the transmission with Mazda FZ fluid at around 60,000 miles and the original fluid came out still looking and smelling very clean so I don't think I'll be doing another. I've been adding RMI-25 to the coolant every 15,000 miles and I don't plan to change it. It's been so nice to have such ease of ownership. The performance is quite good for a vehicle in this price range and the fuel economy is awesome (34-35 mpg combined, 39-40 highway). After keeping the Honda for 353,000 miles I repaired or replaced almost all the major components except the engine. I said that this time my limit was going to be ten years or 150,000 miles, but I may end up going longer if this car stays as solid as it has been. I got to see the inside of my Honda's top end every 15,000 miles for its valve lash adjustments, but I hope to never have to see the inside of the Mazda's engine.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I have had good UOA results using M1 0W-20 (and that was just AFE) for 30,000 miles in my Mazda3 GDI engine (with microGreen filters). Now that MG filters are no more I'm using M1 0W-20 EP for 15,000 miles. No fears here.
Nice. Have you checked your intake valves? LOL. Just curious.
I have not and have no reason to do so. The engine idles and runs as well as it ever did and the fuel economy remains consistent. I've done 90,000 miles worth of 30,000 mile OCIs. The car has 116,000 miles on it. Mazda claims to keep the deposits under control by designing the intake vales to stay hot. I don't feel the need to look for trouble where there isn't any?
Nice! No I was just curious. What you'll likely find would be some buildup, but it usually doesn't impact performance in the Skyactiv engines.
Skyactivs are awesome. I'd love to see what the inside of your engine looks like. Did you use strictly Mobil 1?
For the first two oil changes, done at 7,500 and 15,000 miles, I used the Mazda brand high moly 0W-20 purchased at the dealership's parts department. After that used M1 AFE as EP wasn't available in 0W-20 in my area at the time. I've stuck with EP since then and I started using the high mileage version after the car passed its 100,000 mile mark. I've been extremely pleased with the car. I had to buy a new vehicle in 2012 after wrecking the 1989 Accord I had driven since new. Unlike that car, the Mazda never needs makeup oil added, even with my extended OCIs. It has had no significant unscheduled work done on it. I'm still even on the original brake pads. The only unscheduled thing I have done is replacement of the belt tensioner which was leaking hydraulic fluid. I did a drain and fill on the transmission with Mazda FZ fluid at around 60,000 miles and the original fluid came out still looking and smelling very clean so I don't think I'll be doing another. I've been adding RMI-25 to the coolant every 15,000 miles and I don't plan to change it. It's been so nice to have such ease of ownership. The performance is quite good for a vehicle in this price range and the fuel economy is awesome (34-35 mpg combined, 39-40 highway). After keeping the Honda for 353,000 miles I repaired or replaced almost all the major components except the engine. I said that this time my limit was going to be ten years or 150,000 miles, but I may end up going longer if this car stays as solid as it has been. I got to see the inside of my Honda's top end every 15,000 miles for its valve lash adjustments, but I hope to never have to see the inside of the Mazda's engine.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
The additives for SP will undergo a change, to meet new government demands and demands of automakers.
Can't wait until some of the new SP / GF6 UOAs / VOAs come in.
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by PimTac
Is Mobil 1 just taking AP and relabeling it as EP?
I was told it will not be the same product. The EP that will have the GF-6 spec will be a reformulation.
That's interesting. It seems it would be cheaper to keep the AP formulation and just relabel it. I'm sure Mobil spent a fair amount of money on AP in formulation and testing.
Of course, I'm in the simplicity camp. Have regular M1 and then EP and HM. Get rid of the rest of the product lines.
The additives for SP will undergo a change, to meet new government demands and demands of automakers.
Can't wait until some of the new SP / GF6 UOAs / VOAs come in.
Originally Posted by Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
+1 ... My Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine oil is toast by 5K miles with easy suburban driving (UO to prove it) . *Mobil and Castrol both state 20K miles OCI ONLY if your owners manual approves of it !
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
+1 ... My Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine oil is toast by 5K miles with easy suburban driving (UO to prove it) . *Mobil and Castrol both state 20K miles OCI ONLY if your owners manual approves of it !
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Well, my new 3.6L Jeep is not TDI … and the OM says do not go over one year or 10k.
If I was interested in going that long … pretty cheap to spend $5/year more for an EP oil even if the claim is higher.
Safety factors to me …
If I was interested in going that long … pretty cheap to spend $5/year more for an EP oil even if the claim is higher.
Safety factors to me …
Originally Posted by Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
I agree.
I always change my oil more often because it's cheap and easy to do. I can't remember the last time i actually broke 3k miles in any of my cars without changing the oil. Changing the oil again in my 2020 wrx in about 2 weeks and i would have only put 1200 miles at that time. In my corvette, oil gets changed every 2000-2300 miles.
It's cheap, easy to do and i feel good there's clean oil in my engines lol
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
I agree.
I always change my oil more often because it's cheap and easy to do. I can't remember the last time i actually broke 3k miles in any of my cars without changing the oil. Changing the oil again in my 2020 wrx in about 2 weeks and i would have only put 1200 miles at that time. In my corvette, oil gets changed every 2000-2300 miles.
It's cheap, easy to do and i feel good there's clean oil in my engines lol
Originally Posted by PimTac
If you haven't changed the plugs yet, is it possible to run one of those fancy fiber optic cameras inside to take a peek?
I changed the plugs at 75,000 miles. For some reason, even though Mazda Skyactivs use Iridium/Platinum plugs, the replacement interval in the manual is 75,000 miles. (Maybe due to the high compression?). I got the actual OEM NGK plugs on Rock Auto for 1/3 the price of the same plugs from online Mazda parts places. The ones I pulled did not look dirty or very worn at all. Next time I'll possibly go with the Ruthenium version just for grins.
If you haven't changed the plugs yet, is it possible to run one of those fancy fiber optic cameras inside to take a peek?
I changed the plugs at 75,000 miles. For some reason, even though Mazda Skyactivs use Iridium/Platinum plugs, the replacement interval in the manual is 75,000 miles. (Maybe due to the high compression?). I got the actual OEM NGK plugs on Rock Auto for 1/3 the price of the same plugs from online Mazda parts places. The ones I pulled did not look dirty or very worn at all. Next time I'll possibly go with the Ruthenium version just for grins.
Originally Posted by Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
I've decided, I don't really know what I don't know.
F150 3.5EB - 420,000 mi with 6-7,000 mi OCI of whatever is on sale - Original Turbos & Timing Set.
F150 2.7EB - 370,000 mi with 8,000-10,000 mi OCI of Motorcraft SB.- Original Turbos & Timing Set.
F150 5.0V8 GDI 8.5 qt Oil Capacity - 27,000 mi with 5,000 mi OCI with Castrol Magnatec - Timing Set Failure.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
People driving their TGDIs will buy the EP and extend the OCI to 20k.
Yikes!
Anyone with a Forced Induction engine or any type of GDI going more than 7500 miles on an oil change is just asking for it down the road. I know here on BITOG people debate over silly things, but I have seen with my own eyes the carbon build up and how oil breaks down in GDI motors.
The German brands that have GDI and turbo at least spec an oil better suited. Meaning their "European" formulas mainly using "heavy" 30w or using a 40w oil will help with the fuel dilution issues of these type of motors.
As for my Hyundai Sonata (2012) after the new engine installed in 2015 under warranty, When they had my engine apart I looked in it. The engine was clean per se, the valve train was spotless (Castrol Edge EP 5w30 every 5k miles) but the valves and piston tops were gunked up pretty bad.
I keep telling people. Oil is cheap. Change it more often. Cars now a days aren't as simple as they once were. Now with all the VVT, VTEC, and all that, why do you feel stretching your oil as far out as you can to save a few bucks is worth more than your engine down the road? It just boggles my mind.
Now I wait to be bashed by people that don't own a GDI car. haha. Or the ones that do, but have not had any issues yet......Let it commence.
I've decided, I don't really know what I don't know.
F150 3.5EB - 420,000 mi with 6-7,000 mi OCI of whatever is on sale - Original Turbos & Timing Set.
F150 2.7EB - 370,000 mi with 8,000-10,000 mi OCI of Motorcraft SB.- Original Turbos & Timing Set.
F150 5.0V8 GDI 8.5 qt Oil Capacity - 27,000 mi with 5,000 mi OCI with Castrol Magnatec - Timing Set Failure.