Conventional Oil Benefits

Originally Posted by Inspecktor
Reads just like the letters I used to get from the Nigerian prince who tried to send me millions of dollars.


I can still remember when those came from manual typewriters and bad copy machines …
oh wait, that was just last year...·
 
Originally Posted by MrHorspwer
This is a goldmine of great quotes!

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There is a common myth that exists about synthetic oils that say that putting a synthetic oil in an older engine can cause the oil valves to crack and cause oil to leak.


Oh my! Please think of the oil valves!

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While synthetic oil generally protects better over a longer time, it flows more smoothly than conventional mineral oils - and for an older engine, this can mean a greater chance of grinding gears.


I knew it! Synthetic engine oil causes transmission problems and grinding gears!

Ya. I got that far before I clicked off it. Written by a non car person.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Since my family has had MANY dealings with that dealership in the past, I would take anything they say with a large grain of salt! Most "conventional" motor oils are blends anyway, and very few of them are GM Dexos rated nor approved.


What a coincidence … that dealer had some ZR2's I looked at online just 10 minutes ago. Are they bad news ?

They're expensive, and they've sold relatives used cars with hidden issues for inflated prices (unfortunately I didn't get a chance to inspect them first). New car or truck, probably fine, but they're not my favorite Chevy dealer, not by a long shot.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Thought DEXOS is largely Group 3 and up. What are they using in their dealership?

That's what I meant, I'm pretty sure that there are no Dexos rated "conventional" non-synthetic blend oils. If you're going to follow the GM OLM, synthetic or at least a quality synblend is a requirement. These stealership website blurbs usually belong in the "Humor" section!
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Originally Posted by Inspecktor
Reads just like the letters I used to get from the Nigerian prince who tried to send me millions of dollars.


I can still remember when those came from manual typewriters and bad copy machines …
oh wait, that was just last year...·



Wait a minute 4wd....

In your time clay tablets were still being utilized
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Group I and II conventional base oils have a higher pressure-viscosity coefficient making them better at withstanding high shock loads. The greater shear stress in the oil film of conventional base oils also promotes greater additive response (which is why conventional is recommended for engine break-in).


How much higher is the pressure-viscosity coefficient generally? and how uch worse is the viscosity index? There's a good chance the conventional oil is thinner before the pressure is applied and still thinner after, despite a similar kv40.
 
Originally Posted by Jetronic
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Group I and II conventional base oils have a higher pressure-viscosity coefficient making them better at withstanding high shock loads. The greater shear stress in the oil film of conventional base oils also promotes greater additive response (which is why conventional is recommended for engine break-in).


How much higher is the pressure-viscosity coefficient generally? and how uch worse is the viscosity index? There's a good chance the conventional oil is thinner before the pressure is applied and still thinner after, despite a similar kv40.


Given the same KV100. Generally in the applications that want a higher P-V coefficient, thinning of the oil and high heat aren't an issue. This includes dragstrip only nitrous engines and rear gears seeing an instant hit from a car launching off a transbrake. It also works well for making engine assembly gels. Once temps start to exceed ~230*F, a group III or higher base oil is going to be more desirable, as you noted, since no amount of P-V coefficient will make up for a lack of thermal stability. Oils like Driven GP-1 and Valvoline VR1 are excellent at withstanding heavy loads in a nitrous-powered Outlaw drag car making 2000+ hp, but wouldn't last 2 laps around Daytona in a NASCAR cup engine, despite only having 1/3rd the power, just due to the extreme heat they deal with.
 
Thanks. I believe it in the best interest for all members of society to do the EXACT OPPOSITE of a stealership's recommendations and this helps me make sure I'm doing that.
 
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