If stainless was superior you would see at least some commercial mowers with SS decks.
why don't makers use Stainless Steel
- Thread starter WhyMe
- Start date
MTD of all manufacturers made a SS deck mower about 8-10 years ago. Reviews reported a deck that was too thin and too flexible.
If an OEM made a mower with a quality SS deck, I would look at it in a heart beat.
If an OEM made a mower with a quality SS deck, I would look at it in a heart beat.
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by Alfred_B
I don't think a lot of mowers get discarded due to rusted decks.
Alfred, I surmise you don't live in Hill, Rock, Gopher and Rust country.
When I called my local welding shop about my Kubota deck, he ran through all the options quickly and bored, like he was talking in his sleep. Did a superb job, too.
Your assumption would be correct in flat 1/4 acre suburban tracts.
Your Kubota deck rotted out or wore out? What time frame. Mowing over a bunch of sand will eventually damage a deck. If you use a mower a lot the deck becomes a wear item. The deck rotting out in 5 years is another issue.
Originally Posted by Alfred_B
I don't think a lot of mowers get discarded due to rusted decks.
Alfred, I surmise you don't live in Hill, Rock, Gopher and Rust country.
When I called my local welding shop about my Kubota deck, he ran through all the options quickly and bored, like he was talking in his sleep. Did a superb job, too.
Your assumption would be correct in flat 1/4 acre suburban tracts.
Your Kubota deck rotted out or wore out? What time frame. Mowing over a bunch of sand will eventually damage a deck. If you use a mower a lot the deck becomes a wear item. The deck rotting out in 5 years is another issue.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Flame me if you will, but I think plastic would be the way to go today.
Honda's Nexite deck is excellent, and so are the aluminum offerings from Toro and John Deere. If you had a stainless mower deck it would likely cost $2000 for a 21" push mower.
Steel isn't bad if it's thick enough or taken care of. The mowers I see with rusted out decks are used to mow wet grass, put away over winter with wet grass still stuck to the deck, and left outside. This creates the perfect environment for the deck to rot. If you mow the grass when it is dry, and clean the underside of the deck before storing the mower, the deck will last a long time. A lot of my customers have started doing this, and the cheap plastic wheels seem to be the first thing to get worn out and floppy on a cheap WalMart mower.
Flame me if you will, but I think plastic would be the way to go today.
Honda's Nexite deck is excellent, and so are the aluminum offerings from Toro and John Deere. If you had a stainless mower deck it would likely cost $2000 for a 21" push mower.
Steel isn't bad if it's thick enough or taken care of. The mowers I see with rusted out decks are used to mow wet grass, put away over winter with wet grass still stuck to the deck, and left outside. This creates the perfect environment for the deck to rot. If you mow the grass when it is dry, and clean the underside of the deck before storing the mower, the deck will last a long time. A lot of my customers have started doing this, and the cheap plastic wheels seem to be the first thing to get worn out and floppy on a cheap WalMart mower.
Originally Posted by tom slick
If stainless was superior you would see at least some commercial mowers with SS decks.
Unlikely you will and here's why. (many people on this thread have hit the general idea, I'm just taking it home)
The problem with corrosion ( from one who deals with it on a regular basis) is a ratio of a metal's reaction to the corroding agent(s) to the thickness with an added layer of time from any coating.
Decks are by and large stamped so those who do this want the thinnest low carbon steel they can get ( makes die sets last longer)
That sets the stage for flexing to break up the paint so water can get in then you have a very weak material that gets eaten through- add mass loss from abrasives or constant exposure from wet grass clumps and you get an accelerated rate.
You could go higher carbon/alloy and increase corrosion resistance
You could simply go thicker and increase corrosion resistance
You can go high end with CD4/stainless ( way overkill)
Goes back to price (and maybe weight depending on the individual lawn mower) to manufacture which ends with consumer cost.
That then needs to be weighed against the expected lifecycle of the mower.
A $100 shine on a $2 pair of boots isn't a wise investment but other scenarios may be.
A good alloy thick deck with a properly bonded coating would almost last forever (in machine terms)
If stainless was superior you would see at least some commercial mowers with SS decks.
Unlikely you will and here's why. (many people on this thread have hit the general idea, I'm just taking it home)
The problem with corrosion ( from one who deals with it on a regular basis) is a ratio of a metal's reaction to the corroding agent(s) to the thickness with an added layer of time from any coating.
Decks are by and large stamped so those who do this want the thinnest low carbon steel they can get ( makes die sets last longer)
That sets the stage for flexing to break up the paint so water can get in then you have a very weak material that gets eaten through- add mass loss from abrasives or constant exposure from wet grass clumps and you get an accelerated rate.
You could go higher carbon/alloy and increase corrosion resistance
You could simply go thicker and increase corrosion resistance
You can go high end with CD4/stainless ( way overkill)
Goes back to price (and maybe weight depending on the individual lawn mower) to manufacture which ends with consumer cost.
That then needs to be weighed against the expected lifecycle of the mower.
A $100 shine on a $2 pair of boots isn't a wise investment but other scenarios may be.
A good alloy thick deck with a properly bonded coating would almost last forever (in machine terms)
Yeah, jeepman, I hate "flacid" wheels. I keep mine lubricated to help them last a bit longer. If you can find wheels at Northern Tool in the right size they'll last a while because they have bearings, but they are heavy. If I keep a mower long enough I replace wheels. My current tool is an A/C electric Greenworks. It is quiet, low maintenance, and is more than adequate for my little yard. I've never had rust become a problem, even on the record holding 18 year old Craftsman mulcher I once had.
Originally Posted by hatt
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by Alfred_B
I don't think a lot of mowers get discarded due to rusted decks.
Alfred, I surmise you don't live in Hill, Rock, Gopher and Rust country.
When I called my local welding shop about my Kubota deck, he ran through all the options quickly and bored, like he was talking in his sleep. Did a superb job, too.
Your assumption would be correct in flat 1/4 acre suburban tracts.
Your Kubota deck rotted out or wore out? What time frame. Mowing over a bunch of sand will eventually damage a deck. If you use a mower a lot the deck becomes a wear item. The deck rotting out in 5 years is another issue.
Rotted out at about 13 years old. When I took it in to be welded, found out at had been welded before. Not the first owner, don't know the previous history. It good thick steel, and a new one cost more than what I paid for the whole mower.
"Wore out" would not be a problem. Parts were readily available, and while noy cheap, usually worth it.
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by Alfred_B
I don't think a lot of mowers get discarded due to rusted decks.
Alfred, I surmise you don't live in Hill, Rock, Gopher and Rust country.
When I called my local welding shop about my Kubota deck, he ran through all the options quickly and bored, like he was talking in his sleep. Did a superb job, too.
Your assumption would be correct in flat 1/4 acre suburban tracts.
Your Kubota deck rotted out or wore out? What time frame. Mowing over a bunch of sand will eventually damage a deck. If you use a mower a lot the deck becomes a wear item. The deck rotting out in 5 years is another issue.
Rotted out at about 13 years old. When I took it in to be welded, found out at had been welded before. Not the first owner, don't know the previous history. It good thick steel, and a new one cost more than what I paid for the whole mower.
"Wore out" would not be a problem. Parts were readily available, and while noy cheap, usually worth it.
What bothers me more is Toro saying to clean the mower with a hose after mowing. That will only lead to rust faster than otherwise. I try to only cut when the grass is dry.
For me, handles and wheels die long before decks give up. Given that most consumer mowers are $200-$300, if I get 10+ years out of one, I'm fine. There is another annoying stuff that I don't think I need to struggle to keep a mower for 25 years.
I have repowered a deck or two in my day. However, that was more for my amusement than any need. Although one was a pretty nice deck with ball bearing wheels. Ultimately, the handle let go on that one and someone got it for $25 with the Harbor Freight engine I put on it may 7-8 years prior.
I have repowered a deck or two in my day. However, that was more for my amusement than any need. Although one was a pretty nice deck with ball bearing wheels. Ultimately, the handle let go on that one and someone got it for $25 with the Harbor Freight engine I put on it may 7-8 years prior.
Originally Posted by javacontour
Given that most consumer mowers are $200-$300, if I get 10+ years out of one, I'm fine. There is another annoying stuff that I don't think I need to struggle to keep a mower for 25 years.
+1
I don't pay even that much for a mower because I've been using corded electrics. I have a pretty small yard and I appreciate the low maintenance and quietness of the thing. The motors seem to last right around that 10 year mark.
Given that most consumer mowers are $200-$300, if I get 10+ years out of one, I'm fine. There is another annoying stuff that I don't think I need to struggle to keep a mower for 25 years.
+1
I don't pay even that much for a mower because I've been using corded electrics. I have a pretty small yard and I appreciate the low maintenance and quietness of the thing. The motors seem to last right around that 10 year mark.
