Castrol Magnatec Lexus DI application

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So I recently purchased a 2012 Lexus IS250 premium. These are equipped with a 2.5 DI motor. About two years back I switched to Fram ultra in all of my vehicles and will do the same with this one. I'm curious if Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 would be a good choice? Looks like a very stout oil and we'll suited to my occasional city driving and weekly 45 min work commute. Opinions appreciated!
 
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As a former driver of an IS. Magnatec is a good oil, I feel application-wise Mobil 1 EP is by far the best.

What I did:

**Change PVC
** Limit short-tripping
**Warm engine up before heading out
**Driving for 1-2 hours on interstate at sanely high speeds
**Occasional Italian tune up
**Keep OCI's around 7.5 K
**PEA fuel additive on a 1/4 tank of gas (diesel mechanic got me this one)
 
Originally Posted by Speak2Mountain
As a former driver of an IS. Magnatec is a good oil, I feel application-wise Mobil 1 EP is by far the best.

What I did:

**Change PVC
** Limit short-tripping
**Warm engine up before heading out
**Driving for 1-2 hours on interstate at sanely high speeds
**Occasional Italian tune up
**Keep OCI's around 7.5 K
**PEA fuel additive on a 1/4 tank of gas (diesel mechanic got me this one)


This is great advice on everything I've read about GDI engines.

Speak2Mountain also said his engine looked very good and he used M1 EP 5w30.

If you're tempted to go boutique, I'd try Driven DI oils specifically formulated for GDI engines or HPL.
 
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
So I recently purchased a 2012 Lexus IS250 premium. These are equipped with a 2.5 DI motor. About two years back I switched to Fram ultra in all of my vehicles and will do the same with this one. I'm curious if Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 would be a good choice? Looks like a very stout oil and we'll suited to my occasional city driving and weekly 45 min work commute. Opinions appreciated!

Is this engine a light diesel?
Does the owners manual only require 0w20? If not, the mention of Dexos 2 in 5/10w30 might be the way-to-go.
 
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oil and it is a decent oil .
My pick for a GDI synthetic oil goes to Valvoline 5W20 or 5W30 Advanced Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oils due to low NOACK , very low VII's and great ad pack - suggest an OCI of no more than 5K miles using Fram Ultra oil filter..
Along with above oil my GDI engine regimen is :

*Use Top Tier Gasoline
*Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12K miles (relatively easy to do)
*Keep PCV clean (or replace regularly)
*Change spark plugs out 10K to 15K miles earlier than OM suggests
*Use Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner right before every oil change (keeps injector spray stream consistent)
*Take vehicle out on the interstate for a 20 minute drive choosing a gear which provides a steady 3.5K to 4K RPM's at least once every 3 to 4 weeks
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oil and it is a decent oil .
My pick for a GDI synthetic oil goes to Valvoline 5W20 or 5W30 Advanced Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oils due to low NOACK , very low VII's and great ad pack - suggest an OCI of no more than 5K miles using Fram Ultra oil filter..
Along with above oil my GDI engine regimen is :

*Use Top Tier Gasoline
*Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12K miles (relatively easy to do)
*Keep PCV clean (or replace regularly)
*Change spark plugs out 10K to 15K miles earlier than OM suggests
*Use Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner right before every oil change (keeps injector spray stream consistent)
*Take vehicle out on the interstate for a 20 minute drive choosing a gear which provides a steady 3.5K to 4K RPM's at least once every 3 to 4 weeks


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Good plan. Chris, 3k-4k rpms for 20 minutes straight? That will certainly get the oil and engine nice and warm, which is what you want.

Mazda found carbon deposits build up when the temps fall below 400C.
 
SAVAGEGEESE:
How is carbon build up managed and additional blow created from turbo associated with DI?

DAVE COLEMAN:
Carbon buildup on DI intake valves has two contributors. The oil itself getting on the valves, and the valves being at a temperature that promotes the formation of hard deposits.

We've dramatically reduced the oil in the intake stream compared to our last DI Turbo through several measures. First, oil blowing past turbo seals directly into the intake stream has been reduced with better turbo oil seals and lower oil pressure in the turbo itself. Actual blow-by has been reduced across the board with SKYACTIV engines by improving the roundness of the cylinder bores through improved analysis of casting, machining and assembly stresses that can slightly warp the bores. Taking this into account in the design process has given us much better blow-by performance.

Finally, the realization of the sensitivity to intake valve temperature has allowed us to design the cylinder head structure, cooling system and calibration to manage intake valve temperatures to prevent carbon buildup.

To eliminate the problem of intake valve deposits that plague current direct gasoline injection engines, the engineers at Mazda determined that deposits are formed when intake valve temperatures fall below 400 degrees C. Measures were taken so that the intake valve would operate above this point to reduce deposit formation.

One of the biggest issues with direct injection engines is a build up of deposits on the intake valve. Mazda determined that this was largely due to the intake valve being too cool. A lot of analysis went into designing the heat paths away from the valves to keep them at the proper temperature to avoid deposit formation.
 
Should of bought the 350. Intake valve deposits are a non-issue because it has Toyota's D4-S injection system, which has direct AND port injection.
 
So I've been an avid user of REDLINE fuel injector cleaner for going on 20 years. I realize the PEA won't do much of anything in a DI engine, but it will keep the injectors clean and lubricate the upper cylinders.

Appreciate the feedback. I'd like to stick with the 0w-20 as this is what Lexus recommends. Tend to side with the engineers and don't see much of any benefit going up in viscosity. I realize NOACK is a stat to really pay attention to with these engines. Already changed the PCV. Plan to do plugs( car has 85,000 miles). Also plan to walnut blast the valves when I do the plugs. Car drives great!

Does Mobil 1 list the NOACK of their oils anymore?
 
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Noack for Mobil 1:

0w20 EP - 10%
0w20 AP - 8.9%


You can still get AP via Walmart.com.
 
Thanks Buster! If I recall Magnatec is around 11%. I realize there are other things withstanding, but seems like Mobil 1 EP has very little advantage regarding NOACK? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, I'm not sure if it's mileage accrual or the fact I have a 2012, but the 2009 and prior IS cars seem to have more actual issues with carbon. I don't know of anyone with my vintage IS that have actual issues with carbon. Even if mine did it's easy to remove the upper and lower intake and clean it out. It's not nearly as bad as say some Audi's. And intake has to come off when I change the spark plugs.
 
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Why such a low OCI with the Fram Ultra? Seems superior to the OEM when looking at particle counts🤷ðŸ»â€â™‚ï¸
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oil and it is a decent oil .
My pick for a GDI synthetic oil goes to Valvoline 5W20 or 5W30 Advanced Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oils due to low NOACK , very low VII's and great ad pack - suggest an OCI of no more than 5K miles using Fram Ultra oil filter..
Along with above oil my GDI engine regimen is :

*Use Top Tier Gasoline
*Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12K miles (relatively easy to do)
*Keep PCV clean (or replace regularly)
*Change spark plugs out 10K to 15K miles earlier than OM suggests
*Use Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner right before every oil change (keeps injector spray stream consistent)
*Take vehicle out on the interstate for a 20 minute drive choosing a gear which provides a steady 3.5K to 4K RPM's at least once every 3 to 4 weeks


Why such a short OCI when using a Fram Ultra? Seems superior to OE?
 
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
Thanks Buster! If I recall Magnatec is around 11%. I realize there are other things withstanding, but seems like Mobil 1 EP has very little advantage regarding NOACK? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, I'm not sure if it's mileage accrual or the fact I have a 2012, but the 2009 and prior IS cars seem to have more actual issues with carbon. I don't know of anyone with my vintage IS that have actual issues with carbon. Even if mine did it's easy to remove the upper and lower intake and clean it out. It's not nearly as bad as say some Audi's. And intake has to come off when I change the spark plugs.


No problem. The advantage you'd have with the M1 would be oxidation stability and higher temperature protection. Otherwise, most of the synthetic 0w20's are fine.
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oil and it is a decent oil .
My pick for a GDI synthetic oil goes to Valvoline 5W20 or 5W30 Advanced Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oils due to low NOACK , very low VII's and great ad pack - suggest an OCI of no more than 5K miles using Fram Ultra oil filter..
Along with above oil my GDI engine regimen is :

*Use Top Tier Gasoline
*Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12K miles (relatively easy to do)
*Keep PCV clean (or replace regularly)
*Change spark plugs out 10K to 15K miles earlier than OM suggests
*Use Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner right before every oil change (keeps injector spray stream consistent)
*Take vehicle out on the interstate for a 20 minute drive choosing a gear which provides a steady 3.5K to 4K RPM's at least once every 3 to 4 weeks


01.gif


Good plan. Chris, 3k-4k rpms for 20 minutes straight? That will certainly get the oil and engine nice and warm, which is what you want.

Mazda found carbon deposits build up when the temps fall below 400C.




That is a very good protocol Chris D46... ^↑^^^^^^
 
Originally Posted by buster
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oil and it is a decent oil .
My pick for a GDI synthetic oil goes to Valvoline 5W20 or 5W30 Advanced Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oils due to low NOACK , very low VII's and great ad pack - suggest an OCI of no more than 5K miles using Fram Ultra oil filter..
Along with above oil my GDI engine regimen is :

*Use Top Tier Gasoline
*Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12K miles (relatively easy to do)
*Keep PCV clean (or replace regularly)
*Change spark plugs out 10K to 15K miles earlier than OM suggests
*Use Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner right before every oil change (keeps injector spray stream consistent)
*Take vehicle out on the interstate for a 20 minute drive choosing a gear which provides a steady 3.5K to 4K RPM's at least once every 3 to 4 weeks


01.gif


Good plan. Chris, 3k-4k rpms for 20 minutes straight? That will certainly get the oil and engine nice and warm, which is what you want.

Mazda found carbon deposits build up when the temps fall below 400C.

*Most of my driving is around the suburbs , so to get out on the interstate to get some steady revs up once in a while is not a bad thing . I also drive the Sonata with GDI engine in "Sport Mode" to keep the revs up a little higher and shift points higher ... The worst thing you caan do to a GDI engine is lug the engine and not get the engine hot enough to keep carbon off of the intake valves .
 
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