any battery charger/repair that can fix sulfation?

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Sep 23, 2017
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it seems like my lead acid battery is sulfated or something is wrong after 2 years of use. its a group 78 ac delco

i have a noco genius 3500 hooked up to it but i cant get it to charge to fully 100%, secondly i tried using the repair mode but i got an error.
i was told to 100% charge the battery and then run the repair mode but it only lasted for x amount of time and then went into error state.

i believe it must be sulfated or something, is there anyhing i can buy that is better then the noco that can fix it? or am i out of luck

thx
 
Did you and can you check the water level in the cells? Top off with distilled water and try to charge. The goal is to get the sulfate back into solution and off the plates. If that is unsuccessful you can add Epsom salt to each cell and charge. About a quarter teaspoon per cell.
 
Last thing to do is pour out all the liquid and replace with distilled water. Then try to charge. Be very careful the liquid is acid. You can neutralize it with baking soda. My other thught is what is the battery voltage? Under ten volts the battery probably has physical damage.
 
i dont think the voltage is that low i will check with my multi becasue i charged it up and installed it in my truck and it started up fine, maybe took a little longer cranking but that could be/was because my truck sat for a week with no starts.

however it fails the load test at the dealership and i noticed my noco genius cant get it perfectly to 100% battery and the repair mode failed
 
I had a dead battery that I ruined from from sitting too long.

When attempting to charge it with 6A or 30A, the charger read SUL (sulfated) ... but I was able to "revive" it with a 100A charger.

I'm sure the battery lifespan is diminished, but it does work now.
 
ahh kk thank for the tip, but dont alternators push high amps too? so i assume driving for a while could maybe fix it too?
 
Most cars won't push a high number of amps for a long period of time to avoid damaging the battery in normal operation.

Lead acid batteries take a long time to charge. With a typical 6 or 10 amp charger, a totally dead automotive battery will normally take several hours or more to reach about 70% charged which is called the bulk charge period. The last 30%, or the saturation period, takes about as long as the first. If your battery is fully discharged, you can drive for hours and not reach a fully saturated state of charge. That's why a lot of batteries die a young death. They spend most of their life only partially charged. This is especially true in cold weather with mostly short trips. Partially charged lead acid batteries are more prone to sulfation.

The best way I've found to try to bring back a really dead battery is a prolonged slow charge. You want one of the old school trickle chargers, not a modern electronic controlled one, for really dead batteries. Preferably one that has a setting for one or two amps. You should also get a battery hydrometer.

First, pull the caps off if they are removable and verify that all the plates are fully submerged. Then test each cell with a hydrometer and record the values. What you want to see is that each cell is fairly close to all the others. If one is significantly lower than the rest, you probably won't be able to save the battery. Then, charge at the lowest setting. Check the voltage as it is charging. As the battery charges, the voltage will begin to rise. Once (and if) it reaches about 14.6 volts with the charger on, it is fully charged. If it hasn't reached 14.6 after 24 hours, remove the charger and test again with the hydrometer. If you see some cells that have a specific gravity of 1.26 and others that are 1.20 or lower, then you have bad cells. You can try charging further but chances are it won't help. If they are all less than 1.26 and all near the same values, then put the charger back on and continue monitoring voltage.

If you have some weak cells but most of the cells have reached 1.26 specific gravity, this is the point at which it might be worthwhile to try messing with desulfation gizmos. If you do it before fully charging the battery you won't know if it's helping or not without some solid before and after numbers. A lot of the time the bad cells are shorted internally and no amount of "desulfating" is going to help.
 
If this battery is 2 years old and failing the load test shouldn't you warranty it?
 
I have a Battery Minder and it automatically does desulphation. But I have never seen it revive a battery that did not pass a battery test. It probably does do some desulfation but not enough to really fix the battery. When I talked to the company they said in some cases it can take weeks to desulfate a battery.
 
I got one of those $75 European made wonder Desulphating chargers a couple years back. I have found it useful for batteries BEFORE you notice they are getting weak and starting to struggle. I tried it on a couple fairly poor ones and after repeat cycles they never hot much if any better on my load tester.
In the end I use mine as a maintenance tool. As others have reported using it regularly a couple times a year it'll get you about another season or year out of a battery. I guess that makes it worth buying in the long run. As for fixing poor ones don't expect any miracles. They only last so long ......... I've never seen more than 7 years from any battery usually more like 5.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
If this battery is 2 years old and failing the load test shouldn't you warranty it?


sadly it was a warranty replacement and as much as i dont agree with how the warranty replacement battery has no new warranty, i am out of luck:((
 
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