Had curiousity for two other reasons:
1) I made a tool to press subframe bushings into my 82 300CD last weekend. I used moly paste on the 5/8" threaded rod, and didnt even use a washer between the cast iron pipe of my "tool" and the nut... and it spun easily and really well.
2) I have a Klann spring compressor for old MB diesel long front springs. Its the only kind that works well and safely. it must have a 20mm threaded rod in it. And it recommends moly...
Thus why my curiosity was peaked... If there's something better, its always good, especially if its something that I have, like Ni anti seize (which Im sure has graphite and moly in it too).
To add a point of clarification (I need to remember to refresh my memory before commenting on parts of very old projects)
This was about damage to the thread/nut connection ( the nut is 3-5% harder than the thread to pull tension) and under load/shaft deflection and all that.
Also the contact geometry ( different countersink angles on shafts and the hardened point ( which is why the shaft protector is softer so it will "mold' to the drill point)
We basically did oils, greases and anti-seized for performance, safety, load reduction studies.
The moly we used was a grease.
If you were using a branded product like Bostic "blue moly" which has moly but nickel and is designated as an anti galling compound- that would have been considered a nickel anti seize in our tests because we were not commissioned to test individual brands.
That could be a distinction with a difference based on our design of experiment
sorry for any confusion.