Sae 40 in my tractor? Why not?

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Jun 5, 2003
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Apple Valley, California
My 1956-7 Case. It did not sound good on multi viscosity oil. I am sure that it's 3 main bearings are worn down to the copper. It only has a bypass oil filter.It runs well on Sae30.

I have some sae40. Why not use it?

IMG_20200516_082343.jpg
 
I did not look up the numbers … but when pouring some Super Tech SAE HD30, boy did that oil look thick on an 80F day.
It's SN plus oddly enough …

Both of these are all oil …
 
Well, if SAE 40 does not calm it (climbing in flame suit now) … can of thick oil additive might help you rule out or validate the viscosity theory
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Well, if SAE 40 does not calm it (climbing in flame suit now) … can of thick oil additive might help you rule out or validate the viscosity theory

Sae 30 is good in it too. I have the 40 and need a reason to use it.
 
Originally Posted by Zaedock
I used Traveler HD40 in my old '50 8N, even when it was a bit cool out, no issues.

Is your Case a 300?

Yes. The tag is gone but it is a 56-57 case roundnose i was told that its a 311
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by Zaedock
I used Traveler HD40 in my old '50 8N, even when it was a bit cool out, no issues.

Is your Case a 300?

Yes. The tag is gone but it is a 56-57 case roundnose i was told that its a 311


That's a row crop. I believe those engines are serviceable in frame. I don't think it would take much to replace the bearings. Kind of a hack job, but better than copper bashing.
 
Originally Posted by Zaedock
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by Zaedock
I used Traveler HD40 in my old '50 8N, even when it was a bit cool out, no issues.

Is your Case a 300?

Yes. The tag is gone but it is a 56-57 case roundnose i was told that its a 311


That's a row crop. I believe those engines are serviceable in frame. I don't think it would take much to replace the bearings. Kind of a hack job, but better than copper bashing.



Looks like the whole front suspension has to come off to get the oil pan off. It has the HD adjustable front axle.
 
[censored] that would be a lot of work.

Go with the 40. I would. I don't remember how cold I've started engines with it, but I want to say around freezing. I think you'll be fine for the season.
 
Originally Posted by Zaedock
[censored] that would be a lot of work.

Go with the 40. I would. I don't remember how cold I've started engines with it, but I want to say around freezing. I think you'll be fine for the season.


Ya we do not normally get below 25f. I wont be using it on a day like that anyway.
 
If you think it needs rebuilt regardless, I'd certainly give it a try. Maybe even some 20w50. Maxlife is an A3/B3 IIRC.

Are you ever planning to rebuild or replace the engine?
 
I have a 1940 Ford 9N which is tuckered out too. I have used SAE 40 in it before to help hot oil pressure, it does help compared to SAE30. I have found 20w-50 works best for me. Helps get her cranking with its 6v system and hot oil pressure is higher compared to the SAE40.
 
Originally Posted by dlundblad
If you think it needs rebuilt regardless, I'd certainly give it a try. Maybe even some 20w50. Maxlife is an A3/B3 IIRC.

Are you ever planning to rebuild or replace the engine?

Naw. No plans for that. The trans is noisy too. It will be yard art of it takes a dump
 
Originally Posted by Lubener
I have a 1940 Ford 9N which is tuckered out too. I have used SAE 40 in it before to help hot oil pressure, it does help compared to SAE30. I have found 20w-50 works best for me. Helps get her cranking with its 6v system and hot oil pressure is higher compared to the SAE40.

I may try 20w50. Thanks!
 
I have an old IHC 1086. The manual calls for 30W oil because that is what was available when the thing was new. It goes through a bit of oil when I run 30W or 10W-30. I have been running 15W-40 for the last few years and it does not go through any oil between changes. It is also quieter. I am sure the new 15W-40 oils provide much better lubrication than the spec 30W oil from 40 years ago.
 
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