Tundra Owners Chime In

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Q: Have you, will you have your "sealed" ATF changed out?

Just bought a 14 Tundra with 103XXX on the odo, Im ready to do it...just not sure if I NEED TO
 
Well, how long do you want it to last? You don't NEED to if all you need is say 50k before you trade. But if you want more than that... or plan to tow heavy... it's probably way advised.

It's a pain but there are (were?) threads on Tundra forums on how to do it. I've been putting off doing the second one on mine but it wasn't that bad, just have to get enough PVC tubing (5/8"?) to feed fluid to it.

I did drop the pan on mine, and I think the worst fluid was in the bottom, where it wouldn't drain out. But the filter is a strainer and I don't think it needs replacing--if it does, or you find chunks in the pan, well, you've got other problems. I'm not sure if it's worth dropping the pan and disturbing the gasket on these trucks at all. If the magnets are fuzzy, what good is it to clean them--isn't the damage already done?
 
125k on my Tundra don't know if it's ever been done bought used. Will be doing drain and fills this spring summer spaced out. Thinking Max Life going in
 
Originally Posted by dave123
125k on my Tundra don't know if it's ever been done bought used. Will be doing drain and fills this spring summer spaced out. Thinking Max Life going in

I did Maxlife in mine. I don't think it made a difference. If the OP isn't aware, there are umpteen million pages about OEM fluids vs do-all (or universal) fluids. The OP might be well off reviewing those threads and seeing if they have enough aspirin to sort through it all--if they can hadle that, they can handle the fluid change.
 
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by dave123
125k on my Tundra don't know if it's ever been done bought used. Will be doing drain and fills this spring summer spaced out. Thinking Max Life going in

I did Maxlife in mine. I don't think it made a difference. If the OP isn't aware, there are umpteen million pages about OEM fluids vs do-all (or universal) fluids. The OP might be well off reviewing those threads and seeing if they have enough aspirin to sort through it all--if they can hadle that, they can handle the fluid change.
Right! Have done the same procedures on my 06 Tacoma always done drain fills I pump fluid in as I fined it easier.
 
I don't know why people call it a "sealed" transmission.
There is a drain plug in the pan, a check plug with a standpipe in the pan, and a pull plug.
It is no more "sealed" than any other transmission. just no dipstick to check the fluid level.

I do a drain and fill every 30k in all my automatics.
 
Jeff … whilst I agree … might want to just go with trans if you don't use the long word ...œ
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Jeff … whilst I agree … might want to just go with trans if you don't use the long word ...œ

You don't live in the Bay Area...
 
Owners manual recommends changing at 100K. I took my Tundra to the dealership and had them do it at 80K. Early but they had a service special at a very good price.

In the big scheme of things, it's cheap. Do it!
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Originally Posted by 4WD
Jeff … whilst I agree … might want to just go with trans if you don't use the long word ...œ

You don't live in the Bay Area...

eek.gif
 
I've changed it on several. Just measure exactly what comes out and replace that amount since there is no dipstick obviously. I change it first thing in the morning when the transmission has cold soaked.
 
I have changed my Tundra transmission fluid and I will continue to do so.

It's more complex than older transmissions, but not difficult.

I bought a Motive Products- PowerfillPro and Power Extractor- 2 Gallon (1745) to make it easier to add fluid, which goes in a port on the side.

Basically, the Toyota TSB has you do the following: drain the pan, drop the pan, change the filter, reinstall the pan, bypass the thermostat, disconnect the return line form the cooler, add 4 quarts, idle the engine (and bump it through PRND) until you've pumped out 4 quarts, shut it off, repeat that two more times.

Then, reconnect the return line and set the fluid level: warm the transmission by idling until the fluid temp is between 118 and 133F, then open the level check plug. If fluid dribbles out, let it dribble for a bit, when it stops, you're good. If nothing, or very little, dribbles out, then add 1/2 quart and check again.

More detail here: https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/5-7-tundra-diy-transmission-fluid-change.106946/

It's Toyota's own procedure for a cooler line fluid exchange. You should be confident that it's fine for your truck.

Worked fine for mine. I used AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel Efficient. Transmission shifts great.
 
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I drain it cold into a gallon container and put the same amount back in. I have been using Maxlife for a while with no problems. If you want to check the level get a simple infrared temperature meter. I try not to let it get over 60,000 miles with a drain and fill.
 
Bought my 5.7 Tundra at 108k. Immediately did all the fluids including an ATF drain and fill. I've since done 2 more drain and fills during oil changes. I do the put in what comes out method. Right about 4 qts with Maxlife with the front end of the truck on ramps.
 
Originally Posted by Speak2Mountain
Q: Have you, will you have your "sealed" ATF changed out?

Just bought a 14 Tundra with 103XXX on the odo, Im ready to do it...just not sure if I NEED TO

Rather than just replace it, why don't you take a sample and look at it. I have a 2008 RAV4 and I did just that. My conclusion was the fluid looks just fine. So I didn't change it.
A well designed transmission does not "burn up" the fluid, hence no reason to change it. A poorly designed transmission DOES over-heat the fluid and they do need changing (doesn't solve the crappy design though).
 
Originally Posted by Amkeer
I drain it cold into a gallon container and put the same amount back in. I have been using Maxlife for a while with no problems. If you want to check the level get a simple infrared temperature meter. I try not to let it get over 60,000 miles with a drain and fill.



That is what I was thinking as well. If you drain it into a bucket that has measurements on it and put the exact same amount in, then how can you go wrong? I guess this is assuming the level is correct to begin with.
 
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