Time before mileage?

[Local Color]

just wondering - 2016 Land Rover LR4 SC-V6 ---- 9200 miles


Last oil change one year ago almost to the month - but Ive only gone a 1000 miles since then (dont ask)


Should i change synthetic oil after a year with only 1000 miles??

cheers

 

[A_Harman]

no

 

[Eddie]

No. The one year rule is or should be based on a normal daily driver who drives 5 to ~ 10,000 miles per year. JMO. Ed

 

[Local Color]

thanks - so. what if next year I only drive another 1000 miles? Does Synthetic ever go bad??

 

[Gebo]

I would. You may get a lot of opinions that are just that, opinions. I change all my oils at 6 months or 3-5k miles. I'm socially inept.

There are very few "true" synthetics if you go by German standards.

 

[Local Color]

ok follow my logic - flawed or not - JLR spec is 0-40 or 0-30 - so I have to ask - I use the truck - then I don't use it for a week - So I would guess 0 weight would drain back to the CC pretty fast - a week later I start it up - no accumulator or pre-lube - is it possible that im causing a little more wear on the insides? Just curious - please don't flame me - i come from the high viscosity era...

thanks

 

[JimPghPA]

One big thing to consider, and OP did not supply, is was that 1000 miles all short trips, or instead trips that were long enough to get the oil hot enough to boil off moisture and or fuel contaminants, or a mix of both? If it was all short trips then definitely change it and the filter. If the oil has been brought up to temperatures high enough to boil off the liquid contaminants often enough, then the oil probably would be go to go for another year.

So OP, what is the answer in regard to the above operating history?

 

[Local Color]

right now most are short trips - 5 to 10 miles. Temp gauge is where it is supposed to be when I arrive - seems it should be operating temp plus more...

shoot!

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Local Color
ok follow my logic - flawed or not - JLR spec is 0-40 or 0-30 - so I have to ask - I use the truck - then I don't use it for a week - So I would guess 0 weight would drain back to the CC pretty fast - a week later I start it up - no accumulator or pre-lube - is it possible that im causing a little more wear on the insides? Just curious - please don't flame me - i come from the high viscosity era...

Well first off there is no "0 weight oil", and there in Texas the winter rating of the oil is irrelevant. The 40-grade will always be thicker than the 30-grade irrespective of the winter rating.

But both will pump just as fast as when you start the vehicle. There will be no difference.

 

[Local Color]

Thank you - help me understand "boil off moisture or fuel contaminates" even cold I suspect there are low quantity gases in the crankcase. When I start the car, and as it warms - the crankcase pressure is controlled by the pvc system. When really hot, ans underway the oil is being agitated - where does this "boiling off" take place - perhaps aerate?

thanks

 

[wings&wheels]

Originally Posted by Local Color
Thank you - help me understand "boil off moisture or fuel contaminates" even cold I suspect there are low quantity gases in the crankcase. When I start the car, and as it warms - the crankcase pressure is controlled by the pvc system. When really hot, ans underway the oil is being agitated - where does this "boiling off" take place - perhaps aerate?

thanks


As it was taught to me; Moisture will build up in the engine when it first starts, as will unburnt fuel to some extant. Then, as the oil heats up, the volatile contaminants will evaporate. As the PCV should keep the crankcase at a slight vacuum, the evaporation "boiling off" occurs at a lower temperature than it would outside of the engine.

I do annual oil changes regardless of miles, but assuming the 1,000 miles weren't done in 2 mile trips, you could stretch a bit, but I would not go much over 18 mos or so...but that's me.

Very nice vehicle, I came very close to buying a '16 LR4, wound up w/ a '17 RR HSE w/ the turbodiesel. Enjoy!