Highest Zinc Oils?

What's the application? I ask because you typically want to run the least amount of ZDDP needed for a given application. More is not always better.

As far as economical goes, Valvoline VR1 contains ~1400 ppm Zn and can be found for ~$7/qt (last I checked). Driven GP-1 contains ~1300 ppm Zn. There's the Lucas Hot Rod and Racing oils that contain 2000+ ppm Zn which is into corrosive territory.
 
Not specific but I am just interested in readily available oils like WM not boutique oils.I was planning to use redline to boost it to 1200 ppm and use in flat tappet applications sbc. 5w30 10w30 and 10w40 maybe even some HDEO.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by cknight49090
Not specific but I am just interested in readily available oils like WM not boutique oils.I was planning to use redline to boost it to 1200 ppm and use in flat tappet applications sbc. 5w30 10w30 and 10w40 maybe even some HDEO.


If you're going to do that, just use Rotella T4 15w-40 in the SBC. You'll come out better than playing backyard chemist with a supplement.
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by cknight49090
Not specific but I am just interested in readily available oils like WM not boutique oils.I was planning to use redline to boost it to 1200 ppm and use in flat tappet applications sbc. 5w30 10w30 and 10w40 maybe even some HDEO.


If you're going to do that, just use Rotella T4 15w-40 in the SBC. You'll come out better than playing backyard chemist with a supplement.



well said, a rotella 15w40 will work perfect and no guessing
 
That would be fine for warmer weather and its dino so I could use for break in but I wouldn't want to run that in everything that's why I asked for blends and full syns as well.Thanks again.
 
I had some t5 10w30 I had ordered... Probably two months ago, waiting for Amazon to ship ever since.. And I also ordered pennzoil hm 10w40...

The pennzoil was supposed to go in my 87 crown vic, and the t5 in my 64 buick wildcat.... But I did some reading about the diesel oils detergents just washing away the extra zddp...

So I switched which oil went in what and I'm very happy with the pennzoil in the Buick and the Rotella in the Ford. 🤷â€â™‚ï¸ there's a little lifter tick in the Ford that I'm hoping clears out with the extra detergent in the Rotella, and the Buick sounds quieter and smoother than the 10w30 Valvoline VR1 that was in there..

I also keep making the mistake of thinking of my Buick as a low mileage vehicle. While I have less than 80000 miles on it, and it was rebuilt less than 20,000 miles ago, I have to remind myself that all those gaskets and seals are still 12 years old at this point and I probably should start using some of the high mileage oils.

I think I'll be fine. Motorcraft filter on Ford, wix on Buick..

The point I'm trying to make is I think you'd be fine with pretty much anything you mentioned. You might want to consider a Valvoline VR1 if you're looking for a particularly high zddp content.. Mobil 1 0w40 is supposed to have over 1000 of each as well.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Milano
But I did some reading about the diesel oils detergents just washing away the extra zddp...


I'd like to hear more about the "washing away" of zddp in gasoline engines. I know several owners of old muscle cars using a HDEO motor oil who would like to hear more about this "washing away" phenomenon.
 
i have 2 '60s hi po cars, both with their original engines. Which is important for originality...
I have run Shell Rotella T 15w40, which used to be a good option. It is thought that the current blend is not as good as the stuff from years ago.

I believe you know the reason these engines need sufficient zinc is their flat tappet cams.
If you have stock springs and camshafts, Rotella or any good 10w30 should be fine.
If you are running more spring pressure, one of the newer oils specifically designed for these engines may be in order, but they are pricey.

Good luck.

Flat tappet cam oils
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by cknight49090
That would be fine for warmer weather and its dino so I could use for break in but I wouldn't want to run that in everything that's why I asked for blends and full syns as well.Thanks again.

This statement is full of ignorant statements. It must be too much to ask if something could have been learned in better than a half decade as a member here.
 
Originally Posted by cknight49090
That would be fine for warmer weather and its dino so I could use for break in but I wouldn't want to run that in everything that's why I asked for blends and full syns as well.Thanks again.


Don't use Rotella for break-in. Break-in oils are more about what they don't contain than what they do. Rotella (and all API oils) contain high amounts of detergents, friction modifiers, viscosity modifiers, and other additives that interfere with break-in. Break-in oils also contain more than double the amount of ZDDP that's in Rotella. It's also a more reactive type of ZDDP.

If you want a syn-blend with a good bit of ZDDP, Driven GP-1 is designed for older flat tappet cams. Rotella T6 5w-40 would be your shelf choice if you want a full synthetic.
 
Your not supposed to use blends or full syns for any kind of break in.I am sure car manufactures do it but that's what the engine builders say.I have no interest in paying 7 8 bucks a quart that I am going to run for 500 miles.I am not saying the oils you mentioned are bad I am saying you can find comparable for 3 times as less.I know T6 is amazing oil and after break in its one I could consider also M1 0-40.I live in Michigan and am not going to use 15w40 it was 30 degrees the other night.Its fine for you to call me ignorant but if your buying VR1 for 9 bucks a qt and running it for 1500 -2500 miles cause dino is 7.99 a qt syn is 9.99 at ADV dino and or 10 or 11 a qt for joe gibbs that's ignorant to me.When I can buy M1 for 25 5qt jug.And run it 5000 miles.I was just asking for opinions.I know the older oils where better I don't know about any washing away zinc or phos by detergents I thought they where burned off in the combustion process.I can tell you this a lot of peopleand engine builders use HDEO for break in.As long as you use the correct high pressure lube on the cam for flat tappets.And use the proper break in procedure and a good oil a long with maybe a few ounces of redline to bring the oil to 1200 ppm you will be good.I don't think it takes 10 a qt oil if you know what your doing.
 
Originally Posted by Jett Rink
Originally Posted by Milano
But I did some reading about the diesel oils detergents just washing away the extra zddp...


I'd like to hear more about the "washing away" of zddp in gasoline engines. I know several owners of old muscle cars using a HDEO motor oil who would like to hear more about this "washing away" phenomenon.

It was a very long discussion it's right here on this forum... I've been using hdeo in a Buick nailhead for 12 years now without any issues, but then again, I only put about 300 miles on it every year. I will see if I can dig it up.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Jett Rink
Originally Posted by Milano
But I did some reading about the diesel oils detergents just washing away the extra zddp...


I'd like to hear more about the "washing away" of zddp in gasoline engines. I know several owners of old muscle cars using a HDEO motor oil who would like to hear more about this "washing away" phenomenon.


I couldn't find the thread on here, I don't have my browser history saved and I'm at work right now. It would take a lot of effort. I don't even remember what I was searching for when I found the Forum thread where that was discussed. However I did find the below article which is somewhat along the lines of what I was alluding to. Hope this helps.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/zddp-when-where-what-why-how/

The article isn't exactly reaching the same conclusion, but you can see kind of where the thought process is coming from or going to.

Quote
CJ-4 rated diesel oil had a phosphorus limit of 1,200 ppm. There were no previous limits to the amount of phosphorus or sulfur in "C" rated oils. But the high level of detergents and dispersants in diesel oil still compete with the ZDDP for metal surface areas."
 
Last edited:
I haven't had a problem myself I just was asking so I would know how much redline to use if necessary to bring zinc up too 1200 ppm.I have seen a lot of cams being eaten and I can tell you it was from using the wrong oil and or improper break in wrong high pressure lube applied.These where flat tappet engines with higher lifts and spring pressure.
 
Back
Top