Replacement vapor canister vent valve

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Apr 25, 2017
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Ohio
My car is throwing a P0455 code and one of the culprits is the canister vent valve. Not interested in paying $120+ for an OEM part but the alternatives look like $20-25 versions from off-brand vendors or $60-70 from SMP or Dorman. I've used a variety of SMP parts on different cars in the past with no issues. Many of them looked 100% identical to the part I removed. Not a lot of experience with Dorman for 'electrical' parts though. For the price, I'm not afraid to try the Amazon units.

What would you go with (not counting OEM) ?
 
I went with a Dorman purge solenoid to fix a P0442 and so far its been working just fine. A 0455 is a gross (large leak) though, have you checked all your hose clamps and gas cap. If its a Dodge/Chrysler product they used some cheap plastic clamps in the evap system that rot and fall off and you never realize there was ever a clamp there.
 
Originally Posted by samven
I went with a Dorman purge solenoid to fix a P0442 and so far its been working just fine. A 0455 is a gross (large leak) though, have you checked all your hose clamps and gas cap.
I tightened the gas cap and it returned. I'm going to remove it again, look for debris, and clean up the seal. I may try and replacement gas cap first. Just looking at options.

I can't smell fuel or there's none leaking, FWIW.

Originally Posted by spasm3
what year, make, and model?

'08 G35X
 
When I had to replace the canister vent valves on our Silverado and Buick, I went with the SMP parts and have had zero problems. I personally prefer SMP/BWD over Dorman.
 
I used a Dorman blend door actuator on my Impala. Actually, I've used three. I went with AC Delco last time. I think it may be the design more than the manufacturer in my case.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Test the vent valve on the bench with a 12v battery, Should hold with power/ground applied.

I saw a video of a person doing just this. Sorry for the dumb question, but the vent valve is a 'dumb' device, correct ? It doesn't measure anything, just gets a signal from the ECU (??) to open and close ?

Two other comments related to this part and my situation....

1) After it first threw the P0455 code, I tightened the gas cap, cleared the code, but it returned after an 8-9 mile drive (on the way to work). It did this (3) times, including once after I cleaned the filler area and gas cap. All of this was with less than a 1/2 tank of fuel. After I filled up (well, not filled, but 3/4 full), I drove almost 50 miles plus a few short errands. Knock on wood, the code hasn't returned.
2) Would a faulty vent valve not allow fuel to be added sometimes ? In the 2-1/4 years that I've owned this, over ~30k miles, I can count on one hand the # of times it's happened, but while fueling up, the gas nozzle clicks off like it's full but it's nowhere near full. Waiting a minute, removing the fill nozzle, etc doesn't help or solve it. I just have to take what fuel it allowed (always plenty, such as 5-10 gallons or sometimes more).
 
Yep....The Vent Valve is either Open or Closed. Though the PCM does continuously monitor the circuit for abnormal voltages which all but eliminates the possibility of a wiring issue or an open coil in the Vent Valve.

It not taking fuel is the #1 symptom of a mechanically sticky Vent Valve.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
It not taking fuel is the #1 symptom of a mechanically sticky Vent Valve.

But not always throw a code ? As I said, it's never given a code until a week ago but over the course of ~2 years, it's happened less than 5 times, but it would stop me from filling up with fuel. Sounds like if the P0455 returns, I need to order and replace the vent valve. Sounds like SMP is the way to go too.

Thanks (to all that responded)
 
It's sticky....As in it happens sometimes. The PCM will notice it when Vacuum or Pressure doesn't decay fast enough or not at all via the Tank Pressure Sensor.
 
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